F.A.S.T users (Roadie, John), the car is running.
#1
F.A.S.T users (Roadie, John), the car is running.
Well after several months on this project I got her started up today. FAST XFI with Delteq ignition. I have not been able to rev her up very high yet to check to see if I have the the upper RPM limit Roadie was experiencing. The biggest kicker is I was having trouble getting her to idle so I loaded John Silas' progrem to see if that made a difference. I didn't realize his program was defaulted to Sequential vice Bank to Bank, well guess what it fired right up and ran like a champ in Sequential mode. I have no idea how. I'm running the XFI using the OPTI to send the signal to the Delteq and the ECU. How in the world is it running in Sequential mode? I thought you had to have a crank trigger. It runs in Bank to Bank as well, just not as responsive compared to Sequential. Any ideas? Also Roadie, John or anyone else using the FAST setup, what are you using for the crank reference angle and inductive delay. I'm still having issues getting her to idle without keeping the throttle open. Well I'll keep everyone posted as to the progress. Thanks, Rob.
Last edited by ramermanz28; 07-28-2007 at 12:59 AM.
#2
Congrats Rob! I'm gonna kick myself if you can rev to the moon w/ no problems! LOL As far as the you running in sequential THAT is phenom to say the least. You should be able to change the setting to B2B but what I've learned is after you change it you must save it or it automatically reverts back to sequential. My crank reference is 10 but I've also ran it in 6 and haven't tried 1 yet. Seems most people are either using 10 or 6 EVEN though in the help section it specifically says LT1's should run the 1 degree. I don't know how much difference one makes over the other honestly. Inductive delay I had it at 96 but since then have changed it to 48.
I'm really curious to see how the Delteq will let you rev. Long time coming and congrats again as well as the Newborn too!
Silas,
I'm really curious to see how the Delteq will let you rev. Long time coming and congrats again as well as the Newborn too!
Silas,
#3
I put in a timing reference marker and got out the old timing light and measured to figure out what to set things to. 6* BTDC and -24uSec are the settings that I measured and seem to work really well.
Make sure to do open loop at idle. Closed loop is horrible at trying to keep it running because it seems to over-adjust very quickly. Use about 28-30* of timing advance at idle and modify the cells where the car idles at in the VE table until you get AFR around 14:1 and it should smooth out.
As a note, I did have to crack the throttle blades open a bit more to get the idle speed right. There's a allen head idle adjustment screw in the throttle body that you can adjust.
Make sure to do open loop at idle. Closed loop is horrible at trying to keep it running because it seems to over-adjust very quickly. Use about 28-30* of timing advance at idle and modify the cells where the car idles at in the VE table until you get AFR around 14:1 and it should smooth out.
As a note, I did have to crack the throttle blades open a bit more to get the idle speed right. There's a allen head idle adjustment screw in the throttle body that you can adjust.
Last edited by Roadie; 08-02-2007 at 09:50 AM.
#4
Thanks Roadie. I'll change the plugs and give that a try. How do you know if the car is actually running in closed loop vs open loop. I remember Tunercat would indicate closed vs open, but what about FAST? How does your Cranking fuel and AE tables look? I know FAST wont go into closed loop if any after start fuel is being added. Have you tried running in SEFI yet? I called FAST and they said the XFI should be able to run SEFI using the OPTI signals. Thanks, Rob.
#5
Thanks Roadie. I'll change the plugs and give that a try. How do you know if the car is actually running in closed loop vs open loop. I remember Tunercat would indicate closed vs open, but what about FAST? How does your Cranking fuel and AE tables look? I know FAST wont go into closed loop if any after start fuel is being added. Have you tried running in SEFI yet? I called FAST and they said the XFI should be able to run SEFI using the OPTI signals. Thanks, Rob.
The way to tell if it's in closed loop is that it will be making adjustments. Look at O2 Corr. (%) and if it ever changes from 0 at idle, it's in closed loop.
Set your closed loop high RPM to 1500 and closed loop low rpm to 1200. Note that it's not a rpm range... That means it will go into closed loop once it hits 1500 rpm through red line. It will drop out of closed loop any time it's below 1200 rpm.
Last edited by Roadie; 08-02-2007 at 09:51 AM.
#7
Hey Roadie. I changed the plugs, set the CRA to 6*BTDC and the delay to 24uSec. It didn't seem to like those settings as much so I went back to 1* BTDC and 40uSec delay. It ran a little better. I think I may have other issues though. In order to get my A/F ratio to 14ish I had to adjust my VE table down to about 17-18. That seems too low to me, any thoughts. Also it seems to be missing at part throttle. I don't know if its fuel or spark related. Too many variables between running the FAST ecu and the Delteq. What are your VE values at an idle? I'm not gonna mess with it any more until I get my exhaust welded up maybe that will help out. Also when I'm viewing the SPARK ADVANCE vs RPM table, there isn't a floating curser like in the base fuel table and target A/F ratio. There should be a curser right? Thanks, Rob.
#8
well, my box is the old style, but i do have a floating cursor in the main spark advance table. My VE cells at idle are in the 48-55 range (it hovers over 4 cells), but any change to the injector settings will cause those numbers to change pretty drastically. I couldn't use anyone else's table and had to build my own based on what the car wants.
Misfires will report a rich condition, so try bumping up the fuel and see if it runs smoother. Also try and figure out which cylinder is missing. A good IR temp gun is great for that, otherwise you'll be pulling plugs to check.
Misfires will report a rich condition, so try bumping up the fuel and see if it runs smoother. Also try and figure out which cylinder is missing. A good IR temp gun is great for that, otherwise you'll be pulling plugs to check.
Last edited by Roadie; 08-05-2007 at 10:16 AM.
#9
Hey Roadie, could you share with me how you made your timing reference marker (picture if at all possible). I need to verify my actual timing is the same as my programmed timing. That way I can adjust the CRA until they are the same value. After talking to Lonnie he made me realize just how important this is and that all my other tables will be affected if my actual vs. programmed timing is way off. I'm still trying to get the car to idle right. You say use 28-30* advance, Lonnie said use 36-40*. I have no clue as to which one my car will like better. Thanks, Rob.
#10
well, for your base tune, go with less timing... 383 will want a few degrees less than a 355. I started with 30 and moved up to 33 without any pinging.
A friend had an opti delete plate and i just bent and drilled a piece of flat aluminum to to bolt to the block and come up really close in location to where it is on the delete plate. I don't have any pics and that's a REALLY tight area to see in my car.
The biggest thing is that you need to have a solid marker of sort so you can figure out the inductive delay (since that varies timing by rpm). I wouldn't worry about having the marker dead on actual timing since you'll tune to where it doesn't gain anymore power with any added timing... the easiest thing to do for this may be to tape a piece of flat aluminum to the oil pan and read it from below while on jack stands.
Stock GM PCMs use an opti reference angle of 0* to go with their timing table. Using a different reference angle means the entire table is offset... If you create your base spark table from a stock PCM's table, then 0* would be a good reference angle to use.
A friend had an opti delete plate and i just bent and drilled a piece of flat aluminum to to bolt to the block and come up really close in location to where it is on the delete plate. I don't have any pics and that's a REALLY tight area to see in my car.
The biggest thing is that you need to have a solid marker of sort so you can figure out the inductive delay (since that varies timing by rpm). I wouldn't worry about having the marker dead on actual timing since you'll tune to where it doesn't gain anymore power with any added timing... the easiest thing to do for this may be to tape a piece of flat aluminum to the oil pan and read it from below while on jack stands.
Stock GM PCMs use an opti reference angle of 0* to go with their timing table. Using a different reference angle means the entire table is offset... If you create your base spark table from a stock PCM's table, then 0* would be a good reference angle to use.
#11
so can the delteq be used in conjuction with the F.A.S.T. standalone i read all of this thread but got nothing solid saying that it will function w/o problems my car wont be seeing more then 6500 rpm for now, what rev limiter is the delteq throwing out that lets it not work correctly with the fast.any hel pwould be great as i am using the 1st version of FAST along with my delteq
#12
not to hijack the thread or anything but i had a question for yall
i need all my base calibrations. how did yall figure out the base calibrations? hopefully here in 2 weeks il be at the point to start the car or at least mess with the xfi.
i need all my base calibrations. how did yall figure out the base calibrations? hopefully here in 2 weeks il be at the point to start the car or at least mess with the xfi.
#13
Did you buy your XFI from a vendor? They should've supplied a base tune to at least get the car started and then you go from there.
As for the base calibrations once you get the XFI the help files will specifically address how to calibrate the TPS, MAP, IAC, ATS, CTS, etc. Pretty straight forward and will require a little math for the TPS. You'll just have to go to "view" then scroll down to "system configuration" then "sensor calib"...and just proceed w/ one sensor at a time.
As for the base calibrations once you get the XFI the help files will specifically address how to calibrate the TPS, MAP, IAC, ATS, CTS, etc. Pretty straight forward and will require a little math for the TPS. You'll just have to go to "view" then scroll down to "system configuration" then "sensor calib"...and just proceed w/ one sensor at a time.
Last edited by The SRZ; 01-18-2008 at 02:55 AM.
#14
Sorry I haven't posted any further results on the car. Ever since my daughter was born the project has been put on hold. My car was able to run in both sequential and batch mode. It definately idles better in sequential. My setup is different than most peoples because I totally ripped out my factory harness and am running all FAST harness'. I got a harness from JC at Delteq to adapt the FAST harness to the OPTI box. While I had it running it didnt seem to experience any of the REV limits some others have experienced. Right now the car isn't running because I need to replace the battery and gas tank. Not sure when the project will resume, but I will be more than happy to try and answer any questions you may have. As far as Base calibrations I got a Base tune from the dealer I bought the XFI from and tweaked it from there. I recommend getting the tuning DVD that FAST offers, it's pretty informative and will walk you through alot of the tuning files. Please feel free to ask for help. Good Luck, Rob.