Yeah, I'm realizing that now. Damn MSN and their evil leader.

I did some looking last night on the car about running the dual feeds. The X-over is the easy part, remove and plug. However, there a sensor on the passenger side and the arm on the throttle body that look like they'd be in the way. I'm sure I can relocate the sensor w/o a problem, but the throttle body worries me. I guess I can get a fitting w/ a shorter angle than 90* and it'd work. Any input?

Thanks

 

Hey Claude, hows it going. I used the Walbro 255lph (not the 340)with the Boost A Pump. I liked the way I could set the voltage to increase dependant on my boost levels. I had my Boost A Pump set to 4 PSI when it would kick in.

I was running small injectors and tons of fuel pressure VIA FMU.. The Walbro pump would drop volume at higher pressures. So I added a NOS 15764 (Accel) inline pump which corrected the volume drop.. I am sure I would have had no problems with the setup without the inline pump, if I went with bigger injectors, and a reprogram, lowering the line pressure... Never got the chance to do that

Good luck, and keep me up tp date on your progress.!

Kevin

 

Jack,
I sent you money thru Paypal just for your Racetronics wiring harness for my 95 Trans Am


Kevin,
Thanks for the Advice bro. I am either going to go with a 12# pulley with mabee 42# injectors or I will most likely get 50# injectors and stay with the 15# pulley I have. As I stated before I am going with the Racetronics wiring harness and will stick with my Walboro GSS340 model. (I hope everything holds up)
Kevin man...I cant thank you enough for this sweet Motor you sold me....It is real Bad AZZ!!

Thanks,
Claude

 

Just wanted to thank everyone for thier comments and advise. I did end up ordering the Wiring Harness from Racetronics for my current Walboro 255 (GSS340) pump and ordered some 50# Injectors from Combination Motorsports (These guys have been Really Great to do Business with!)

Thanks again,

 

Just wanted to let everyone know that I did recieve the Wiring harness from Racetronics and both Maldo (who did the actual install) and myself were thoroughly impressed with the Wiring harness. We had our doubts before I got the wiring harness, just like we stated in the first few posts in this thread, but He and I both thougth it was a great Quality piece after we got our hands on it. Kuddos to Racetronics!! Although I did not measure the voltage with a volt meter, I did notice an immediate difference in fuel pressure when the harness was installed. I would normally get about 36 Psi of fuel at idle and after the harness install, I am now getting 38 Psi at idle. I did run the car for a while and shut it on and off a few time to see if it was a fluke...It was not, the pressure remained at 38psi at idle. So the wiring harness does seem to work. Hopefully it will do the trick with my GSS340 Walboro intank pump when we put the blower back on my car and get it tuned.

Jack and Highlander, you were both right about the harness..Thank you

 

It's the little things that make me happy

Racetronics also sends a better chassis ground and Brass connectors for your battery hookup. Well, it works!!
Not only did my Fuel Pressure go up a little but I now notice (after 2 weeks of monitoring) that my voltage is up too. Prior to the hard-wiring and this better chassis grounds and brass connectors, I was getting 13.3 to 13.4 volts on the highway (Scanmaster reading). Now with the better chassis ground and brass battery terminals, I am getting 13.8 to 13.9volts. (And that is with my fans running all the time). I had to wiring my fans to come on all the time, when the key in turned to the on position because after the motor install, the fans would not kick on by themselves. So I would assume if I turned the fans off that would increase voltage even more, mabee to 14 volts on my scanmaster. So this was worth a ~.5 volt increase to my entire car. Since my car seemed to always be running a little less voltage than most F-Bodies I have seen, this was a worth while mod!

If you guys read this entire threat, you will see that I was a Non beliver in this little harness from Racetronics and I will be the first to admit that not Only is the hard wiring kit a Great Quality piece but it seems to do the job that they claim it does.

Thanks,
Claude

Well, I figured I would post this just incase someone else was thinking of getting this kit....NOW, I do think the kit is a quality piece that is Well Worth the price!!

 

i did not read all the posts. i noticed you already have a 255.

i have a 383, afr heads, 50msd injectors, p600b with a 15pd pulley on, 3 core inner cooler.

i got 530rwhp and 530torque. i used an inline 255 and an intake 255. dynoed it and it was perfect. did not run lean at all. (also had ed wright reprogram computer.) plenty of gas. suposely this combination is good for over 700hp.

i just stepped up to a d1x so i have to do some more mods.

hope this helps

 

How much boost are you seeing with you 15# pulley?
I would assume on a 383 with good heads, you are probably seeing around 10 psi.

Thats great to know about your dyno man....I am shooting for 475 RWHP but will be satisfied with 450 RWHP with stock heads, 9:1 compression 383 with a 2 core intercooler, cc305 cam and long tube headers and custom tuning with 50# MSD. I have a P1SC with a 15# pulley and I was told I should see around 10- 11psi of boost with this set up. Some tuners are telling me that I should see more than 500HP at the wheels but I can't see that much but I sure will be siked if it does put down that much power...

Thanks again for the input,

 

i was seeing exactly 10pds of boost with the 15lb pulley.

i have 9.2 compression.
comp cams blower cam from internetracers.

i think your dyno est. numbers are very close to waht yo will see depening on your exhaust.

my exhaust made a huge difference. i was running edelbrock headers a catco cat, flowmasters cat back and i got 430rwh.

i gain a 100rwh by going to hooker long tubes, custom 4inch exhaust, (no cats) to two 3 inch pitbull ATR mufflers. the car was all chocked up before.

i just bought a d-1x because i felt the p600b is to small for a stroker motor. im hoping know to see around 20pds of boost on the gauge and over 600rwh.

since my combination was so close to yours. if you have other q's let me know.

 

Wow...I knew an exhaust good help but Gud Deeme!!

At what Rpms did you make that kinda power 530HP and TQ?

And what are the specs of your cam?

Is it the close to mine: CC305
220/230 114LSA 510/510 lift with 1.5 Rockers

Thanks again bro..
Claude

 

5800rpm

my cam is very close to yours. i dont have the numbers in front of me.

1.6 comp cam rockers

 

Cool!! Thanks again for the info bro...
I think My exhaust should be OK for power.

I am running Coated Longtube headers with 2 High flow random cats on a 3inch coated Y-Pipe and a Borla cat back that will be 1/2 to 3/4 the way Open. So I am hoping that should work out well.

 

Good to hear you are happy with the system.

The factory battery-to-body ground is marginal at best. The battery-to-engine block ground does little to reduce the voltage drop as the motor sits on rubber mounts. The Racetronix battery- to-body ground upgrade complements the factory wire to reduce the voltage drop in the grounding system thereby benefiting the entire vehicle. This ground upgrade’s benefits increase with the demand on the electrical system.

Jack
Racetronix

 

Something similar happened to me. I had edelbrock headers, stock midpipe, single cat, and flowmaster muffler. This made 478 rwhp. With the installation of flp headers, 2 cat converters, custom single 3-inch exhaust, it climbed to 524 rwhp. It is running rich too, the dyno guy said my motor could make as much as 550 rwhp with the correct tuning. I have since added a solid intake pipe and it feels even stronger.
Anyways, the fuel system is where you don't want to skimp when making this much power. My fuel system has been overhauled from tank to rails. I run a single large external pump with braided lines. This setup has worked out great for me.

 

Jack

i just installed your dual in tank system - very nice piece - but I was wondering about the battery connections. You sent a replacement POS battery post and the two cables I assume are suppose to connect there, and you also have a black grounding wire that is suppose to go to the NEG side.

BUT, my current NEG battery wire precludes attaching the black wire to it so I intended to connect it to the NEG post on the body. Because of THAT I had to connect the two POS wires to the power junction post on the POS battery post on the body as well.

In other words, the three wires are attached at the body NOT directly to the battery.

Is that OK?