I was thinking of LT's but in NJ emission laws stink. Hey Mislman do you know what you make to the rear wheels did you ever have it dynoed? I'm just curious to see what i make RWHP wise.

 

Dyno'd at: 391 RWHP @ 5700 RPM and 395 lb. ft. of torque at 4800 RPM. Air/fuel ratio tuned to 12.5-12.6 across the RPM band of 3100-6100.

This is with the 4L60E automatic and a Ford 9" rearend (3.70 gears). Should be about 475 HP or so at the crank. The tranny was beefed up once about 2 years, 22K miles and 108 drag strip passes ago. No problems with the tranny to this point. I use LT1 edit for tuning and have the tranny shift points set at 5500 to make the most of the torque curve (2100 stall Corvette torque converter).

Later ... Larry S.

 

So do you think i'll be close to those RWHP numbers or do you think i will be lower then that. I am hoping for at least 380 or so to the rear wheels, do you think i'll be close if not what else will i need to acomplish this .

 

From one of your previous posts:

Hey Mislman,
If you ran high 12's with just with what you said is it possible for me to run low 12's I have a 97 TA with the 6 psi kit ,solid intake tube, larger air filter,MAC headers OR pipe,3 in cutout,and 3 in custom exhaust,ported/polished and larger valved heads,and custom tuning on a dyno ....Of course some free mods.I will be adding prob nitto's it is a M6 also...What do you think?Should i make more boost with the soild intake too....Oh yeah they will also pro be adding larger injectors and he is also adding the second fuel pump i didnt get it back yet still in the shop i can't wait to see what RWHP it will come back with..

I may have read this wrong but I thought it said you had MAC headers, OR pipe ..... If you are running stock exhaust manifolds you will be restricted on power even with 6 lb. pullies on the SC. With stock manifolds and the mods listed above, I would expect to see340-355 RWHP. Add some headers and do some tuning for the increased flow and I would expect to see 360-390 RWHP with a good tune and your 6-speed tranny. I have 1.6 roller rockers and tehy really help quite a bit (10-12 RWHP).

Later ... Larry S.

Later ... Larry S.

 

Hey Mislman. I do have MAC headers and OR pipe and 3 cutout going on as we speak The car is in the shop getting the head work done and 6 psi upgrade kit and tuning i made 315 rwhp before with stock manifolds,stock heads,4.5 psi and i had weak vavle springs and 9 degress's false knock due to a bad knock sensor .So i should see a decent gain in hp with the above workthere doing . DO YOU THINK SO?

 

YEP! You should get a big smile from those mods.

Later ... Larry S.

 

Thanks Mislman, for replying to my post's I'll let you know what it makes to the rear wheels when i get it back thanks again.....

 

In case you all missed it....for comparison's sake my dyno numbers are in sig. They are off a conservative tune so it really could have made about 400 RWHP had it been tuned to the max. My numbers are comparable to MislMan's because I've got stock heads and cam ....he doesn't, he has a very mild cam/heads setup. But, he's got a nine inch and A4 soaking up some of the rear wheel power as mentioned. I probably have 445 at the flywheel, I would say he has about 485. Our blowers are both pullied up at roughly the same impellor RPM per crank RPM too.
MislMan is my main supercharging mentor (along with a few others here) so feel free to ask me any questions as well for similar information. (I like talking about it just like Larry S )

 

hey Canbaufo, so do you think my car will make good rwhp with the mods i have,i want to have at least 380 or so rwhp and do at least low 12's in the 1/4 is this possible . if not what else will i need to do .thanks.........

 

You will probably come very close to my HP numbers but probably won't have quite as much midrange torque. It should be close none the less. Nine degrees of retard alone could be killing 35 ~ 45 RWHP. Good luck

 

thanks, yeah i made 315 rwhp with only the 4.5 psi kit installed and stock heads, stock manifolds,9 degree's false knock and weak valve springs. So i hope with the 6 psi kit solid intake tube larger air filter,P/P heads larger valve's,MAC headers/OR pipe 3 inch cut out lt4 KM custom tuning larger fuel injectors and im sure im forgetting something. I sure hope i can make close to your RWHP or at least close to it. I want to run low 12's too i hope.

 

About 2 weeks ago I installed your 4.5 unit on my 1996 Camaro Z28 9 (OBD2). I had a Lean problem THE HIGHER THE RPM THE LEANER IT WAS GETTING ( 4700 RPM WAS GETTING 14 TO 15 AIR FUEL ). ( but think
I have resolved it...Computer was reprogrammed in 1998 to lean out Engine...so I installed another computer , this time a STOCK computer, also installed an Accell External fuel pump under drivers side ).

My question to you is how much boost should I be running ?? I kinda bring the car up to red-line 4600 to 5000
RPM in 2nd the 3rd gear, but the BOOST only goes as high as 2 to 3 and a half PSI. Do I really Need to BEAT on the car
to see High BOOST Levels ?? Do I need to be in 4th Gear Hauling butt to see Boost ?? Is that Normal ?? Still think I have
a Lean Problem ??

I just ordered a New MAF ( Supercharger Tuned ), I also Just ordered a New Hypertech Computer Programmer. The Reason I'm getting a new MAF is, the NEW STOCK COMPUTER is showing a Check Engine Light. I check out the Code with my Akron Code Reader it said P0100 ( MAF)...Tried to clear code.No luck ...Did the Battery disconnect ...no good. Could this Bad MAF also be Leaning out the Car? Could this also be the reason why I'm not making my 5 PSI Boost ??? Please Help !!!!!! What would be a reason a supercharger would not make the Boost it's supposed to ????

This is a List of my Mods :


1996 BLACK Z28

4.5 psi POWERDYNE SUPERCHARGER

Granatelli MAF, MECH-TECH Reprogrammed Computer, Air foil, JBA Headers, Random tech Y pipe+ High Flow Cats, 3 inch Magna flow Cat-Back, MSD 6A, Taylor 409 10.4 mm wires, Dual Centerforce Clutch, Hurst T handle, Hurst Short throw Shifter, 106* Thermostat, Coolant by-pass, Water Wetter, Gel Battery, Accell High Volume Fuel pump, RED LINE OIL in Power steering and Rear Differential, Cross Drilled Rotors, Kumo 255-50ZR-16 Tires, HIGH POLISHED stock Rims, Rear Black-Outs, Strut tower brace, G-Load brace, Panrod bar, Bilstein shocks and struts, Skip Shift Eliminator, Polyurethane Tranny Mount, Underdrive Pulley Set, High Viss Fog Lights, Dual Pillar gage, Air-Fuel / VDO 0-15 Boost Gages, Pioneer Premier Stereo. 121,000 Miles....

Thanks for your Help !

 

You may be making more boost than you think....especially since you have an M6. It is hard to watch the boost gauge when you're at 5,000 RPM and shifting ....you may actually be looking at the gauge at a lower RPM than you think. Also consider this, is your boost gauge properly calibrated? It should read 0 when the car is sitting parked (not running of course). Mine reads about 1 PSI too low so when I see 2 PSI I know I'm really making more like 3.
Could your belt be slipping? Very common problem with Powerdynes. Don't overtighten too much to find out though. Take it one step at a time but no tighter than a half inch or so of deflection or the classic "1/4 turn rule". Is your FMU up to snuff? Man, I would not be content with using that computer and MAF combination at all.....sounds risky. You've got to be running kind of rich and kind of low on timing to be safe with a blower ......know what you're running. Start scanning or something ...it's too risky not to especially when you're using ciomputers and MAF's you're not really familiar with. I would sent the Hypertech back honestly, but I guess it's better than the mystery program. What you need is a stock MAF and stock computer to use along with timing retard and FMU......or, get the thing dyno tuned (best option because you could use your existing equipment and get the best tune .....and know what you've got. The dyno operator could possibly determine if the MAF is no good and /or maybe compensate for whatever it's doing via offsetting tuning. If you go the dyno route I suggest trashing your FMU and stepping up to 36 or 42 # injectors. Lots of things can cause boost loss, you're sure there are no leaks? Are you still using the crappy little filter or the real 0920 one? Is your flex hose collapsing? Lots of things it could be ..... Good luck if we can help anyway keep asking questions.

 

Just a couple of thoughts:

Did you pull out the MAF and look through it? Was anything foreign inside the MAF that may have been dropped in there during installation? paper or someting like that. Are all the small wires still intact and clean?

Could be belt slippage.

Boost is based on load. When you say you bring it up to red-line that sounds like you are doing so sort of gradually. You need the pedal firmly planted on the floor (ensuring no carpeting is preventing the TB from being at WOT) and should be pulling closer to 5700-6000 with the SC. You'll need some more RPM's and load to see full boost with the SC.

Just my .02

Later ... Larry S.

 

This is a great forum!!! I have a 1997 Camaro SS with a 6-speed . I also intalled the powerdyne 6.5 kit on my car this winter and besides the charger my car is stock. I don't have the boost gauge or a/f hooked up yet but I am driving it. It seems to me like I should have more power. I have not taken it to the track yet but for example the car won't spin the tires by just flooring it in any gear and I think that is strange. I do have new Eagle f1s on the car, but i still think it should do something. I know traction is good, but I think it should have more. I don't know if I should have it dyno tuned, and if I do where can I have it done? I live in Ohio and don't know who is good with the supercharged LT1s. I'll find out for sure how much I gained when I take it to the track, but I think it won't be what it should. Please help!!!!