wireing dual fuel pumps
#1
wireing dual fuel pumps
I saw a thread on this but can't open the picture on it.
I have 2 pumps, and plan on using one for boost only, Id also like to be able two switch from one to the other being a primary pump.
I already have hob switch, and pumps mounted.
I need to find relay's that will work for my set up, a scematic so i can look at it carefully and not $$$$ any thing up, and any thing else electrical that i may need.
also
I have the slp line lock set up, and dont what to use it the way it was intended to be used.
I would like to use it to lock out the rear brake line, insted of holding pressure in the front line, so i could turn it on and still use front peddle to control just front tires.
My plan is to just put it on the back brake line, and reverse it so it could block the pressure to the rear.
does any one see problem with this?
I have 2 pumps, and plan on using one for boost only, Id also like to be able two switch from one to the other being a primary pump.
I already have hob switch, and pumps mounted.
I need to find relay's that will work for my set up, a scematic so i can look at it carefully and not $$$$ any thing up, and any thing else electrical that i may need.
also
I have the slp line lock set up, and dont what to use it the way it was intended to be used.
I would like to use it to lock out the rear brake line, insted of holding pressure in the front line, so i could turn it on and still use front peddle to control just front tires.
My plan is to just put it on the back brake line, and reverse it so it could block the pressure to the rear.
does any one see problem with this?
#2
You basicly have two positive wires the go into the fuel tank. One for each pump. You should have two relays(Usually mounted near the drivers side back axle under the floor pan). One for each hot wire(from the alternater). Each relay has a trigger wire to turn on power to the pumps. One of the trigger wires come from the stock fuel pump relay under the drivers side dash by the foot rest and is turned on by the pcm whenever the key is on and the motor is running. The other trigger wire comes from the hobbs switch that triggers at about 4 psi. If you want to switch these trigger wires(to switch duty positions of the pumps) then you need a 3 position dual pole dual throw switch(which I mounted under the dash). Sorry no pics for you.
BTW I don't think your idea for blocking the pressure to the rear brakes is a good one. If you block pressure to the rear brakes the master cylinder will not be able to get full pressure to the fronts due to the plunger arrangement.
BTW I don't think your idea for blocking the pressure to the rear brakes is a good one. If you block pressure to the rear brakes the master cylinder will not be able to get full pressure to the fronts due to the plunger arrangement.
Last edited by 97WS6Pilot; 06-04-2009 at 09:13 PM.
#3
Couldn't you just find the power wire that normally powers the pump and replace it with a 10awg wire all the way up to the factory relay (R1), and from the relay to the battery... or just simply make a whole new harness.
So one pump operates as normal, the other pump gets power through a 2nd added (Hobbs switched) relay (R2) which is powered from the same 10awg wire, so kicking on PUMP2 only under boost.
So one pump operates as normal, the other pump gets power through a 2nd added (Hobbs switched) relay (R2) which is powered from the same 10awg wire, so kicking on PUMP2 only under boost.
Last edited by MikeGyver; 06-07-2009 at 06:01 AM.
#4
Not sure how to do it but you can run the line lock the way you want, it has been done.
I guess you would just plum it on the rear brakes then activate lock and still be able to use peddle for front brakes
I guess you would just plum it on the rear brakes then activate lock and still be able to use peddle for front brakes
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