ok here are the stats on the rebuild motor in the z28 i am buying with this handle a procharger on her
she is a 94 z28 6 speed

what other mods will i need before i boost it

Engine Modifications.


2 bolt block bored .030 over.
Forged SRP Pistons
Forged Sir "I" Beam Connecting Rods.
Stock Crank ground .010
GM847 Camshaft
Cloyes Double Roller Timing Chain
95' optispark conversion
Melling 155 oil pump
Melling IS-55E Oil Pump Drive
GM White Spring
GM 3/4" Pickup Tube
Electric Water Pump
160 Degree Thermostat
52mm BBK Throttle Body
Powder Coated Intake
Crome Valve Covers
Crome Oil Pan
Hooker Longtubes
Single 3" Exhaust
LT4 Knock Module
---------------------------------------------------------------

Head Modifications.

LE2 Heads 270/190
Comp 977 Springs
2.0 Ferrea Intake 1.56 Ferrea Exhaust Valves
Ti Retainers
10 degree locks
Hi-Tech Pushrods 5/16
Comp R Lifters
Comp Pro Magnum 7/16 rockers
Hi-Tech 7/16 studs
---------------------------------------------------------------

Car Modifications and Tuning Software.

Poly Urethane Engine Mounts
Transmission Mounts
Spec Stage 4 Clutch with Kevlar Disc
Blue LED Gauges
Chrome Oil Caps
Lokar Aluminum Oil Dipstick and Tube
Taylor Spark Plug Wires
Champion Plugs
BMR Drive Shaft Safety Loop
Tuner Cat with Pentium III 800mhz laptop
Tuned by Madz28
Interior sheet metal sprayed with 3M Undercoating
UMI Lower Control Arms, Powder coated black.
UMI Panhard Rod, Powder coated black.
UMI Tubular Subframe Connectors, Powder coated black.

Thanks fir your time

Alaskan94z28

 

What Procharger? How much boost?

 

p-1sc at 8 psi
might goto the 10-14 range

 

You should do a "search" as to what most people are doing for boost but
here's a few thoughts:
There is a huge difference between 8 lbs. boost and 14 lbs. and what the engine will take. Most times, well tuned stock LT1s will do OK on 8 lbs. boost but not always. For you, possible changes are: the cam (not well suited for boost appl.) Fuel pump and injectors? What do you have as most likely this will have to be upgraded. Also, A dyno tune.

What's the CR of the engine? Most boosted engines use a lower CR to reduce the chance of detonation. Those SRPs will be toast under the slightest sign of detonation. You may have to run a methanol injection setup or lower the CR.

Should also run an MSD box or similar spark amplifier.

In addition, at higher boost levels, most ppl. run 4 bolt mains due to the added stress.

 

Sounds like you have a nice combination of parts for your car, but the bad news is that they are probably not very boost friendly. As Joe mentioned in his post, one of the most important things to look at with these motors is the compression ratio. Ideally, you want to see your C/R in the neighborhood of 8.5-9.0:1 if you plan on putting some boost to it. Chances are with the SRP pistons you have and the head/block work that has been done, your compression ratio is at least that of a stock motor. If you find that your C/R is in fact too high to reliably run any measurable amount of boost through it, there are some things you can do to lower your C/R without replacing the motor, but usually a motor is built specifically with forced induction in mind so it may not be ideal to go that route. Find out what your current compression ratio is first. Also, you may want to consider going a different direction and look into a nitrous kit instead.

 

I'd definatly change the blue LED's to some green ones.

 

Well hold on. Alaskan94z28, what SRP's do you have?

You've got the hardware to run that blower all out, so long as you've got some dished pistons in there. What's the static comp ratio?

-Scott.