Just out of curiousity why do you think TR6's are too hot for 5psi?

 

1. Ditch the PCM4less- junk.
2. Check for vacuum leaks.
3. Do NOT hammer the car til it's fixed or you are going to add fuel to the blowers are bad for LT1's myth- when it really should be "problems are bad for blown LT1's".

Good luck.

BTW: Can someone explain rich=knock, cause that's a new one for me.

Steve

 

Not a myth more like a fact But I agree 100 % with everything else except the myth part.

 

I wouldn't necessarily call the PCM4LESS tune "junk". It just needs some tweaking (obviously). Mail order tunes are very bad ideas on blown cars. Normally, a M/O blower tune is done very rich to cover the tuner's ***, although 10:1 is a bit overboard. They should work with you to get this sorted out. If you've got log runs, dyno sheets (w/ A/F #s) or Datamaster files, send them their way. If you keep dumping that much fuel in, you can wash the rings out (been there, done that).

I would also look into getting some sort of ignition on the car. I ran a 6BTM on my old P600B setup and loved it. If nothing else, get a 6AL, anything to get enuff spark on the top end.

What kind of fuel pressure are you seeing?

 

PCM4LESS knows what they are doing, they just don't want to let you run lean for obvious reasons. Send them a log from datamaster or something and I'm sure they'll do a much better job. I've got the MSD 6BTM, and although the vacuum/boost hose isn't hooked up yet, it will be before I do any hard driving.

On a side note, everybody says to 'be conservative with timing". I'd like to see some numbers that=conservative timing. I can program myself no problem, but I don't have the experience to know what's more than likely safe and what's going to blow the motor in 5 minutes. Thanks.

Carson

 

I've taken a few of my friends up to Toronto to get their PCM4less cars fixed. Same symptoms on every car. No torque, no pickup, and runs rough. These were on NA cars with bolt-ons and a cam.

I've seen his programs and wouldn't let him tune a calculator. JMO.

 

I have those same feelings about ANY mail order tune. But then again I think 4-500 bucks for a dyno tune is an a$$raping.

 

I think the mail order tunes do OK for the typical hotcam/headers setup...but anything further than that and they usually try to go way too safe and its usually a bad thing. Yea, $400-500 for a dyno tune sucks, unless you're the person doing the tuning

 

well ive got a local guy going to dyno tune for me...but you guys should move to FL or something...dyno tuning is no where near that much...maybe for LS1's but not Lt1's...3 dynos with O2 is 70 bucks, and another 125-200 for a good tune.

 

$400 dyno tune here=you give them the car, they tune it on the dyno, regardless of how many runs or reflashes it takes to get it right. It's a good chunk of change, but its also a lot of dyno time and small changes to get it just right.

Carson