Just Wondering If A 10:1 Compression Lt1 355 Able To Run A Supercharger? If So What Lbs? Of Boost
Chris

 

you might want to put this in the forced induction section. Also, you can run boost on it, you can run boost on a 13:1 engine, just the amount you are able to run is lower, or ALOT lower. You also need to list if you have any mods done to the internals of the engine. Overall, you should be able to run 10 lbs of boost, maybe need a little higher octane fuel like 100, maybe some better head gaskets, and some luck!

 

Well for right now. I have a stock crank on stock rods. But after market pistons. There Forge Probe pistons. .030 over. So what do you think about that? also IT would be cool if one of the MODERATORS on this board could move my post to FORCED INDUCTION. I didnt realize that this was not the correct area.
Chris

 

It's probably too much if you want to keep the head gaskets on it...

 

drivefast4fun has it right... you can supercharge anything, but the higher the CR, the lower the boost.

There's plenty of stock-block LT1's running around safely (at 10.5:1) with 6-8 or more psi of intercooled boost.

But clearly, if you were building a motor with boost in mind, you would not go 10:1. That being said, if you've got a well-built (i.e. forged) 10:1 engine, you can run some boost (especially with an intercooler) without any problems. Just don't go crazy with it.

 

Werd...Mike at Rocky Mountain Competetive Research has a TA with a 12:1 383 with a Vortech running 5 non intercooled psi. He makes over 600 whp. He even admits it was tricky to get the tuning done prefectly, but with perfect tuning, you wont have a problem running 10 intercooled psi.

 

Maybe go out and get some Trick Flow heads or something that will bring the compression down a little while your at it! Then throw in some good head gaskets and be set

 

I had no issues with running 6lbs of boost (non-intercooled) on my stock LT1 on pump gas; it's all in the tune.

There are a couple things you can do to lower your compression ratio without geting into the bottom end (although they should be considered a band-aid fix)

-CNC the head combustion chambers (factory is 54cc and this is not cheap)
-thicker head gasket (must use top of the line gaskets, especially in F.I.)
-new heads (not a good option, since it would be cheaper to replace the pistons)

 

I'm running 10.01 to 1. HP in sig. Also running air to air @ 8psi. I wouldn't go more then 8 psi without 100 octane. It's A good start.

 

My 9.9:1 355 at 6# runs exclusively on pump gas with conservative tuning and has zero knock retard. Runs great. Cam timing is easily as important as static CR. Keep the effective CR reasonable, and it will work.

Roger

 

Wow guys thanks for all the info. Well I will keep that in mind. I think I should just take my time. Get parts slowly. Wait for my new born baby, and have some fun. 383 Stroker with a S/C sounds like alot of fun. Again THanks for the information
Chris

 

Jemes007 on this board used to run i'm not sure if he still does a 383 11.0:1 with a D1SC 12#s on 110 octane car made 660rwhp i belive and over 700rwtrq, full wieght traped almost 138mph

 

I have a 97 WS6 T/A. The engine is stock. I have a MAF Translator for adjusting the injectors, and a Flowmaster exhaust. The 97's had a 10.3 ratio I believe. I installed the Vortech SQ-Trim kit that they engineered for that model. I took my time(about a week ) and did it right. I did have to add the Crane Electronic Trigger(required for OBDII) to get it all working right. I run pump gas and have had no problem at all with pinging or overheating. Cool days are better than hot days but that goes with any car. Call the manufactuer of your choice and tell them exactly what you want and intend to do with the car. They can help you put a good reliable system together.
Don't get cheap and do it right and you'll love it.
Jim