I just received my sts turbo for my 95 lt1. If you have installed one of these and ran into issues with stuff not fitting as it should or tips to make things easier I would appreciate the advice. The instruction booklet from sts is a good tool I hope but like I said, I just got it and all I have done is some painting and installed the elbow tube on the throttle body. Has anyone posted a DIY on this yet that is actual experience or is all I have to work with is the videos on the install from the sts website. Open for advice on how to make this install as easy and quick as possible.

Thanks

 

seriously that was one of the easiest things iv put on my car... well when i was rolling with the sts kit. got off a 24hr duty at 6am slept till 12 got up and started intalling the kit at like 1pm stopped at 9 started the next day at 8am and was cruising down the street at like noon. if you have any mechanical skill at all then you wont have an issue at all. everything fit pretty good when i put mine on the first time.

good luck.

 

There were a couple problems with my kit. There wasn't a threaded hole in the intake tubing for the boost pressure switch (makes the oil pump run faster), so I ended up drilling and tapping the hole myself. Also, the fitting on the oil supply line to the turbo came apart because I apparently overtightened it (even though it didn't seem that tight). They replaced the line free of charge for me. I found that the system hung too low, so my dad helped me fab a bracket to hang the compressor side more securely, and higher. You should probably have your exhaust couplings welded together so they don't leak.

 

Where does the BOV go (which pipe) and is it above or below the MAF

 

depends what kit you have. i have a LT1 motor but used the LS1 kit b/c i had headers. on my kit the BOV was right in front of the left lower A arm before the maf. your BOV will always be before the maf so that the air flow between the maf and intake doesnt get messed with. the maf measures air so when the BOV opens its gonna think there is pretty much no air so its gonna stumble and die.

just follow the directions and you cant go wrong, the ones i had were great and spot on.

 

As far as new fuel pumps, injectors and spark plugs. Do I really need to upgrade, will I find out during tuning that I need to, or can I just keep it stock. If I need to upgrade, can anyone make some suggestions on reasonably priced parts that work efficiently. I am only going to run 6 pounds of boost, or 7 if I can get away with it but this is not a race car, so I am not looking for something more ridiculous then the kit is going to make it normally. Thanks for the posts, they have helped.

 

if i were you i would do 42lb injectors and a 255 pump just to make sure. i had a issue of the car leaning out at 5400 rpm on the stock injectors. you dont wont to go tuning and then find out after you fried something that you went lean for a long period of time.

if you plan on running 6-7lbs on a stock engine i would also suggest a intercooler at the least OR just run like 4-5lbs and when you feel like running more shoot meth. but even then its a matter of time till it blows up on you. i ran 9lbs on my stock lt1 when it decided it didnt like it anymore and spun a rod bearing, that was the first time it seen over 5lbs too.

id say start off small with all the safety features like: injectors, fuel pump, boost gauge, air fuel ratio gauge and some self control to not keep upping the boost like me. then SAVE YOUR MONEY b/c sooner or later it will blow and you are going to need a rebuild.

 

Even if I stayed at 5?

 

even at 5psi its only a matter of time before it lets go... sorry to say man. the best thing is to get a GOOD tune and supporting mods as mentioned and dont be like me and try to show off. i mean its not gonna die the first time you get on it, just dont make a habbit of doing it alot in the summer. honestly im sure if you just stay careful with it that it will last much much longer than mine. if i remember correctly when i talked to the dude at sts when i got my kit they pretty much did away with the LT1 kit so you prolly have the same one i do. tomorrow il get find some pics and post them up for you and you can see some of the stuff i did to the rear to gain more ground clearance. BUT if you did get the LT1 kit its got much better clearance as far as the charge pipe goes. when do you plan on putting the kit on? if you start at like 9am and at like noon start drinking beer you will be done by like 2pm

 

GRRRRRRRRRRRRR the internet sucks butt here. iv tried to upload pics on cardomain and photobucket for the past month with no success. sorry man not gonna be able to get pics up anytime soon. bandwith is a bitch

 

We have started istallation. So far we have mounted the intake pipe. t-taped the vaccum line. Cannot figure out how to route the fuel buzzer into the cockpit. Got it through the rubber gromet behind the comp but it is hitting something. Cut off the muffler and working on gettin git mounted. What should I do to clean off the cut pipe to make sure crap doesnt get into the intake side of the turbo? Mounted the oil pump and routed the return line. Can the oil lines and wires route along the fuel lines? Lets see what else. What is the hole for in the intake pipe on the front of the throttle body. There is a quarter size hole. Is this for a vacuum line? Ill ask more questions if I can think of them. I appreciate your help.

Oh and I have someone mounting the bov flange on the charge pipe. What is the material the pipes for this system are made of?

 

it not aluminum thats for sure... lol dont ask. just mile steel or something we welded some aluminized pipe to it just fine.

exhaust: just take some sand paper to the edges of that exhaust pipe and if possible start the car and rev it a few times to blow out any crap that might have got inside it.

buzzer: its actually to monitor oil pressure not fuel. i didnt have a problem with getting my buzzer inside the car at all i just unhooked it and routed the wire inside.

charge pipe: for the hole in the intake pipe that is for your IAT (inlet air temp) when you took off the stock intake you had to unplug a sensor, that sensor goes in the hole. the hole in my intake pipe was bigger than the sensor so i used a rubber gromet and got lucky that it didnt pop out under boost.

underbody wires: i first ran my wire with the fuel lines with zip ties and a few days later i used "P" clamps to secure the wires to the fuel lines. i used one p clamp on the fuel like for a mount and put a p clamp around the wires and used 7/16" (3/8"shank) bolts to bolt the p clamps together. worked great. after i blew the motor and decided to make everything nicer i cut a hole in the floor board and used a rubber gromet running the wire into the car and to the fire wall. i cut another hole and used a gromet to run the wires to the engine bay. that worked even better but its alot of work.

oil pump: i would recommend to use a bolt and nut to mount it do the car not just the self tappers b/c mine broke and the pump fell, if it wasnt for me being a perfectionist and putting a catch wire on iti would have had some issues. at the least get some hard core lacing wire or something and mount that to the car and the pump for a back up.


keep us informed on the install

 

What does the 1psi pressure switch control, and on a stock set up how is excess fueling accomplished while under boost. Also, what is the little manual toggle used for on the front wiring harness

Install is slow but good, we did some soldering down on the maf today but that is about all.

 

what efficiency do the stock injectors on a 95 z28 run at. For tunnning this system, what is the recommeneded device. The shop I was going to use asked me what I wanted them to use to tune it. I thought they use the dyno and there standard computer that plugs into the car. I am lost on the tuning

Okay, found out they are 24#, but what rate do they run at. With the calculation on the forum, it says I need around 28#, but I guess I would have to jump to 30s if that is the case. Just seeing if I could stay out of boost to get over to the shop and then have them throw the injectors in there during the tune.

 

i donno what that toggle switch is for to be honest.... i would go with some 42lb injectors. for the tuning the shop should know what they are doing. see if they have LT1edit and if so have them tune with that. the pressure switch controls the pump, it tells it to go to full power while under boost to pump the oil back to the engine faster.