97s10ondubs

I think that's the one he has it was converted over to use a fuel rail and the sheetmetal elbow made to use a TB instead of the carb. i know some N/A guys did that.

DirtyDaveW

on manifolds such as this (Vortec or SBC in original designation), are there modifications that must be made to the actual angle of the intake to head facing? Or is it merely the bolt holes/angle of bolt holes and covering up the distributor hole? BTW, rather than cover that up, I'd be tempted to just put a cut off distributor in there so I could more easily replace the cam/pump drive gear w/o having to pull the intake off.

roguedriver

I guess the "Jr." part could have been mis spoken. Its not a converted vic jr. manifold though. It is a Victor EFI with their fuel rail kit. I'll get the number off the manifold when i get home to be sure. It's definitly not a super vic.

Ken

roguedriver

Ok. Department of corrections.... So the manifold is a Victor EFI. Part number 29785, not a Victor jr EFI. In escessence though, it's basically a vic jr. The super victor is a bit of a different animal as it is said to run in even the higher rpm range. I'd like to see a before and after with a super vic myself. Wondering if you'd see the same or more of an increase but starting at a higher rpm range. Hope that clears up any confusion. Sorry...

Ken R.

jakesz28

Thats a good test. The thing to remember is this is a 6 speed car and most of you are running a auto with a stall. So any torque power loss below your stall speed would never be noticed. If he was running a 3600 to 4000 stall, which is very streetable in a overdrive lock up tranny you would not see any loss on a chassis dyno.

reamo04

nice thing about me having an LS motor now, they make one already for it! lol

jetjoe

Thanks for the clarification. Any chance you can detail exactly what you did to get it to bolt up?

reamo04

you have to match the holes up, block the distributor hole, and get rid of the thermostat part

now, theres several ways to do these

distrubutor hole
a) weld it shut and have it smoothed out
b) put a freeze plug in it

bolt holes
a) weld up the old lt1 heads for the bolt holes and have them drilled/tapped for the SBC/vortec bolt holes -best idea so you can use any old school intake
b) weld up the current holes on the single plane, and drill for the lt1 holes, works ok, just atke the lt1 intake, hold it so everything is lined up with the single plane and clamp them together, drill the holes using the lt1 as a base.

thermostat coolant part
a) cap off the thermostat hole
b) machine it off

hope this helps some people out

4SFEDZ

this is interesting, you lost alot down low tho. i wounder how this would affect launching off a tbrake around 3500-4k?

jrutland

Hey Rogue,

Can you tell a difference on the street in everyday driving?

Thanks,

Jerry

jakesz28

You wouldn't notice any thing leaving on the transbrake.

roguedriver

You'd never notice it on the launch if your launching above 3500rpm anyway. I launch at around 4500. As far as on the street, the fact that it's a little down on power there is almost a plus if your getting on it. Why have a bunch of power there when your only gonna be in that range only from the get go. Give it a chance to hook. I shred the tires anyway, so it doesn't matter. Normally drivability is fine. The only reason power is down there though is because i have it tuned richer in those lower rpm's vs my old setup and also have a lot of timing pulled down low. If i ran the tune where it was in the lower rpms, it would probably be about matched up power wise below 4000rpm, maybe even a bit higher now.

Ken R.

firetird

Awesome post! Too bad I never got to use the intake

bkrepindy

Where is the MAP sensor mounted?

roguedriver

I mounted it to the bottom side of the fuel rail on the passenger side and connected it to a vac port on the elbow.

Ken R.