Question bout procharger
#1
Question bout procharger
I bought a doner car for pretty cheap... it has a PSC1 and intercooler
I also plan on sending the motor out to get cleaned up, then putting in a forged 396 rotating assembly....
My questions (3)
1- Will the PSC1 be able to make boost on a 396????
2- I know there are alot of variables, but what kinda power are you guessing?
3- Will ported and polished stock heads with this combo hold me back alot?
I also plan on sending the motor out to get cleaned up, then putting in a forged 396 rotating assembly....
My questions (3)
1- Will the PSC1 be able to make boost on a 396????
2- I know there are alot of variables, but what kinda power are you guessing?
3- Will ported and polished stock heads with this combo hold me back alot?
#2
I will see if I can answer the best I can..
1. The P1SC will make boost on a 396,but its a little to small for 396ci...may even hold you back,great blower if you build a 355
2.blown 396ci with good heads and the right cam....and the right blower IE: D1SC or something like a T-trim should make over 650rwhp in street trim, on pump fuel...with the P1SC,its hard to say.IMHO I would think that it would hold back a nasty 396 with heads and cam
3. No.....you can make a lot of power with ported stock castings.....as long as the guy doing the port work is worth his salt
1. The P1SC will make boost on a 396,but its a little to small for 396ci...may even hold you back,great blower if you build a 355
2.blown 396ci with good heads and the right cam....and the right blower IE: D1SC or something like a T-trim should make over 650rwhp in street trim, on pump fuel...with the P1SC,its hard to say.IMHO I would think that it would hold back a nasty 396 with heads and cam
3. No.....you can make a lot of power with ported stock castings.....as long as the guy doing the port work is worth his salt
Last edited by Sparkz28ss; 11-29-2006 at 11:29 AM.
#3
Maximum boost depends primarily on three variables. The max CFM of the blower, rpm where you want the boost to peak, and the displacement of the motor. This based on the same reasoning used to calculate needed carb CFM. The principle is that an engine is an air pump and it is easy to calculate how much air it pumps if you know the displacement, speed (rpm) and efficiency (VE) of the "pump". You can ROUGHLY estimate max boost as follows. The 0.9 factor is the ~VE for the typical intake tract under non-boosted conditions. The number 3,456 is just a mathematical factor to make the units come out properly.
CID*rpm/3,456*(.9) = engine airflow requirement
((blower CFM/airflow required)*14.7) - 14.7 = boost
So, as an example if you have a 350 and a 1,000cfm blower and want to make peak boost at 6,000rpm:
350*6,000/3,456 = 607*.9 = 546
1,000/546 = 1.83*14.7 = 26.9 - 14.7 = 12.2psi is the approximate max boost at 6,000rpm with 1,000cfm.
You select pulley sizes to spin the blower to close to max impeller speed at the rpm where you want the power peak (primarily determined by the cam). Anything which increases VE will increase power but decrease boost. Lower VE will increase boost but decrease power. Anything that interferes with the blower output (especially inlet restriction) will decrease blower CFM and decrease boost and hp. An engine with a larger CID will see less boost and make about the same peak power as a smaller motor if the same blower is used and maxed out in each case. However, the larger motor will have a fatter torque curve and go quicker. Increased air density (cooler, drier, higher barometric pressure) will increase hp, lower air density will decrease hp.
Rich
CID*rpm/3,456*(.9) = engine airflow requirement
((blower CFM/airflow required)*14.7) - 14.7 = boost
So, as an example if you have a 350 and a 1,000cfm blower and want to make peak boost at 6,000rpm:
350*6,000/3,456 = 607*.9 = 546
1,000/546 = 1.83*14.7 = 26.9 - 14.7 = 12.2psi is the approximate max boost at 6,000rpm with 1,000cfm.
You select pulley sizes to spin the blower to close to max impeller speed at the rpm where you want the power peak (primarily determined by the cam). Anything which increases VE will increase power but decrease boost. Lower VE will increase boost but decrease power. Anything that interferes with the blower output (especially inlet restriction) will decrease blower CFM and decrease boost and hp. An engine with a larger CID will see less boost and make about the same peak power as a smaller motor if the same blower is used and maxed out in each case. However, the larger motor will have a fatter torque curve and go quicker. Increased air density (cooler, drier, higher barometric pressure) will increase hp, lower air density will decrease hp.
Rich
#4
You didn't say if it was going to be an LT1 or LS1 car.
A P1SC is a little on the small side for a stroker motor blower, although that's not saying you CAN'T use it.
What I'm going to do when this stock motor dies is build a forged piston/rod 9:1 347 motor, then pulley down the P1SC to get over 600 rwhp (LS1).
Mike
A P1SC is a little on the small side for a stroker motor blower, although that's not saying you CAN'T use it.
What I'm going to do when this stock motor dies is build a forged piston/rod 9:1 347 motor, then pulley down the P1SC to get over 600 rwhp (LS1).
Mike
#6
You should make easily 525+rwhp with mentioned components
P&P heads will probably hold you back some but you can upgrade later.
If you got if for cheap, might as well give it a try.
Worst case you can move up to better heads and the bigger D-1SC unit. Some places will give you trade in credit.
P&P heads will probably hold you back some but you can upgrade later.
If you got if for cheap, might as well give it a try.
Worst case you can move up to better heads and the bigger D-1SC unit. Some places will give you trade in credit.
#7
You should make easily 525+rwhp with mentioned components
P&P heads will probably hold you back some but you can upgrade later.
If you got if for cheap, might as well give it a try.
Worst case you can move up to better heads and the bigger D-1SC unit. Some places will give you trade in credit.
P&P heads will probably hold you back some but you can upgrade later.
If you got if for cheap, might as well give it a try.
Worst case you can move up to better heads and the bigger D-1SC unit. Some places will give you trade in credit.
Thats what I was thinking... I appreciate all the help guys. Im gonna give it a whirl cause I got it now, but outta curiosity, who does trades on suberchargers...?
#8
Rich
#10
But this one is used... are u saying it would be 1200 for me to upgrade now, b4 the build? Where is this guy, does he have a site?
#11
Bob is a good guy and runs a well established shop. I'm sure you could work something out with him. I don't think the gap will be $1200, but I could be wrong.
#13
http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread...ight=P1SC+D1SC
Check this out, should answer your question, and my statement
Check this out, should answer your question, and my statement
#14
Just wanted to keep you guys posted.... finally done with the build...
383 stroker LT-1, with the PSC1 on it spinning 7lbs of boost (4.25" pully) made 434 at the rear wheels....BUT..... that was getting outta the throttle at 4,800 rpms.......
The car was leaning out right around 4,700 rpms..... anyways, it was determined the intank stock pump even with the help of the helper pump couldnt keep up with the 60 lb injectors...
Just installed a wahlboro 255 in the tank, and hope that will cure the problem..... Just gotta get an apt back on the dyno...looking to spin it to 6,000 or maybe 6,500 rpm...
AND IF ALL ELSE FAILS.... I have a 3.40" pully for it.... LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
leave me some feed back please....
383 stroker LT-1, with the PSC1 on it spinning 7lbs of boost (4.25" pully) made 434 at the rear wheels....BUT..... that was getting outta the throttle at 4,800 rpms.......
The car was leaning out right around 4,700 rpms..... anyways, it was determined the intank stock pump even with the help of the helper pump couldnt keep up with the 60 lb injectors...
Just installed a wahlboro 255 in the tank, and hope that will cure the problem..... Just gotta get an apt back on the dyno...looking to spin it to 6,000 or maybe 6,500 rpm...
AND IF ALL ELSE FAILS.... I have a 3.40" pully for it.... LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
leave me some feed back please....
#15
Just wanted to keep you guys posted.... finally done with the build...
383 stroker LT-1, with the PSC1 on it spinning 7lbs of boost (4.25" pully) made 434 at the rear wheels....BUT..... that was getting outta the throttle at 4,800 rpms.......
The car was leaning out right around 4,700 rpms..... anyways, it was determined the intank stock pump even with the help of the helper pump couldnt keep up with the 60 lb injectors...
Just installed a wahlboro 255 in the tank, and hope that will cure the problem..... Just gotta get an apt back on the dyno...looking to spin it to 6,000 or maybe 6,500 rpm...
AND IF ALL ELSE FAILS.... I have a 3.40" pully for it.... LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
leave me some feed back please....
383 stroker LT-1, with the PSC1 on it spinning 7lbs of boost (4.25" pully) made 434 at the rear wheels....BUT..... that was getting outta the throttle at 4,800 rpms.......
The car was leaning out right around 4,700 rpms..... anyways, it was determined the intank stock pump even with the help of the helper pump couldnt keep up with the 60 lb injectors...
Just installed a wahlboro 255 in the tank, and hope that will cure the problem..... Just gotta get an apt back on the dyno...looking to spin it to 6,000 or maybe 6,500 rpm...
AND IF ALL ELSE FAILS.... I have a 3.40" pully for it.... LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
leave me some feed back please....
hope u have more then just ONE walbro 255 pump..most of us use 2 Walbro 255 pumps