Granted I just figured out my timing was severely retarded - as much as 5 degrees atdc.... But my setup get really hot. My dampner was way off and I am running a crank trigger setup. I have a keyed hub/dampner on the way now.

Log style manifolds, crossover from pass to driver side under the oil pan. Turbo is in front of the driver manifold. Logs are 14ga mild steel.

After 1/2 hours of idle time in the driveway I am melting wire loom that is 2-3 inches away from my manifolds. Looks to be impossible to keep plug wires very long. I have wrapped as much as I can with several layers of that extreme temp aluminum tape - But I know that will only do so much. The wire loom around my fuel lines is pretty much gone.


At this point my coolant temp was finally reaching the 200-205 mark. I am on a 160 stat - low fans always on - high @ 170. It dropped with a short drive though.

I found a local coater with great prices. This should be my next step. He has the 1350ish F silver/aluminum ceramic stuff and then for a few dollars more he can do the black stuff. I think its more like 1700F.

I plan to get my new hub on and see if I can dial my timing in. Hopefully that will help if I stop using my manifolds as combustion chambers.

Anyone ran uncoated and then coated? How big of a help is it on this and coolant temps?

 

Wow... sounds like its cooking under there. What radiator/fans do you have? Any pics of your setup?

 

Stock fans/radiator just moved foward... pics coming








Others here if needed http://good-times.webshots.com/album...cNQyo?start=72

 

I'm sure my egts where through the roof with my timing so far retarded. A keyed hub will be 90% better. Monday I wll be able to check again.

How have your kits done uncoated RQ?

 

So I have 3 kits that are running, one is professionally coated (Roadie), Justin's has the hi temp BBQ paint that has surprisingly stayed on, and mkent had to modify one of my old ones and I think he may have wrapped some stuff. Honestly, I would get it professionally coated.

 

Guessing the bbq paint is for protection/looks and doesn't do much as a thermal coating?

Found one that will do it for $200-250 - Said he needed to see it first to be sure.

Silver or black coating?

 

BBQ paint is for looks and rust prevention on the outside. It doesnt create a heat barrier.

I would be very surprised it he does it for $200-$250, but maybe he is cutting you a deal.

Black is supposedly more heat resistant to the silver, but I know of a few high powered setups that havent had any problems with the silver.

 

I know the black will last longer, but will it hold more heat inside and lower temps more? Or does the aluminized stuff do that better?

 

Not sure... but your coater should know.

 

I'll go talk to him soon. Probably shouldn't spend the money right before Christmas.

TY sir.

 

could always put headder wrap around it the stuff works good lasts about 2 years or so...summit has it...2 inch wide or so and then just clamp it.

 

Someone just had a thread in lt1 tech about header wrap, caused a buildup of moisture or something and rusted out part of the headers. I'm coating my hot parts this week.

 

Yeah you have to paint them first (rust proof) and then wrap them..I did it on my friends car when he put huge headders on it and it worked fine. Where most of the tubing is I don't think there will be too much moisture unless the car sits alot. It's a cheep trick that works...nothing is as good as getting them coated but if the stuff is in the car this can be done to get by till you take it apart and send it out.

 

Here is the thread if anyone wants to read up...

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...highlight=wrap

 

Something can't be right, I had my timing 10+ degrees retarded, up to 15+ in some spots when I first put the kit on, and never had a high heat issue. I'm running the bbq paint(for looks) that RealQuick put on it and it's holding up good. I even drove home one night, and pulled out 7 of my 8 plugs right after turning it off.(was in too nice of clothes to jack it up and craw under it and pull the 8th one) They aren't any hotter than a set of long tube headers at all!