MikeGyver's Turbo 383 Build.
#62
Re: MikeGyver's Turbo 383 Build.
531tq, 528hp.
It looks like the tq stopped abruptly at 4500rpm where fuel pressure plummeted, and the hp consequently continued to climb slowly due to the flattened tq above 4500 and increasing rpm.
It looks like the tq stopped abruptly at 4500rpm where fuel pressure plummeted, and the hp consequently continued to climb slowly due to the flattened tq above 4500 and increasing rpm.
![](https://i51.tinypic.com/14dd17m.jpg)
Last edited by MikeGyver; 02-25-2011 at 07:50 PM.
#63
Re: MikeGyver's Turbo 383 Build.
Alright it's about that time of year again to get a turbo back on my car.
Here's what's hopefully going on this weekend and I will solve the fuel issue too
![](http://i55.tinypic.com/2ywxz80.jpg)
I'll you guys posted.
Here's what's hopefully going on this weekend and I will solve the fuel issue too
![](http://i55.tinypic.com/2ywxz80.jpg)
I'll you guys posted.
#65
Re: MikeGyver's Turbo 383 Build.
I put the turbo on last Sunday. It's a 76mm ball bearing P-trim with a .96 A/R housing. I've been making good progress on a new 2 bar tune, it's sooo much better that the old 1bar tune that it's not even funny. The transition into boost is really smooth and is even faster with the bigger compressor wheel; so much more fun to rail around town. Only running 7psi for now until I get the 2nd walbro pump in.
I'll try and get some pics of the installed turbo and piping tomorrow.
I'll try and get some pics of the installed turbo and piping tomorrow.
Last edited by MikeGyver; 04-10-2011 at 12:17 AM.
#66
Re: MikeGyver's Turbo 383 Build.
I'm a turbo diesel guy so forgive my ignorance but whats the deal with Trims? We just measure wheel sizes and exhaust housing sizes, so I'm trying to understand what trim stands for? Like a turbo in diesel land would measure in metric - 62/71/14 62mm intake/71mm exhaust/14cmsq exhaust housing. I run a 76/84/26 as my "bottom" turbo in a compound setup, which sounds similar in size to what your running.
Ball bearing stuff is pretty nice, far better than the junk Holsets I run![lol](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
-Dustin-
Ball bearing stuff is pretty nice, far better than the junk Holsets I run
![lol](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
-Dustin-
#67
Re: MikeGyver's Turbo 383 Build.
#68
Re: MikeGyver's Turbo 383 Build.
New pipes and turbo are on the car now. I put a hanger on the pipe that connects to the turbo's compressor. It sits on top of the panhard bar's crossbrace, so the turbo will never sag; it worked out really well.
I destroyed my 3.23 rear axle a couple weeks ago and swapped in a GU6 3.42 axle from a 6 speed.
also got a set of polished cast aluminum valve covers from Ebay for $70, no more leaks there and they look awesome.
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I destroyed my 3.23 rear axle a couple weeks ago and swapped in a GU6 3.42 axle from a 6 speed.
![Smilie](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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Last edited by MikeGyver; 04-10-2011 at 06:31 PM.
#70
Re: MikeGyver's Turbo 383 Build.
Ok, update time. I just recently finished my homemade Boost a Pump that I've been working on ![Big Grin](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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To see the details, go to this thread
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=810985
Tonight I made a wiring harness and wired in the fuel pump voltage booster. So far everything is working great. I ran 12AWG wires (with a new fuel pump relay) straight from the power/ground terminals up by the battery. The larger wiring made a big difference to the pump's running voltage; ~13.9v at idle (neglecting the .4v diode drop of the boost a pump in non-boosting mode). I haven't run a vacuum hose to the boost sensor yet, but the 10cc syringe shown in the picture makes >15psi and you can hear the fuel pump rev up as you depress it. Here's a couple pics.
![](http://i52.tinypic.com/akk4zl.jpg)
Setting the voltage limit with the pump running. I set it to 17v max (for now), and 13.5v minimum all the time. The solder & heatshrink joints in this picture will be replaced with automotive Weatherpack connectors.
![](http://i53.tinypic.com/2i09nnq.jpg)
Mounting location.
I'll probably throw a 10psi spring in the wastegate and run around for a while to test it out. Eventually I'll add a second Walbro and trigger it off a Hobbs switch since 1 overdriven Walbro probably won't reach my HP goal.
![Big Grin](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Name: DSC02960.jpg
Views: 159
Size: 108.1 KB](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/attachments/forced-induction-10/15103d1501282285-mikegyvers-turbo-383-build-dsc02960.jpg)
![Name: DSC02957.jpg
Views: 178
Size: 165.6 KB](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/attachments/forced-induction-10/15104d1501282285-mikegyvers-turbo-383-build-dsc02957.jpg)
To see the details, go to this thread
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=810985
Tonight I made a wiring harness and wired in the fuel pump voltage booster. So far everything is working great. I ran 12AWG wires (with a new fuel pump relay) straight from the power/ground terminals up by the battery. The larger wiring made a big difference to the pump's running voltage; ~13.9v at idle (neglecting the .4v diode drop of the boost a pump in non-boosting mode). I haven't run a vacuum hose to the boost sensor yet, but the 10cc syringe shown in the picture makes >15psi and you can hear the fuel pump rev up as you depress it. Here's a couple pics.
![](http://i52.tinypic.com/akk4zl.jpg)
Setting the voltage limit with the pump running. I set it to 17v max (for now), and 13.5v minimum all the time. The solder & heatshrink joints in this picture will be replaced with automotive Weatherpack connectors.
![](http://i53.tinypic.com/2i09nnq.jpg)
Mounting location.
I'll probably throw a 10psi spring in the wastegate and run around for a while to test it out. Eventually I'll add a second Walbro and trigger it off a Hobbs switch since 1 overdriven Walbro probably won't reach my HP goal.
Last edited by MikeGyver; 05-10-2011 at 05:49 AM.
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