mrmint69

I only mentioned a plugged cat since so many people see something wrong and run out and buy tons of expensive parts before truly making sure what there problem is. Take it one step at a time. When was the fuel filter replaced? If it needs done its under $20 and takes under 20 minutes if you know what your doing. Then you want to go on to step two.

ss.slp.ls1

Took me five minutes and 16 bucks to do it two days ago, when I was suspicious of low fuel pressure. That was before the car died of course.

Injuneer

A plugged cat would not cause the fuel pressure to drop to 28psi.

ss.slp.ls1

So I guess the only thing there is to do is replace the pump and/or fpr. No one commented on my post on whether the racetronix pump-only kit was what I needed. For the fpr, AZ good enough?

edit: I ordered a new fuel pump kit from Granatelli:
http://www.granatellimotorsports.com...ay.php?gid=153
It comes with a Walbro 255 lph pump. I should get it tomorrow, $128 shipped.

mrmint69

These cars are know for having several problems at once so maybe its a weak pump along with other issues.

ss.slp.ls1

Yeah, I've learned that unfortunately. All I know is that the pressure is too low, so once that is cured it will be on to step two, if required. I'm crossing my fingers.

ss.slp.ls1

Fuel pump install was straight forward. Pump primes, fuel pressure is back to normal now for koeo.
Only thing is, the car won't start. It's doing the same thing as it did when I tried to start it after it died on the freeway. It cranks, and when I stop cranking it, it feels like its still trying to fire for a few seconds afterwards. The only abnormal thing I can see is a burned wire going to the oil pan, above the oil plug, something like the oil switch. But I was told that wire isn't necessary to start my car.
I did the spark test using the icm terminals, everything checked out. Checked the grounds by the coil, they seem to be ok. Checked the fuses real quick, didn't see anything there either. I don't know what's up.
What could cause a car to instantly lose all power during WOT?

Injuneer

Have you scanned it for codes? Try that first, then clear the PCM by pulling the PCM BAT fuse for 30 seconds. It's possible that the low fuel pressure has caused elevated long term fuel corrections, and the engine is flooding on cold start. Did you try starting it with the accel pedal on the floor, to put it in "clear flood" mode?

ss.slp.ls1

When I installed the fuel pump I had the battery disconnected, that has the same effect as pulling the pcm bat fuse correct? I tried to scan for codes but I am not getting any. Can the car set a code without the car being able to run? I tried part throttle while cranking, but not WOT, I will do that.

Injuneer

Your codes and fuel trims have been cleared. There are certain codes that will set when the engine is trying to start... like the Opti high and low res pulse codes, and the ingniton control codes. A lot of the other stuff like EGR requires the engine to be running, under very specific road condtions.

ss.slp.ls1

So I guess I just have to keep troubleshooting...

How do you test for spark at each plug? I heard about a little tester with a blue light, or should I just put something in the boot and see if it arcs to the block?

Is there a way to test the coil, besides using the spark test? I was told that AZ can test coils, can a 97 coil be tested? The one on shoebox looks different.

I am getting adequate fuel pressure, is there a way to test if the fuel is actually going past the rails into the engine?

Should I open up the valve covers and look for anything out of the ordinary?

When the car died, and I forced it to limp off the freeway, it was missing, backfiring, and the manifolds were glowing, which I was hoping was just a failed fuel pump. Could a failed fuel pump damage something else? Should I take off the exhaust to see if its clogged? Will it run with only exhaust manifolds?

If anyone else has other troubleshooting ideas, let me know. If it comes down to it, I guess I will pull the opti and see if my newly installed piece crapped out on me.

ss.slp.ls1

I installed a new coil and had the ICM tested and it passed. Also tested the battery. I removed spark plug #1 and it looked normal, not fouled. I had a friend turn the key and I could see the plug sparking (shocked the s*** out of me too). I can turn the engine over by hand, I was trying to see if it was locked. I sprayed some starter fluid in the throttle body, no change. The engine cranks strong, turns over, but doesn't start. Checked all the fuses under the hood, all good.
I don't know what else to test.

mrmint69

Sounds like you are stuck. I changed the fuel pump and cranked and cranked for 3 days and gave up. My girlfriend went out 1 week later when the tow truck showed up to take it to a repair shop and thought she would try it for the hell of it and it fired right up. Give the keys to someone else or turn the key with you opposite hand if all else fails. Sounds stupid but it worked for me more than once. You figure

ss.slp.ls1

Two week old opti...and it failed. I didn't have an E4 torx socket when I had ordered my new opti and I forgot to thread lock them... Needless to say, I found my rotor complete disconnected, both screws had back out. I fixed it and the car fired right up. I'm gonna put the rest of the stuff back on tomorrow; alt, wp, etc. I'll take it for a spin and post the results.

ss.slp.ls1

Well I took the car for a spin, it runs, doesn't seem to pull like I would like it to. Seems to have flat spots, and some slight stumble. I don't know if the opti was damaged when the rotor was loose. I haven't taken pressure readings with the new fuel pump yet, I will. No codes yet so I'll have to wait and see.