Originally Posted by Purple Poncho

I agree with the above. Listen to the guys that have done this and take internet experts with a grain of salt.

If I had one recommendation it would be to not go into debt for this project. Use debt for education, a house, etc. Not something you will be tinkering with and sometimes fighting with all the while shelling xxx$/month on.

If I were you I'd use what you have.
Stock crank. Buy Scat H beams 432$ . Buy pistons. The JEs are 684$ from the above site and will be about 9.5-1 with stock CC heads. Not sure what CC you have. The Icon pistons will be ~9.75-1 and cost 470$.
For the fuel system you can do a double pumper or just add an inline pump 130$ if you want to save money. 80# injector 400$ from Racetronix.
Ebay intercooler kit probably 250$. Meth kit 680$ from Alkycontrol. A wideband is highly recommended and tuning software/laptop.

Go with whatever ring package come with the pistons. Hellfire rings are probably overkill. Pulley the blower to max out just before the peak RPM of your cam. Boost will come in faster and harder.

So Scat/JE/Walbro inline pump/injectors/intercooler/meth you are at $2575 no tax. shipping or labour or if you can find better prices then my quick internet searches.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by Orr89rocz

I will have 80 lbs siemens for sale in about a week or so...just ordered 115's so i wont need em. 60's would fit your build, dual pumps or inline as suggested would be "best" but not absolutely necessary. hot wired or boost a pump type single walbro may feed it. Should feed 500whp no problem but the 600 level would be pushing it. Need to keep pressure low to have a shot as walbro 255's output and any pump for that matter goes down with high pressure. Single 340lph drop in should also do well and support that power. 500-600whp is a lot of power in a car, so with your bottom end, keep rpms lower and you will have a good running car on a budget. 500whp in good chassis is a mid 10 second car


Also find out the duration and lift numbers on that cam...you really dont need to go to big here and dont want to be revving super high with stock crank and those hp levels. Dont think it will be a problem but its safer to keep it lower rpm wise. Less stresses on things. Simple 220's deg duration with about 10-12 deg split for the blower is about what i'd run. cc305 cam is like that.

Again 500-600 doesnt take much to get to with good heads/intake and some boost.

Originally Posted by undecidedfbody

Heads were hand ported by james antonette in franklin square
190's 65cc's as per his build sheet

He has the stock gm head gaskets AI sends you in there valve train kit. He also has 1.6's and 987 CC springs.

When I had this heads cam intake setup on my 383 it had fel pro hp 1074 head gaskets and my compression was 11.9 to 1

Just putting it out there for some further advice

Andrew can't wait to see this thing move

Originally Posted by alliance12364

Im running a single, in tank walbro 255lph. the cam I have Is a cc lt1 extreme blower cam or somethin like that lol. my heads wer off my buddys 383. There stock heads but a machine shop overhauled them. Idk exactly whats done to them machining wise but I was told there just about as good as the trickflows summit sells. As for power adder, vortech t trim. I want the power to last a long time but the whole problem with building it to last is.... I dont have the time with work and all, so id have to pay a place to do it. And between parts and labor... I dont have the money flowing good enuf for that yet. So... Here are the options I have come to... Take out a loan first lol, I buy pistons, rings and rods for my 355 (stock crank), or buy a shortblock already set up for boost, or buy my friends shortblock. Both 383's and forged. If I get for boost I can drop it in no problem. but there a pending sale on it already. If I get my friends, id have to sit on it till christmas and buy different pistons..... What u guys think is best option

Originally Posted by 97WS6SCharged

Either of those cams should work fine for what you're doing. One thing I would do would be to spring for the big block hub conversion.

Originally Posted by DirtyDaveW

What's the "Big Block hub Conversion"

Originally Posted by Kevin Blown 95 TA

If you have a piston with a known or measured compression height that you could mock up with bearings, crank, & rod, you could then measure it. Unless your engine is blueprinted, you might have to check more than one cylinder, though, cause they might not all be the same.