Do you have a link to this "kit" than now includes the heads? Any way like i said go into the forced induction forum and search for ptk hot parts(pro turbo kits). http://www.proturbokits.com/store/sc...?idproduct=194 i just spec'd out a lt1 kit with a air to air intercooler and a t76 turbo and it was $6200. Then you need tuning,fuel,built shortblock,heads/valvetrain...

 

haha go ahead buy that ebay kit. I garuntee you're being ripped off. Sorry to be so harsh about this, but you don't have a clue what you're doing. you can go ahead and try it your way, but you'll spend a fortune buying crap and then having it blow up time and time again. I'm not telling you you can't turbo an LT1 on a decent budget, but you're gonna need to do alot of research first.

 

 

on a slightly related note, when you write out your posts like you're talking in the IM chatrooms no one on any of these boards is going to take you that seriously.

 

where do you guys come up with these high dollar amounts? he said he was willing to do the work himself...i built my completely forged 4 bolt splayed 8.4:1 compression motor for under $3k with all new parts...where do you come up with $10k? also, my turbo kit, also using all new parts, and including the welder and chop saw to build it with, cost me $2,700...look at my sig. for details

 

This is what I've spent so far

Block- $4000
turbos- $2000
wg- $700
manifolds- $1700
downpipes- $700
injectors- $600
fuel pump- $700
engine management- $1500
clutch- $1000
heads- $2200

Those are just the big items and is a reference to what you'll be getting into. Some things I bought that I didn't need to, but it all works out in the end. I'm sure you can build a twin turbo LT1 under $10,000 but you'll end up spending much more than that in the long run.

 

I'd like to see a list of these parts. What about the machine work? Looks like you went to The Stevie Wonder School of Welding. A mild steel PAINTED turbo header.

 

There's nothing wrong with a mild steel header, the paint will obviously burn off the first time he gets on it though.

 

A stainless steel header is a far better way to do things.

 

There again, it depends on what you're doing with the car.

 

machine work was $1100, and yes the headers were the first things i built so the welds were a little crappy, but the welds are better on the rest of the tubing...and whats wrong with header paint? many people have used it without it burning off, after all, its made for temps up to 1500*...plus i didnt want to waste my money on ceramic coating when ill probably rebuild the headers soon causeim not happy with the welds

and why attack and criticise my work? i built it myself and saved a **** load of money and im happy with it...sorry i didnt just bolt on a blower, i wanted something different

 

It'll still burn off if the headers begin to glow.

 

I guess I just have a different way of doing things. I like to do things the right way... the first time. It may cost more now, but to do it twice or three times always winds up costing more in the long run.

 

Again, depends on what you're doing. If you're running a single turbo that isn't directly connected to the headers (PTK style), stainless would be fine IMO. If you're running twins where the headers are supporting the weight of each turbo plus the downpipes, wastegates, etc... then mild would be a better option as it doesn't tend to crack/deform as often as stainless. There isn't really a right or wrong way to go with the materials we're discussing, just personal opinion/budget.

 

Use the right gauge stainless with a thick flanges and fabricate brackets to support the weight of the turbos, tubing, wastegates, etc., and you wont have a problem.