I replaced the Opti and did the LTCC conversion about a year ago after having issues with the car shutting off due to a bad opti.

The LTCC had been working fine after it was installed and after the opti was replaced. Occasionally under acceleration it would hop/jerk it seemed like and I would let off the gas and then it would accelerate fine again but I can probably count on 1 hand how many times it did it.

I just replaced my cd receiver head unit with a pioneer about a month ago and had a friend do it. There was trial and error involved when splicing wires together which drained the battery and then the next day my battery died and wouldn't charge so I replaced it.

2 weeks ago it was raining out and I had just gotten gas and was pulling out of the gas station and the car shut off and wouldn't turn on again. I had the receiver on at the time. It would churn but wouldn't ignite it seemed. When it shut off the check engine light came on. I waited probably 15 min and then it started. Then last weekend I had driven maybe 5 min and stopped to eat and then when I left I had the receiver on again and accelerating in 3rd the car shut off and backfired pretty loudly. I waited about 5 min and then it started. I decided to not use the receiver to see if it had anything to do with it and until today it hasn't shut off. Today i started to make a call and the receiver automatically turns on when making a call which I forgot about so I quickly canceled after it had turned on and shortly after when I was stopped idling the car shut off again and wouldn't start right away. I probably waited 5 min until it started and when it did it was a powerful start and sounded healthy.

At this point I don't know if this has anything to do with the CD receiver head unit so I wanted to get your opinion. The old receiver was aftermarket as well but had a junction box that kills the receiver completely when it is off. We removed that box when installing the new receiver and now when I turn off the receiver when the car is on it turns off but is still lit up like its getting power. When I turn the car off and I open and shut the driver door the receiver then completely turns off and is not lit up. Do you think the receiver has anything to do with car shutting off? Or could this be the LTCC?

I saw on another post that maybe it could be connections to alternator or battery?

Any help would be great. I emailed Bob Bailey about this a couple days ago but still no response

 

What was the code that turned on the SES light?

 

I'm not sure I wasn't able to see the code. I will have to test it in my driveway to see

 

A signature helps people help you. I realize you appear to have the year of the car in your screen name, but that isn't always a good assumption.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...nature-879835/

 

Thanks, Done

 

Did you check the status of the LED's on the LTCC box?

As far as the receiver, sounds like you have power from the RAP module hooked up to the wrong wire (illumination wire) in the head unit. RAP power should go to the main "ignition" input.

 

Ok so was able to get a code. When it died didn't see a the led red light come on but could have missed it. When I started it back up after it died I got 2 red blinks then it turned back to green. Then tried to see if it would die again but it was on for awhile so turned it off. Started it right back up after I turned it off just to see if any red blinks happened and none. But that time it was popping badly out the exhaust and idling rough.

 

Two blinks of the red indicates a problem with the number of high resolution pulses between the start of the low resolution pulse. Wonder if your code is DTC 36 for high resolution pulse failure of the Opti's optical cam position sensor. Possibly intermittent.

 

Yea could be. It is intermittent. I started it again later, this time not after it had died and got 2 red blinks again. But previously, hours before, started it without it dying and got no red blinks.

Also, the problem with the head unit not shutting off looks like it has been fixed.



This fuse box is what the 12V wire was attached to on the previous head unit. Looks like it reduces voltage. Attached it again to the new head unit and now the receiver shuts completely off when I turn the car off without opening the door.

 

Car's at the shop now, should know tomorrow of its the opti sensor. If it is Im thinking about getting rid of the opti and doing a full LT1 to LS1 ignition conversion. Any thoughts?

 

I've been running with 8 LS1 coils, in a system similar to the LTCC. But installed before the LTCC was available. Uses the cam position signals from a GM OEM vented Opti. Been running for 17 years with no problems. I have data logs showing the engine hit 8,000 RPM on a couple missed shifts when the car still had the T56. Opti had no problem providing the data. Rev limiter shut off the engine at 7,400 RPM, but when you miss 2-->3, the 8,000 RPM can happen. Fortunately the solid roll cam had no problem either.

Problem with the Opti now is finding a reliable optical module. Not sure if GM still uses the original Mitsubishi module. Whatever MSD uses is not reliable. I just sent their engineering group two data logs from MSD units that were causing major problems with erratic RPM signals. This makes three units I've found with this problem. One of them was a failed unit the MSD had just rebuilt and returned. We're trying to get the owner of the most recent failure to return the unit to MSD. They will provide a replacement. But he already bought a cheap replacement and all his problems disappeared.

There is more 24X activity on this site, and I think someone has a setup for sale:

LTXTECH Forums

http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...0751-24X-setup

 

Before you give up on the Opti, check the harness connectors (gray one in the picture, and the one directly at the Opti) for corrosion and damaged pins. And push the gray Opti connector pushpin into the hole in the bracket next to it, holding the EVAP solenoid. That's where it belongs. You don't want random RFI from plug wires interfering with the Opti signals.

 

Thanks. Where do you exactly mean to push opti connector pushpin into? Which bracket are you referring to? Turns out it is the opti. The harness connectors were clean. So now I'm really leaning towards doing the full conversion, unfortunately more money but I think it will save me in the long run.

 

See in this picture the the gray colored connector with a push pin is inserted into the EVAP bracket. I believe this is what Injuneer is referring to.

You might have to click on the photo to enlarge it.

 

Ok, yes I see now. Thank you!