In reading the instuctions, it looks like the toggle switch might have something to do with the green line they give you for installing gauges (boost or air/fuel) not sure why they would give you an on/off switch for that but what ever. And the shop does not have lt1 edit. should I get the tuning system that sts recommends and do it myself?

 

Well insallation is finished. I will try to get some picks up soon because I finally own a digital camera. All that is left is the tune that I purchased from madz28.com and the 42 lbs. injectors. On stock parts though it has been running like a champ. Havnt really gotten into boost to much yet though.

Now the new issue is. Cant get air to come out of the dashboard vents. But I will work on that.

Also tapped into the wrong vacuum line for the boost gauge. But when I get the computer tune then we will figure that out.

 

Interested to see what your hp/tq numbers and curve are. Was your car basically stock prior to the turbo? Meaning, no internal engine mods, such as heads/cam/etc?

 

Yes. Only upgrade was a functional ss intake which was removed during installation.

 

Conrats on getting it all done and in man!

 

hey man sorry i havent posted... i just got internet back a few days ago and its extremly busy here as we get ready to go back home. for the boost gauge if you put it where the sts instructions tell you to put it look around for a small round thing thats some kind of check valve or some **** i cant really remember it but i broke it kinda so my gauge only read boost and not vacuum. to be honest i would put it somewhere else, just T off anything that is hooked directly to the intake. good luck

 

Please help.... Installed the new injectors and the computer and on the first run, didnt get into it to much and it ran fine. First run was about 2 miles total. The next rum was about a quarter of a mile and the engine stalled. When the clutch engaged, we lost it too. It did not appear to running on all cylinders and was running rich. Pulled it into a gas station and and let it sit. The first start up it was running real rough and had to be on the gas to keep idle. Then let it sit again and after about 10 min it would idle but it idled bad, but good enough to take it the other 1/4 of a mile home. Still appears to be rich. I had to keep on the gas even in with the clutch in and could not get out of first. Any ideas here boys? Do not understand why it would run fine one run and then sit for a while and then run like crap.

 

try to read the codes.... if it runs like crap just idling but when you get on give it full throttle it rungs good its prolly a oxygen sensor.....let us know

 

Dont have the tools here to read the codes, we are going to pull a spark plug on each side tonight and see if the are fouled up. If they are good then we will take another direction. And it was doing so well too. Ran fine stock.

 

and its on a new tune right now?? im going with oxygen sensor or sensors. still have the stock cat on? if so then i would really lean towards a oxygen sensor. only took 2 weeks for one of mine to go bad but that wasnt much driving.

 

Well the spark plugs were fowled. I spoke with the tuner and he said he had never done one with exactly my setup so he was not sure but is willing to take the computer back and refund. He advised to get some cables and tunercat and take it to a dyno tuner. So it looks like it is back in with the stock injectors and and the stock comp until i can get it to a dyno. But we will see what happens.

 

hummmmm if you get it dyno tuned and there is a problem with the car other than a tune they will find out real quick. good luck

 

Well the pipe to the mas sensor was seperating from the pipe on the intake. The plugs were not fowled beyond working condition and due to the pita of the passenger side plugs, I left the in there. It ran fine with the tune for several runs and I got into about 3lbs of boost (trying to build up alittle confidence). Then on a run last week, went around a turn and the pipe seperated again. This was not to bad because I knew what to look for and got the blue fitting on there long enough to get home, but I am getting sick of the pipe seperating. Has anyone had issues with the fitting on the top of the maf sensor seperating. If so would a longer blue fitting and adding a clamp work? Any ideas.

Car seems fine other than this easily fixable problem. Friend things that the engine movement might be popping it loose. I seems to have clearance though which leads me to beleive it is a length issue.

PS in boost this thing is freakin ridiculous.

I recommend the STS turbo

 

I had a difficult time getting the pipe that contains the BOV and the pipe that bolts to the subframes lined up. I ended up having to cut ¾” off tube with the BOV near the subframe to get it to bolt under the car. I haven’t had any problems with the pipe disconnecting at that location, but getting the air pump relocated and the methanol pump installed was bit of a pain. I could see if I hadn’t cut the BOV pipe it would have been another ¾” forward of the front sway bar making the turn angle into the throttle body even greater.

How are your engine mounts? Maybe the angle and the slight torqueing of the engine is enough to disconnect your pipe.

I’ll list some of the problems I’ve had so far:

1. I hear a banging underneath the car during hard turns, going over sharp bumps or during hard shifting. I think it’s the parking brake bracket on the rear ending hitting the pipe but there doesn’t appear to be any wear.

2. I had oil blowing by the return line going into the valve cover. It turned out that the fitting going through the cap needed to be screwed together tighter. I though it was blowing out the breather and I ended up adding a catch can and oil separator. (which is good practice anyway)

3. There is really bad rear end hop between 3rd and 4th gear when shifting hard. (I have yet to power shift the car since I scared I may break something) If feels like the rear of the car is moving around. I looking at replacing the shocks and going to polyurethane bushings.

All and all I’m very happy so far with the choice I made. There were a lot of negative things written about the STS turbo system, but each aftermarket kit has it’s own set of unique issues. There’s a lot of great information on this board that allows you to benefits from everyone’s else’s experience and make the choice that right for you.

I did a complete engine rebuild so 90% of the time I have low compression V8 that’s getting pretty good gas mileage but is a completely different car above 3500 rpm. I also have the option of going from 7.25 to 15 psi should I need to. It’s takes some time to get use the turbo lag. Brake boosting the car helps.

 

Well, I had the same issue with the bov pipe fitting too, so I took a hach saw to it and shortened it underneather the car alittle. The other issue might just need some tweaking, but I have used all the proper bolts so I am not sure. Does the bov need a pressue line going to a vacuum line in the manifold, or does it operate correctly without that valve. I just welded the flange and bolted the bov off, and when the car is in running condition it appears that it works fine.

I am also having an issue with some leaking at the oil fill cap (return line). Mine appears to be the actual cap not seating tight, not the little brass fitting but I will recheck when I get it running again. Thanks for the info, and if you could expand on the oil seperater and catch thing you were talking about I would appreciate it.