Fuel Pump Bucket - Use or no?
#1
Fuel Pump Bucket - Use or no?
Hey guys,
I was looking at write ups on fuel pump replacements and one writeup had the bucket being reused, the other writeup had the pump secured directly to the bracket with no bucket using hose clamps. Which is the best route to use? I am going to be installing a Racetronix pump, if that makes any difference.
Secondly, is it OK to do the trap door method if the tank is full of gas? I filled up on Tuesday not realizing I wouldn't be driving the car around that much due to the weather and I plan to replace the pump over the weekend. Any issues? I did put ~40 miles on it so it's a couple gallons down but not much.
I was looking at write ups on fuel pump replacements and one writeup had the bucket being reused, the other writeup had the pump secured directly to the bracket with no bucket using hose clamps. Which is the best route to use? I am going to be installing a Racetronix pump, if that makes any difference.
Secondly, is it OK to do the trap door method if the tank is full of gas? I filled up on Tuesday not realizing I wouldn't be driving the car around that much due to the weather and I plan to replace the pump over the weekend. Any issues? I did put ~40 miles on it so it's a couple gallons down but not much.
#3
No - definitely not. I didn't realize the bucket was necessary which is why I was asking. It was misleading because I was referencing a fuel pump install writeup that was posted on this site in one of the threads where the guy didn't use the bucket and strapped the pump to the bracket with no bucket. If the bucket is necessary, I'll use it, I was just mislead by the install pictures:
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/fuelpump.html
Anyway, I'll use the bucket. Thanks.
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/fuelpump.html
Anyway, I'll use the bucket. Thanks.
#4
From the Racetronix website:
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...%2D003&eq=&Tp=
Why use a Racetronix F-LT1 Fuel Pump Assembly?
The LT1 F-body cars have a pump that is inside a plastic fill-bucket. The fill-bucket's inlet and check-valve system in combination with the fuel pump are designed to draw fuel from the bottom of the tank via suction. This keeps the bucket full at all times and the pump fully immersed in fuel regardless of the tank level so that when the tank is low on gas and you are doing some hard cornering or acceleration the pump does not run dry and start aerating (air bubbles) the fuel. This happens as the fuel sloshes from side to side in the tank leaving the center low on fuel. The F-LT1 cars have minimal to no baffling in them. This can cause detonation and possible engine damage. The bucket also allows the car to operate with lower fuel levels in the tank due to its scavenging effect. The bucket can also effect motor cranking time as the priming time is reduced under certain conditions. The return line from the fuel pressure regulator is diverted back into the bucket via a filter sock inside so that the unused fuel also helps keep the bucket full at all times. Keeping the pump constantly immersed in gas within the bucket can extend the pump's life by not allowing it to be exposed to open air. Open air within the tank contains moisture and in time will cause the pump to rust / seize up especially if left to sit for long periods of time without the tank topped-up (i.e. winter storage). The Racetronix pump assembly is modified so that it will seal in the bucket’s rubber check-valve so that its function is retained......
The LT1 F-body cars have a pump that is inside a plastic fill-bucket. The fill-bucket's inlet and check-valve system in combination with the fuel pump are designed to draw fuel from the bottom of the tank via suction. This keeps the bucket full at all times and the pump fully immersed in fuel regardless of the tank level so that when the tank is low on gas and you are doing some hard cornering or acceleration the pump does not run dry and start aerating (air bubbles) the fuel. This happens as the fuel sloshes from side to side in the tank leaving the center low on fuel. The F-LT1 cars have minimal to no baffling in them. This can cause detonation and possible engine damage. The bucket also allows the car to operate with lower fuel levels in the tank due to its scavenging effect. The bucket can also effect motor cranking time as the priming time is reduced under certain conditions. The return line from the fuel pressure regulator is diverted back into the bucket via a filter sock inside so that the unused fuel also helps keep the bucket full at all times. Keeping the pump constantly immersed in gas within the bucket can extend the pump's life by not allowing it to be exposed to open air. Open air within the tank contains moisture and in time will cause the pump to rust / seize up especially if left to sit for long periods of time without the tank topped-up (i.e. winter storage). The Racetronix pump assembly is modified so that it will seal in the bucket’s rubber check-valve so that its function is retained......
#6
Very cool info - thanks Fred, should have checked Racetronix' site first. I saw they also don't recommend the trap door method but I ain't dropping the whole tank just to replace the pump.
#7
I would think this is one of the biggest pros for keeping the bucket.
I replaced my pump this past spring via the trap door method and had a pretty full tank....no issues here.
The return line from the fuel pressure regulator is diverted back into the bucket via a filter sock inside so that the unused fuel also helps keep the bucket full at all times.
#9
By the time you need a bucket of water, you are already going to be dead from the explosion.
#10
I drilled a hole at each corner using a depth stop on the drill bit and used sheet metal snips to cut the metal out as I didn't want to create sparks....even though I did it this way, I did have an extinguisher nearby though...=)
#11
Why would it matter if the tank is full? You're cutting the car's body, not the gastank. Plus if it was completely full it couldn't "explode" anyway.
I used an angle grinder and very carefully plunged through the sheet metal. If you've used a cutting wheel before and are able to brush your teeth without much difficulty, you can probably handle it.
I used an angle grinder and very carefully plunged through the sheet metal. If you've used a cutting wheel before and are able to brush your teeth without much difficulty, you can probably handle it.
Last edited by MikeGyver; 07-26-2009 at 05:18 PM.
#12
Don't use the bucket. 97ss 383ci D1 MM6 Moser_12. Twin Walbro 255 lph pumps with pump #2 switchable. I have sucked air with pump #2 with about 1/8 tank and hard corner. I switch it off @ the driver seat. I usually keep the tank filled +1/4. It is OK with having both pumps in operation with a BAP on pump #1. I always run both pumps. I was thinking of engineering a bulkhead around the pumps, but, a fuel well would be best due to the design of the stock gm tank. Also, I went thru the rear pan for access. Pump unit is super accessable for maintenance and easy removed. I did my own twin pump design and plumbing. B.
#13
Thanks for the help guys. My dad and I did the trap door yesterday and it went well. I was really worried about it because I was remembering a story a friend told me how his fuel line would leak onto the top of the gas tank... was praying that I didn't have the same problem / exposed gas on top of the tank while the sparks were shooting everywhere. Used the bucket, no fires, all was good.