383 w/ t-trim
#1
383 w/ t-trim
hey guys, started mounting the vortech today and ive got a few questions.
1- ive got an ATI dampner with the keyed hub. ive got a SCAT crank and the hub didnt fit so we measued both and the is .0003 dif. so i have to get it honed. has anyone run into this before?
2- i have a mondo BOV that i need to install. i know that it goes on the pressure side, but where is the best place to put it(any pics would be great).and will i have to make custom pipes for the pressure side?
3- the MAF, can i mount this on the suck side? seeing there isnt enough room on the pressure side. will it make any difference?
thanks guys any help is appreciated.
1- ive got an ATI dampner with the keyed hub. ive got a SCAT crank and the hub didnt fit so we measued both and the is .0003 dif. so i have to get it honed. has anyone run into this before?
2- i have a mondo BOV that i need to install. i know that it goes on the pressure side, but where is the best place to put it(any pics would be great).and will i have to make custom pipes for the pressure side?
3- the MAF, can i mount this on the suck side? seeing there isnt enough room on the pressure side. will it make any difference?
thanks guys any help is appreciated.
#2
I'm not very familiar with Vortech setups, is it intercooled? The general rule of thumb is to put the bpv between the head unit and intercooler, which is where I have mine. I recommend having the maf on the pressure side. Mine is in the stock position with my ATI
#4
A 383 with a T-Trim? Unless this is going to be a race-only car I would seriously consider an intercooler! That being said it is highly advisable to run the MAF on the pressure side as it is much easier and more precise to tune when running an intercooler. Without an intercooler you don't have as much of a pressure drop to worry about and it is probably safe to run on the intake side the way that Vortech sends them. I am running a SCAT crank as well, but I just ordered the parts to do the BB hub conversion with the ATI dampner, so I cannot help you there, though when it comes to quality control I would bet on the crank being too big before betting on the dampner being too small. As for the mondo valve, I am running mine between the head unit and the intercooler as stated previously. You will need to have custom piping if you are running a mondo valve because there is no way that I am aware of to install it on the plastic piping that Vortech sends.
I am no expert by far, I have just done alot of reading and built my setup according to the suggestions that I have received here. These are the general rules of thumb that you will find in this forum, I followed them and even though I am only running an S-Trim I have not had any problems and don't expect to have any after my BB hub conversion and T-Trim installation.
I am no expert by far, I have just done alot of reading and built my setup according to the suggestions that I have received here. These are the general rules of thumb that you will find in this forum, I followed them and even though I am only running an S-Trim I have not had any problems and don't expect to have any after my BB hub conversion and T-Trim installation.
#5
thanks for the input. it seems that we will be running similar setups. except the intercooler. thats why i went with a lower compression block(8.5:1) instead of 9.0:1. and i plan on running a alky kit on it next year. i had one on my GN and it was great, i went from 17# to 23# with no knock.
how do you feel about the intercooler that vortech sells that mounts beside the intake? i think i can get a used one pretty cheap. thanks again.
how do you feel about the intercooler that vortech sells that mounts beside the intake? i think i can get a used one pretty cheap. thanks again.
#8
My ATI dampner didn't fit on my stock crank. The black coating they used had to be slightly sanded to ensure the hub mated to the crank correctly. We measured out .0004" on my setup, so I'm guessing we had the same issue.
If you are running a BOV, you will need the MAF on the pressure side, or you will have some issues. Ideally, you should run the BOV atleast 12 inches before the MAF.
Intercooler is the only way to go IMO. Alky injection is great, but can be used with an intercooler for optimal cooling. Intercooler for street use, hobbs switch for when your setup hits 10 psi +.
If you are running a BOV, you will need the MAF on the pressure side, or you will have some issues. Ideally, you should run the BOV atleast 12 inches before the MAF.
Intercooler is the only way to go IMO. Alky injection is great, but can be used with an intercooler for optimal cooling. Intercooler for street use, hobbs switch for when your setup hits 10 psi +.
#11
I'm running the 24" X 12" X 4" with 3" piping myself. Doesn't leave much room for a front bumper, but if you hit something with an FI car chances are there isn't going to be much left of the car anyway, and if the accident doesn't kill me the heart attack of what I did will!
Chas
Chas
#12
Having your ATI hub honed is pretty common, I had some taken off mine. I can't remember how much, but not much. You want a tight fit on a blown application anyway. I had to have almost 1/4" taken off the back of my crank pulley when I installed the ATI. I'm running th BB hub though so I don't know if you'll run into the same problem. Good luck, Rob.
#13
its seems that 31x12x4 is the choice on the board. i found a used one and made an offer so well see. i guess the fmic becomes the new bumper but like you said if i crash that bad im sure the fmic will be the least of my worries
rob, what is the benefit of running a bb hub? ati makes a dampner for the lt1? just curious,cause ive seen a few people use it, thanks
rob, what is the benefit of running a bb hub? ati makes a dampner for the lt1? just curious,cause ive seen a few people use it, thanks
Last edited by zl1dreams; 09-23-2008 at 06:24 PM.
#14
It's friggin huge. It can withstand alot of force, hence alot of blower guys use it. However it has a "dark side". It's pretty expensive to get it up and running. You either have to have your existing timing cover modded to fit it, or order the one from ATI. If I remember correctly the cover was $200-250. Machine work was about the same price so I opted for the one from ATI. Since you are in the mainland and not BFE like me, machine work might be cheaper. It seems like I've spent just as much in machine work for my motor as I have parts. Plus you have to have material taken off your crank pully to accomodate for the hub, or at least I did. See ya, Rob.
#15
When running a keyed hub the small block hub leaves about 1/8" between the outer edge of the key hole and the outside edge of the dampner. Obviously with the added stress of a tight SC belt this is a weak point that tends to cause the hub to crack causing a real mess. With the BB hub this area is thicker causing a far less chance of the same happening. ATI makes a BB hub and a dampner for this conversion. It does require having your timing cover milled to accept the larger BB seal. I am currently in the process of doing this conversion as I just don't feel comfortable going to the T-trim with the small hub. I am converting to a meziere water pump as well, so I needed to tear down the front end of my motor anyway.
Chas
Chas