maddog05

SLP makes Pressure Plate that begins life as an OEM steel one and ten is professionally machined to reduce weight from where it counts most and disturbs reliability least ~ saves about 11 lbs.

96_Camaro_B4C

I just picked up this same kit about an hour ago. Unfortunately the box says that it is a product of China, but anyway...

One thing I noticed is that there are no holes in the edges of the PP where material was removed for balancing. I hope this means that it was within spec as assembled (as seems to be the case for some people). The box does claim that all kits are "factory tested", but I don't know what constitutes a test in their eyes. I hope it includes a spin up for balance checking...

Reading this thread, I saw that at least one person (dfrank) installed the clutch kit with no balance holes and has not noticed any vibration up to 6000 rpm. Others have bought the Duralast kit and found holes. I'm tempted to roll the dice and see how it goes. I think it is basically a symmetric part, so in theory it is possible for it to be balanced without needing to remove any material...

I also noticed that the throwout bearing is not perfectly round on the inner surface of the "spool" shape (where the fork goes); it actually comes to something of a point. I assume that is normal, I guess to keep the bearing from constantly spinning inside the fork fingers? I haven't removed my current clutch yet...

DirtyDaveW

Which of these two should be the 'front' and facing the motor?

UPDATE: NEVERMIND. I listened to someone say the top picture goes to the flywheel. WRONG! I now have a transmission fused to the block because this is BACKWARDS. The spring back on sprung hubs goes to the flywheel. Similarly, the protruding splined hub (sticks up about 1 to 1.5 inches) also goes to the flywheel. Due to being told incorrectly I will now have to cut holes in my bell housing and unbolt the pressure plate so I can get the transmission off the block.

Went out and punched a hole in the bellhousing and used my remote starter button to bump the pressure plate around for each bolt.


After all the pressure plate bolts were out, the transmission/bellhousing slipped right off.

Here's the disc and man, is it stuck on that input shaft.

This is the side some guy on the board, probably honestly trying to help but was absolutely wrong, told me to face to the motor. The side with the protruding splined hub goes to the flywheel, NOT THE FLAT SIDE!

I'm going to try;

• Slidehammer first
• If that doesn't work, I'll try a two prong puller
• If neither of those work, I guess I'll take it to a freaking machine shop

makindue

Hi ulakovic22. Can you post some photos of The Zoom? I am thinking what will I replace to mine.

Bersaglieri

I'm in the clutch hunt for a bolt on car and it seems like these stock replacements may hold up ok. [stereomandan, etc]

I called around and Autozone has a duralast clutch for $160, but they also have a LuK brand clutch for $160. Both with lifetime warranties. I'm probably going to order the LuK and see what the differences are and post them up since we already have the Duralast listed. I will also be going to Oreily's and taking a look at their clutch offering. It's $220 so I want to see if there is a difference, I'll try to take some picture there too.

Anyone got their flywheels turned or do you just buy the reman one from autozone?

-Dustin-

Bersaglieri

Saw a Duralast clutch today at Autozone, evidently they have upgraded the clutch plate with a stock style 5 spring setup. I saw in many pictures they used to be a 4 spring setup. Thought I'd pass that along.

-Dustin-

The Inferno

I have been looking at the clutchnet and the spec cluth disks. What is the difference in drive ability and durability in the sprung and solid clutch disks? Also with the Clutch net what is the difference between the EZ clutch and the Quick Lock.

DirtyDaveW

I've been using the solid hub clutch disc's (SPEC Stage 4) since 2003 and they are VERY durable. My car has alternately had 374rwhp, 500rwhp and now 600+ rwhp and the clutch has always held up fine. When new, the engagement can be a bit 'grabby' but there's techniques to diminish that. I actually bought a solid hub clutchnet disc to replace my original 6 yr old SPEC stage 4 but, due to it not being stamped with a 'front' or 'back', it was installed backwards and ruined after installation(long story with a lot of cussing). Afterwards I bought another brand new SPEC Stage 4 and life is beautiful again.

DirtyDaveW

UPDATE: It took a cutoff wheel to get off the (unfortunately new) clutchnet disc and pressure plate. What had happened to bind it so securely to the transmission was the protuding splined hub was right up against the collar that is fixed to the transmission (the Throwout Bearing slides over this) and the friction (from when I'd started the motor after the installation) apparently got it red hot and it literally welded the hub to the collar. With that all cut away, I could reuse the transmission after buying another SPEC stage 4 clutch kit. What a debacle! If you suspect yours is installed backwards based on what I've portrayed here, DO NOT LET THE MOTOR RUN as you try to analyze what is wrong! Go ahead and bite the bullet and pull it back apart.

The Inferno

DirtyDaveW that would have sucked but glad ya got it fixed. I know the stage 4's and the like can be grabby im just curious of the difference between the springed and solid since clutch net has the same disk in both types. I mainly autocross my car but it does see some drag strip time. With the stock motor (for now) it doesnt really need a stout clutch but this time around I want something better than the autozone replacement thats in it without it being to unbearable on a stock motor.

Leedogg

I just toasted my spec 4...drove on it for at least 30K hard miles. I went straight from a spec 2 to the unsprung 4- never notice much difference in the driveability. The 2 spit the springs after many miles(so did the stocker, soon after the 383). So I skipped the sprung stage 3.

Do people still run the twindisk clutches? My car now has grip, and will be seeing more and more drag duty. So since the 4 went out this weekend- I am looking at clutch options. I see that RAM makes a twin disk now, as well as McLeod. I hear good things about at the ram powergrip HD too. I have turned my F/W twice now- so I will need a flywheel- which put most options in the 7-800 range anyways- I figure for 400 more I can do a twin disk....and hopefully they would hold up longer.

3900 pound car/driver with 4500 rpm launches on sticky tires- 400+rwhp now- looking to add a 200 shot soon. Suggestions??

JP95ZM6

As to a twin lasting longer, don't count on it. I've been running McLeod ST for going on 4 years IIRC, and I have had to get it rebuilt a couple times already. I DD my car in the summer, and I have to drive stop-and-go traffic for about 2-4 miles a couple days a week.

After around 5-6k miles total with 20-30 runs at the strip typical, even my ST starts to slip at peak torque. For me, that's about 400 lb-ft. They seem to get hot and smelly more easily than the CF DF and stock clutches I've used previously - you need to be very careful not to slip them too much, or 'flare the RPMs' on launch, or after a few stop and go cycles a whiff of hot clutch smell gets out.

I suspect that the center steel disc, between the two clutch plates, is so light that it heats up quickly. On dis-assembly, the friction surfaces are not glazed, though, just worn out. Usually one of the four is significantly worse than the others. They are never down to the rivets, though. I've tried both stock setup, and carefully re-shimming with feeler gauges in vertical position, with no real difference.

It's not just my driving style or usage causing this, as I had no slipping at 90k miles on the stock clutch, with similar usage, on the stock engine. The ST just does not seem to like heavy usage in city traffic. So, keep that in mind. Other than that, I love the clutch.

The ST requires a long travel master cylinder (bigger diameter for more throw) and they warn you not to use too much travel, or the PP can be overextended. I run about 1/4 inch more pedal travel than is required for full disengagement. Maybe that extra flex of the PP spring wears it out, and clamping pressure drops. That could explain why they slip when there is still quite a bit of clutch material left on the discs.

CALL911

RAM now offers a Steel flywheel (you have in the first post of this thread that they only offer an aluminum one).

I am considering getting one, as the price is cheaper than any other aftermarket one I could find new (only $275).

Has anyone ever had or used a RAM steel flywheel before? If so, what were your thoughts?

Bersaglieri

Found an ALTO brand manual clutch, guy who sells them says they are just another China made clutch [91703]. So is a LuK look alike, same part number and all [04-134] that is being sold on ebay, seller says they are also made in China.

Sachs looks like the best option lately for a stockish replacement.

-Dustin-

Starion

I just called SPEC and their tech advised that a Stage 3+ disk will not fit the standard PP (my Valeo, or a basic stock PP). He said they are thicker. Several on here claim that disk can be mixed with a stock or Autozone OEM PP for great results. Upselling by the tech?

Can anybody verify or refute this?? Prev. posting states the thickness of the SPEC 3+ disk @ .238" while the stocker is .218".

Actually the Veleo I have could use a cleanup/resurfacing, so any minimal loss in thickness there could open it up perfectly for the "thicker" 3+ in theory...

fyi, I'm not looking to hit more than 450 tq and want the smooth street feel & engagement. Any & all input appreciated. Thanks.