FI SBC buildup (long)
#1
FI SBC buildup (long)
Questions...
This will probably never happen due to budget restraints, but I figured I'd ask.
Say I wanted to build a Dart LittleM (4.155x3.75) up with reverse dome pistons and 18' Brodix heads. Hopefully yeilding 9.5:1 or so. Add a single plane intake, adapter and Accufab 90mm TB. Bolton's would be stuff like 1 7/8 or 1 7/8-2" step headers, EWP, Elec. vacuum pump, etc. All on a 95 Z28 w/ suspension, motor plate, blah blah. FAST.. Basically a complete build.
Anyway, my reasoning for the 18' heads was to get killer flow and keep boost around 6psi on the street/strip. This will be a racecar....but who wants a race car you cant have on the street right?! Am I wrong to think this is a good line of thinking? Keeping it low on boost and on pump gas?
Now, on the block. The Little M can come with a 4" or 4.125. The original thought was a 434 (4" stroke) but with FI pistons I was worried about piston material and rod length. I will be using a 6" rod. So, offhand, could I get away with 3.875" or 4" with a long rod? I forget the deck height of a Dart block. Ok, on the bore...will I run into cooling or weird detonation issues with a 4.155" bore? The max on the block is 4.185" So, what are my real options...383, 396, 406, 414 (3.875" stroke), 408 (4" stroke), 434, etc, etc.
Thats a lot of crap...but I want to get everyones opinions...
This will probably never happen due to budget restraints, but I figured I'd ask.
Say I wanted to build a Dart LittleM (4.155x3.75) up with reverse dome pistons and 18' Brodix heads. Hopefully yeilding 9.5:1 or so. Add a single plane intake, adapter and Accufab 90mm TB. Bolton's would be stuff like 1 7/8 or 1 7/8-2" step headers, EWP, Elec. vacuum pump, etc. All on a 95 Z28 w/ suspension, motor plate, blah blah. FAST.. Basically a complete build.
Anyway, my reasoning for the 18' heads was to get killer flow and keep boost around 6psi on the street/strip. This will be a racecar....but who wants a race car you cant have on the street right?! Am I wrong to think this is a good line of thinking? Keeping it low on boost and on pump gas?
Now, on the block. The Little M can come with a 4" or 4.125. The original thought was a 434 (4" stroke) but with FI pistons I was worried about piston material and rod length. I will be using a 6" rod. So, offhand, could I get away with 3.875" or 4" with a long rod? I forget the deck height of a Dart block. Ok, on the bore...will I run into cooling or weird detonation issues with a 4.155" bore? The max on the block is 4.185" So, what are my real options...383, 396, 406, 414 (3.875" stroke), 408 (4" stroke), 434, etc, etc.
Thats a lot of crap...but I want to get everyones opinions...
#2
Why waste the cash on a dart block if you are only going to run 6psi? I cannot get over this fixation everyone has with maintaining a "street car" and building these outrageously fast cars.
Anywho Im sure youve got your reasons.
I have a similar build to what you describe. Dart block, 406ci. 6" rods and reverse dome pistons.
I ordered JE pistons with lowered ringlands for 6" rods. The wrist pin was in the lower rings and they provided me rails with my rings to fit into the pistons for the ring to sit on. Ive heard people talk about not wanting to do it but it was a catalog offered piston from JE so I figure if they offer it, must be safe right? I havent totally tested it yet as Ive only made two passes down the track with my new turbo (2 seasons ago I had a vortech and put a whole season on the engine combo and it was fine down to an 11.28 @ 120mph).
It seems to be holding up just fine so far.
The block was notched for the rod clearance.
As far as cooling goes, I have modified my cooling system. I run AFR 190 heads (yes small but Ive had em for 4 years and 3 engine combos too) and I had a hole drilled and tapped in between the center exhaust valves and ran a line from there up to my water pump. Extra water in there can help cool the heads since it gets warm due to the exhaust valve ports being close to each other.
It seems to be running alright so far.
Id still like to ask why you want to run low boost and pump gas though. If you are going to the lengths you are to make it safe, why not crank it up to 25psi, add some C16 and run some low 9's??
Good luck.
Feel free to check out my website for more information and photos.
www.hustonstreetracing.com'
PS, its the blue thirdgen car on there too.
Anywho Im sure youve got your reasons.
I have a similar build to what you describe. Dart block, 406ci. 6" rods and reverse dome pistons.
I ordered JE pistons with lowered ringlands for 6" rods. The wrist pin was in the lower rings and they provided me rails with my rings to fit into the pistons for the ring to sit on. Ive heard people talk about not wanting to do it but it was a catalog offered piston from JE so I figure if they offer it, must be safe right? I havent totally tested it yet as Ive only made two passes down the track with my new turbo (2 seasons ago I had a vortech and put a whole season on the engine combo and it was fine down to an 11.28 @ 120mph).
It seems to be holding up just fine so far.
The block was notched for the rod clearance.
As far as cooling goes, I have modified my cooling system. I run AFR 190 heads (yes small but Ive had em for 4 years and 3 engine combos too) and I had a hole drilled and tapped in between the center exhaust valves and ran a line from there up to my water pump. Extra water in there can help cool the heads since it gets warm due to the exhaust valve ports being close to each other.
It seems to be running alright so far.
Id still like to ask why you want to run low boost and pump gas though. If you are going to the lengths you are to make it safe, why not crank it up to 25psi, add some C16 and run some low 9's??
Good luck.
Feel free to check out my website for more information and photos.
www.hustonstreetracing.com'
PS, its the blue thirdgen car on there too.
#3
seen your car MANY times. LOVE the buildup, in fact, its a major influence to the car I would like to build.
The reason for low boost is pump gas. I mean, if I'm building a small block, and I'm buying a good set of heads, etc. Why not get the best? I can always switch pullies, change the tune, and run leaded C16 with 20+lbs of boost. I'd rather go overkill once then build a 383 or 396 LT1 w/ a D1 and want more later.
you bring up a good point though. What about a more dedicated boost set up pushing something like 15-20lbs with an ATI F1? Stick with 18' heads if money allows but, likely get a set of Track1's for less money. Same intake and exhaust stuff....but just drop the pulley and have an easy/slow car on the street. I kinda want to have my cake and eat it too...ya know?
What are your recomendations? Specifically.
The reason for low boost is pump gas. I mean, if I'm building a small block, and I'm buying a good set of heads, etc. Why not get the best? I can always switch pullies, change the tune, and run leaded C16 with 20+lbs of boost. I'd rather go overkill once then build a 383 or 396 LT1 w/ a D1 and want more later.
you bring up a good point though. What about a more dedicated boost set up pushing something like 15-20lbs with an ATI F1? Stick with 18' heads if money allows but, likely get a set of Track1's for less money. Same intake and exhaust stuff....but just drop the pulley and have an easy/slow car on the street. I kinda want to have my cake and eat it too...ya know?
What are your recomendations? Specifically.
#4
You have to figure out exactly what you want to do first.
I can have my cake and eat it too. Its called a wastegate. I had my spring backed off for my first run and it made only 5 psi of boost. ( i was admittedly learning the car and didnt know what boost it would make). It ran 10.9 and I was happy with that. I can drive the car on the street on 5psi of boost. Its pretty responsive and I will have ot be careful I dont turn the tires at stop lights.
But I can turn that spring down on the track and who knows how fast it is going to go.
Best of both worlds.
I can have my cake and eat it too. Its called a wastegate. I had my spring backed off for my first run and it made only 5 psi of boost. ( i was admittedly learning the car and didnt know what boost it would make). It ran 10.9 and I was happy with that. I can drive the car on the street on 5psi of boost. Its pretty responsive and I will have ot be careful I dont turn the tires at stop lights.
But I can turn that spring down on the track and who knows how fast it is going to go.
Best of both worlds.
#5
I believe that if you go to the 18* heads, you'll still need offset rockers and lifters. Those heads will flow some unreal numbers NA, and will only get better under pressure. The LT1 block is proven to 1100hp with a supercharger, and with a turbo it shoulld be able to produce a couple hundred more safely since there is no added harmonic stress on the rotating assy. So unless you want to make over 1100 crank hp, the Dart black may not be necessary. Are you going SC or Turbo? A turbo setup is much more versatile than a SC one, although a little more expensive. And on-the-fly boost control that a turbo gives is awsome. Just for comparison's sake: Rod Raymer and Kenny Duttweiler have built 9 and 8-sec StageII V6 turbo buicks that will idle smoothly and still get reasonable MPG and manners on the street (and have full interior). If a 4.5L V6 in a 3800lb car can do this, surely a 6.0+L V8 can. In fact, I plan on setting up my LT1 like the GN and take off from there.
Pump gas isn't much of a limiter anymore with the advent of alcohol, water, and propane injection kits. I can get 24 psi boost on 93 octane/alky injection on the GN (8.5:1 CR) w/o knock; can only get 17psi on pump gas alone.
If you're set on getting another block, then wait a few more months. A new Motown SB capable of 454cu in is on its way from WP (read about and saw it in the latest CHP mag). From page 16:
"The World Products Motown cast-iron block has been available for some time, but with Fel-Pro's new 4.25-inch-bore head gasket, World claims you can now build a standard-deck-height 454ci small-block with a 4.25-inch bore and 4.00-inch stroke." (Then they have a picture of it from the SEMA show)
That would be great to have in a 4th Gen.
Just my $.02, good luck to ya.
Pump gas isn't much of a limiter anymore with the advent of alcohol, water, and propane injection kits. I can get 24 psi boost on 93 octane/alky injection on the GN (8.5:1 CR) w/o knock; can only get 17psi on pump gas alone.
If you're set on getting another block, then wait a few more months. A new Motown SB capable of 454cu in is on its way from WP (read about and saw it in the latest CHP mag). From page 16:
"The World Products Motown cast-iron block has been available for some time, but with Fel-Pro's new 4.25-inch-bore head gasket, World claims you can now build a standard-deck-height 454ci small-block with a 4.25-inch bore and 4.00-inch stroke." (Then they have a picture of it from the SEMA show)
That would be great to have in a 4th Gen.
Just my $.02, good luck to ya.
#6
****, i'd like to have a T88 too....problem is...I dont have the fab skills you do (headers, etc.)
so with a blower....what are your recomendations? everyone?
A. Big badass motor, small FI
B. Big badass FI, strong but smaller motor
so with a blower....what are your recomendations? everyone?
A. Big badass motor, small FI
B. Big badass FI, strong but smaller motor
#7
Re: FI SBC buildup (long)
Originally posted by ryan2
Questions...
This will probably never happen due to budget restraints, but I figured I'd ask.
Questions...
This will probably never happen due to budget restraints, but I figured I'd ask.
It's cool to dream big, but might as well be realistic.
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