I'm running the MAF on the pressure side of the blower but it seems to be getting coated in oil that is being drawn out of the valve cover to the intake tube. I've installed a catch can but this isn't helping at all.


Car acts like the blower is non existent - now running slower times than before the blower was installed.

I've made 3 good passes with the blower and that's it. By the time I get out to the track the car is running like dog crap and I have to take the intake ducting apart and clean the MAF to get it to run right.

I'm using a catch can but I think maybe my design is faulty - it catches oil but damn this is ridiculous. Thinking about venting the crankcase to the atmosphere again - only this causes leaks because there's no way to suck the crankcase pressure out of the motor without it being plumbed into the blower.

I know that the ultimate fix is to re ring the car so that i'm not getting excessive blowby but it's the end of the year and I would like to make at least 1 more 11 second pass. As it stands now i'm on the verge of running 13's with a stupid blower as opposed to 12.3's NA???????

Starting to go back to my old ways that NA cars rule and power adder cars suck.

 

I moved my MAF to the non pressure side. I left the PCV system completely stock except I routed the passenger side breather hose over to the intake side of the blower and capped the throttle body. I know this sounds simple but it works like a charm. When I used to vent to atmosphere I got foul odors at stoplights. And if you keep your crankcase under vacuum when your out of boost the rings seal much better.

These cars have a lot of blowby even with new rings. Thats why they put such a big PCV system on them. Then you can make some money by selling your catch can. Hope this helps.

 

But I thought the PCV had to be routed so that it's before the MAF? So, if you moved the MAF down below, doesn't the PCV have to be routed into the blower intake PRE-MAF? Or do you have yours venting on the intake side after the MAF?

 

My PCV hose and valve is in its stock location. It gets its vacuum from the front of the intake manifold and pulls blowby gases from the lifter valley on the driver side of the engine. The PCV valve itself will not allow boost to escape the manifold. It has a one way check valve. I tested my PCV system and it doesn't leak boost at all. Generally your in vacuum about 80% of the time. The other 20% the breather hose on the passenger side relieves pressure from the crankcase and routes it to the non pressure side of the supercharger.

Obviously the PCV system needs to be after the MAF so the engine doesn't consume unmetered air. If you have any question about the stock routing see shoebox's website.

Even the procharger manual tells us to relocate the stock PCV system. I'll tell you from experience that there is not enough vacuum in the non pressure side to alleviate blowby. I have a brand new engine and it still has blowby with the way procharger suggests running the PCV system. Hope this helps.

Simple but effective

 

I ran my pcv in the stock locations. I simply added a catch can like yourself but put a check valve in line with the pcv. That way when you are just cruising around and not making boost your pcv sys works normally and when you make boost the valve closes

 

This really is not necessary because the stock pcv valve will not leak boost. I thought about putting a brake booster check valve in line with the pcv valve but decided that it was not robust enough to operate in the acidic environment the blowby creates. And I couldn't find one that would flow as much cfm as the stock pcv valve.

 

So your keeping the hose from the passenger valve cover plumbed directly into the side of the throttle body and that's sufficient for crankcase evac?

 

The pcv valve shouldn't leak boost but if and when it does the supecharger will try to pressurize the crankcase in addition to the additional blowby created by the engine under boost. This is a sure way to create oil leaks and blow oil out of the breather. PCV valves were not designed to positively seal, many just happen to. At the very least the pcv valve needs to removed and thoroughly cleaned or replaced if the system is to be plumbed different than the instructions.
As a side note, plumbing the breather into the inlet of the s/c does not generally cause any trouble as there should only be vapor in that hose and not oil flow. If there is a large amount of oil the engine is probably in rough shape.

 

No. The passenger side breather hose runs to the inlet of the supercharger and you must plug the hole on the throttle body. The pcv hose is the one that is left stock. The pcv hose is the one that attaches to the driver side of the intake manifold.

 

The 93-97 P1SC procharger manual is not very clear on this subject and could probably use updating. There simply is not enough vacuum in the inlet of the procharger to effectively eliminate all the harmful gases. When I had mine plumbed the way the manual suggests my oil was dark black after 3000 miles. Now I can go 5000 miles and it still looks good. I agree that the PCV valve is not designed to perform these duties but it is a very durable one way check valve. When and if it fails I will know it quickly because my boost guage will tell me.

By the way I think procharger makes a wonderful kit and product. And the tech service has been good too. I wish my company "Delta" was doing so well.

 

Ok gotcha now - cause that didn't work last night. Really getting frustrated with the supercharger route - I know in time that it will get worked out but this is one of the reasons I like NA cars - problems like this.

The power from SC is hard to just walk away from now tho.

 

Heres an old school test for you guys, pull the breather fitting out of the pass valve cover at idle, if you see or feel alot of air puffing out of there then you engine is in bad shape. A little bit of air is okay, if its puffing out and you can feel it easily you have poor ring seal or cracked ring lands. If you engine is rebuilt then the ring gaps are probably too big. In either case a leakdown test is in order. On my rebuilt motor with 20K on it I just run the breather hose behind the motor and zero oil comes out of it. There is no air either maybe so under boost but none at idle. Prior to my rebuild there was a nice breeze coming out of it.

 

I'm sure i'm in bad shape - I just want it to last until I get 3 or 4 more good runs in then it's pulled.


I puff smoke more than Cheech and Chong together - just rolls out from that breather.

 

I removed my vortech from my '94 z-28 last year and went back to n/a. When I removed the hose connected to the inlet there was oil present. Looked like it was coming from the breather, R.H. valve cover hose to inlet side of supercharger.
After converting back to n/a I tested the old school way by pulling the hose loose from ther valve cover and did not notice blowby or smoke at idle or reving the engine with no load. This car has oil residue around the breather hose where it goes into the valve cover, don't see any evidence of oil in the hose at the other end where it goes into the throttle body. I am wondering if the engine is normal to have some oil around the breather connection at the valve cover or if the engine has sustained damage due to the vortech? Is it normal to find oil at the supercharger as I did or was that a sign of the begining of larger problems? I do not recall seeing oil in this area until shortly before I decided to remove the supercharger, I was not sure if the seal in the supercharger was leaking from the gear drive or blowby was causing the oil presense. Anyone else see this condition? Car runs well and seems to have plenty of power, I figure if it was badly damaged I would see noticeable blowby and smoke coming out of the breather.

 

A little bit of oil always seems present in those hoses and the TB. Its the puffing of blow-bye that is a good sign that the rings are dead. If that hose or the dipstick is being blow out than thats another good sign. I'm glad that post comes up in searches, its a good reference for those who aren't sure.

BTW my friend recently had a 496 with a Vortech YSi built up by a shop in PA and he thought his dipstick was vibrating out, I felt bad telling him what the real problem was. The rings were glased and it had bad oil pressure from the first time he cranked it over(10-50psi). The shop wanted $1300 to tear it down and rebuild it. He had 300 miles on it and had spent spent over $10,000 on having them build it plus buying the blower through them.