I still don't understand how people run a single turbo on the LT1 or LS1 ...
Do they actually have 2 manifolds that kinda like meet with an Y pipe and the exhaust is then channeled to the turbo or is the exhaust taken from just 1 cilinder bank ???

I see several people on this forum with turbo setup's however it's hardly shown how the manifold system is created.

I'm specificly interested in how it works for the LT1.

 

You got it!

Studytime

 

Look at the pic in my sig and you will notice a crossover pipe toward the bottom of the engine.

Wingnut

 

Thanks, noticed those pics but they look VERY hardcore, especially since PS and AC are gone.
Are there examples of easier (cheaper) setups ?

I always thought that the turbo is supposed to be close to the exhaust ports for maximum energy, it looks like A LOT of piping is needed to feed a turbo from both cilinder banks.

I have turbo experience on 4 cylinder VW engines but that's really straight forward compared to this, especially since you only need 1 manifold and crammed up space is less of an issue.

I's really like to see how people have solved these issues on the LT1, especially home made setups (adapted factory manifolds ?)

 

You need to update your sig. . .

 

for a basic setup you have the 2 headers then the crossover pipe which feeds the turbo,then your charge pipe or piping to a FMIC....its really not that complicated....heres a pic of the crossover pipe.

the smaller pipe is just the downpipe...

 

When it comes to a cheaper turbo setup there is always the option of constructing your own. Assuming you have the know how and the time needed to come up with something approaching quality and that actaully performs like you want it to. Regarding runnning no power steering and no AC, i would NEVER do this. Unless you want to drive a race car strictly. The benefits obviously do not outway the drawbacks. Plus its much more impresssive to run a full weight street car that is actually enjoyable to drive yet fast as all get out. The PTK kit retains all OEM creature comforts as do some other custom kits which have been constructed by members here. I decided to go with the best kit $$$ can buy, PTK. No ac wasnt an option for me seeing that I live in Phoenix. And I cant even imagine driving a 4,000 pound car with no ps! No thanks. Just ask some of the guys here about having a kit built.

 

Thanks, it really gives me an idea now of what to expect.
And indeed a FULL weight car, never understood the stripped car concepts, might aswell buy a motorcycle then ...........

Would love to see some of the members who build their kit.

Seen the PTK kit but it's kinda pricey plus i have a set of ASM shorties laying here that could be used i guess, welding isn't an issue and neither are getting pre bend pieces of pipe.

I do think it's quite a challenge to get the crossover pipe from the back to the front as it's pretty crowded in there.

Thanks for that picture Spider, it really gives a good idea of the crossover pipe.
People ever used a set of LT headers in a custom turbo setup ?????

 

Oh just for your info and my sig info.
At this very moment my LT1 engine is at the machine shop as i'm starting to rebuild it next week.
NEW internals, Forged rods, forged pistons, Ported LT1 heads, LT's, new and balanced crankshaft, ARP main studs, ARP headbolt, Melling HO, proper gaskets, 38# injectors, the works.

The engine is build for N/A operation as i think it's a challenge by itself to have it swapped to replace the 6.
I'm aiming at about 475HP at the cranck but since i've been bitten by the FI spider after my 4cyl turbo project i think i'll most likely go FI in the near future to reach my HP goals in the future as i'm not sure i will make the HP goal, let alone 450-500 RWHP.
So i'll enjoy the engine as is in NA mode but i'm starting to lSERIOUSLY look at FI at this point in time so i can have the info ready once i decide to go to the Darkside plus it gives me something to wish for.

Spending a fortune isn't gonna be an option anytime soon so i'm looking into doing a lot by myself and thus saving $$$$ in the proces.
The engine will be build pretty solid but with it's high CR will not far from ideal so i have been toying around with the idea of using a custom MLS head gasket made by Comete that will bring the CR to about 9.1:1
That way the engine will be fine and since it has forged internals it should be able to handle some boost.
Since my HP goals are kinda timid (compared to most guys) at about 450-500 RWHP i will not be needing a Godzilla turbo or a forged 383 4 bolt main block.
Therefore hence my interest in people's personal FI creations since a home fabricated setup should be able to get me into those numbers.
Any advise on a affordable turbo that would suit my needs keeping my goals in mind ?

 

running that thick of a head gasket can mess with proper quench...i would run regular head gasket with the higher compression, and if you want to go FI, bolt on a set of trick flows or AFR's with the larger combustion chamber to lower your CR the correct way

a single sc-61 or master power t-70 will get you to 450-500 rwhp range with proper setup.

while your buliding this bottom end, go ahead and buy some splayed 4 bolt main caps and have it converted by your machine shop...it will save you trouble later if you trying for 500 rwhp

 

I hear ya ...
I am going to run a proper 0.039" gasket but i want to run a thicker one once i decide to run FI to make the numbers if my N/A setup should dissapoint.

I guess it's now too late for different setup plans as the engine will be build next week and i cannot afford to have is played and a line bored and things like that.
Been serahing the forum and it seems that your good to go with studded 2 bolt mains and proper forged internals on a car that will NOT see the track on a regular base and mainly is ONLY used for street riding in summertime with the occasional spanking of some serious Euro exotic cars.

Bringing down the compression using heads will not be done by using different heads, mine have cost a pretty penny and i'm not gonna spend a lot more for AFR's just for compression and a bit of better flow.
I was thinking of the THICK gasket as i thought it wouldn't matter that much but i'll guess i'll have to replace the piston's for other ones with bigger pockets.

On the otherhand when i read about SC kits and people running turbo kits on STOCK Lt-1's (10.5 compression !) and still running 7 psi i think i can take some punch with my reasonably strong bottom and just a thicker (about 0.090"- 0.120") gasket ?

 

A gasket that thick will not only screw up quench height, but will also cause problems with intake manifold ports and bolt holes lining up.

 

Okay so it looks like that isn't such a good idea then.
Wonder why Comete makes those 'thick' gaskets for the LT1 ........

 

you can use a thicker gasket if your deck height is at .000 to get proper quench

 

Right, but proper quench is .030 - .040. So, if you had the pistons .060 out of the hole, the thick gasket would work. . .