Hey, did you get the boost gauge hooked up to verify boost level?

Also, what timing and A/F you running?

 

Edit... just talk to Travis: A/F right around 12.0 and timing only @ 17 degrees which is low for an LTx. I told him to turn it up to 24-26 degrees (but start @ 21/22 degrees and see how it reacts as he goes up). 91 octane doesn't help... but let's see what it does.

 

I've got a pretty major fuel leak at the fuel injector again. Hopefully I can get it fixed up tomorrow and see what it does with 10psi. Does anyone have a compressor map for this particular turbo? I'm betting it'll put down some impressive numbers from 10-15psi. I just don't know how a 9.2:1 compression motor will like 15psi and 91 octane.

 

Fixed the leak permanently on the drivers side, the passenger side hasn't given me any trouble yet, but I might as well take the time to fix it too, that way I don't have to worry about it.

So with 10psi and about 21%u00BA timing on 91 octane it put down 600hp 605ft/lbs with a somewhat rich AFR. I don't remember exactly what it was, but I think another 30-50hp could be found just from leaning it out and adding a little more advance. I'm not going to push it though as I want to keep it on the safe side.

I kinda want to through the 15psi spring in it and see if it'll break 700, but I also don't want to push my luck. Does anyone know where I can get a compressor map for this turbo. I want to see where its most efficient.

 

Nice... you only went up 3 psi, but up 4 degrees of timing and picked up 100rwhp. The key is timing I don't have a compressor map, but you could email turbonetics and see what they have.

 

Drove it home today, about 60 miles and it ran great. We're not running the MAF in the tune, so there is a little hesitation off idle. Hopefully later I add that in. I've got to hook up the gauges before I start driving it on a regular basis though.

 

Nice Travis! I am looking forward to pics of the car/engine bay shots. Can you post the dyno graphs?

 

Looking good so far

 

I'm thinking the cam is somewhat on the small side for this setup. Should I order the next size up spring or do a boost controller? I want to run about 10 psi on the street, but at least 15+ at the track. Spring changes aren't exactly the easiest with this setup. I'd have to run race gas with anything over 10psi, so I don't want to run the 15psi spring on the street.

I'll get some pics of the car up later. It was raining when I took it down to get tuned a few weeks ago so its pretty dirty. I'll give it a quick wash before I upload. Also I still have the front bumper cover off cause I have to remake the intercooler tubing.

 

Cam is a little small, but I would get the 1.15A/r turbine housing first before swapping out the cam (make sure the .96 a/r isnt choking your setup with those heads).

looks like you had boost creeping up to 14psi right when you made peak power, but the powerband was already done at that point.

If you plan on running 10psi on the street, then keep the current spring. Us a boost controller to pull it up to 15psi for the track.

 

What boost controller do you recommend? I probably wouldn't do an electrical one. I'm uploading pics right now.

 

Hallman makes a good manual boost controller. there are so many out there.

 

Here are some pics of the dirty car.

http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...turbo%20build/





I don't know what to do with the MAF. I want to run one to get rid of the sight hesitation off idle, but I think it'll be maxed out if I put it in a 3" or even a 3.5" housing. Its in a 4" housing right now, which throws off the MAF readings and creates turbulence coming from a 3" intake tube and then back down to a 3.5" elbow, so its turned off and I'm running a speed density tune.

As you can see, the intercooler tubing had to be modified since I had to lower the radiator and stand it up vertical. I can remake it and gain about 3-4" of ground clearance at the nose. The downpipe and wastegate tube are the next lowest pieces, but its about the same as my tranny pan and torque arm crossmember, so hopefully it won't be an issue. Also don't mind the duct tape on the drivers side valve cover. Its just temporarily holding my oil fill cap in.

 

Have you tried running SD without the maf housing at all? I would imagine the pipe expanding from 3" to 4" and then contracting to 3.5" is causing some turbulence inside the intake tract.

 

I've got to order some tubing, but yeah I was going to try that out.