Hey you guys im new to the Community, I've been checking this site out for awhile now- reading a lot of you guys comments in regards to mechanical problems. However I just registered and made an account today because I'm in need of some help.

So my car was running just fine after I purchased it from someone no later than 2 months ago, it has 175k miles on it and ran great. He told me that the car runs hot when it idles but goes down once you accelerate...In which left me to ask, do it cut off when it get too hot while idling, he said no, it never shuts off and after a few days of driving it- turns out to be true. Me falling in love with this z28, I got tired of seeing the gauge run hot and decides im going to fix the problems...

I changed both motors to the fan in front of the radiator
flushed the coolant, changed the thermostat, and also replaced the sensor inside of the water pump
that wasn't the problem
I then figured it just might be the water pump itself, I changed it and put a new one on...before taking off the old water pump I discovered I didn't put the new thermostat in, and that I slipped up and kept the old one inside. in which left me now with a new thermostat and water pump to put it in.
Once I installed those two parts and put everything back together, the car fired up right up fine.
I took it for about a good 15-25 minute drive to see if I fixed the problem, and to my surprise the temp gauge didn't dare to move pass 180 degrees.
As im feeling good about the work I put in, I hit a nasty bump...and all you know WHAT broke loose.
My car literally started shaking for a quick second then cut off.
After a couple of time of trying to start it, it wouldn't turn over at all but it was cranking.
So now im stuck in traffic not knowing what to do ANTIL I tried it one last time and gave it gas and it started, but in order for it to stay ON I have to keep giving it gas,
TO MAKE A LONG STORY SHORT, I made it home constantly giving it gas even when I stopped at a red light.
I get home to do some research, and all im seeing is optic spark this optic spark that...so im kind of bombed out at this point.
So I get back under the hood of my car, Now discovering that the piece from the elbow of thee intake manifold hose had fallen out.
So I didn't try starting my car again until I received the part...it was a trick flow elbow from Summit Racing and I also purchased the k&n cold air intake and installed the both. Unfortunately, I still didn't get a start, just a crank... Mind you im in Vegas and it was super cold during those three days I didn't try starting my car. I don't know if that matters but im just giving the additional information for the correct answer.
So trying to figure out the problem I changed
the spark plug
fuel filter
battery/alt
tested the ignition control module at auto zone and passed
I also did multiple sound checks to see if my fuel pump was coming on and it did every time.
I then pressed the fuel bleeder valve down to see if the gas would come out, and none seems to come out at all.

Now I'm Stuck???

P.S the attachment below, I discovered this fuel line going under the egr sensor I think?
what made me check that fuel line, was it being cracked from where I pulled it off from...I tried blow through the fuel line and I couldn't
so I cracked it opened and burnt black powder came out of it



these two lines that im holding was connected

same line

same line

and it goes into that

 

As far as what you feel may be a fuel line (I can't tell from the photos) does it come out of the large diameter corrugated cover for the fuel lines? There are three lines in that bundle - fuel supply, fuel return to tank, and EVAP canister purge line. The EVAP line is not a fuel line, it's pulls gas tank fuel vapor out of a charcoal canister in the driver side rear fender. It connects to a pipe that routes around the front of the engine and connects to the EVAP purge solenoid. If you look at your last photo above, you can see the nipple on the solenoid that the line connects to.

The "Shoebox" site has a lot of photos and diagrams of the various systems. This shows the EVAP line:

http://shbox.com/1/1995_evap.jpg

If the inlet elbow fell off, you basically lost the mass air flow sensor (MAF) that tells the PCM (computer) how much air is entering the engine, so it can determine how much fuel to flow through the injectors. If the MAF is lost, the PCM defaults to "speed-density" to allow the engine to run. BUT.... the speed-density system requires two critical pieces of data from the sensors. One of those is the inlet air temperature. That sensor is in the elbow you lost that connects the MAF sensor to the throttle body. That would explain the engine running extremely poorly requiring constant application of the throttle to keep it running until you got home.

When you replace the inlet elbow, did you replace the inlet air temperature (IAT) sensor and reconnect the harness wire?

http://shbox.com/1/iat.jpg

 

I-never-lost-the-elbow-i-lost-the-stick-inside-the-elbow????

 

I-think-it-was-the-evap-line-i-showed-in-the-pics-but-nothing-was-going-through-it-because-it-was-clogged

 

Your description of what part you lost was unclear (“it was a trick flow elbow”).. You only mentioned replacing it with with an aftermarket brand. If you had the STOCK rubber elbow, you apparently lost the noise silencer tube the sticks down vertically in front of the engine. Losing that leaves a large hole in the bottom of the elbow, allowing a large quantity of unfiltered air to bypass the MAF sensor, throwing off the fuel the PCM supplies. Also affects the accuracy of the IAT sensor.

You didn’t need to replace the stock rubber elbow if you lost the noise tube, just had to plug up the hole so no air could enter. Many years ago removing the tube was a popular modification, because some people felt it would improve air flow through the elbow and it made it easier to remove and replace the elbow for maintenance.

At any time trying to solve the no start problem have you scanned the PCM for diagnostic codes? At any point has the “SES” light come on?

When the starter is cranking the engine, do you have spark at the plugs?

You need to put a fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve to verify fuel. When you turn the ignition key to “run”, the pump should run (prime) for two seconds, then shut down. The fuel pressure should reach at least 40 PSI. When the pump stops, pressure should drop slowly, if at all. If you lose 10 or 15 PSI rapidly, there can be a faulty check valve in the pump, or leaks in the system. If it’s the check valve in the pump, you can overcome the loss off pressure by cycling the key back and forth rapidly between “off” and “run” several times, then immediately turning the key to “start”.

Is there a heavy fuel smell when trying to start the engine?

Is the “SECURITY” light on at any time other than during the 3 second “bulb check” when you first turn the key to “run” or “start”. There is a function in the PASS-Key II security system that can prevent the PCM from receiving the “fuel enable” signal from the theft deterrent module (TDM). That problem would also set a diagnostic code in the PCM.

 

There is normally no flow in the EVAP purge line. Under certain engine operating conditions, the PCM opens the purge solenoid the hose connects to, and intake manifold vacuum pulls air through the charcoal canister in the rear fender to remove the captured hydrocarbon vapor, and burn it in the engine.

That line being disconnected would not affect engine starting unless the purge solenoid was stuck open.

 

I haven't gotten a diagnosis test, someone suppose to come by this afternoon with a fuel pressure test to diagnose it. I just checked to see if the security light stays on during the bulb check and it checks out. The only light that stays on is the check engine, , check gauge and the abs inop. For the SES light it haven't came on at all. I also just went under the hood again to check the fuel line and seen that its bent.

 

The “SES” light is the “check engine” light. It comes on when there are active codes in the PCM.

The question was does the “SECURITY” light stay on AFTER the bulb check?

Note that the 1995’s have a 16-pin OBD-2 style data link connector (DLC), but the PCM is OBD-1. You have to use a scanner with OBD-1 capabilities. Most auto parts stores that check for free do not have an OBD-1 scanner. But they get confused by the 16-pin DLC, try to hook up an OBD-2 scanner and it won’t connect.

To use an OBD-1 scanner you need an adapter for the connector or you need to jumper the pins:

http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg

 

yea I already tried using my odb2 scanner and it didnt work...but how do you jumper the pins? and no the security light doesn't stay on after the bulb check

 

If you want help, you need to:

- read what I write carefully and completely

- you have to answer ALL the questions I ask

- you have to actually open and look at the links I post - the one at the bottom of my last post above has a photo, showing EXACTLY how to jumper the pins. Did you actually open the link in post #2 that shows the details of the line that seemed to be in your photos.

 

I've been reading what you've been jotting down fluently...I greatly appreciate your help and time.
Moving forward I have a nice update!!!
I went to purchase a fuel pressure test and put it to work.
I place it on the "fuel valve" or shredder Valve (I know im not mechanically correct with that one )
but after doing so, off the rip I noticed a change in the fuel valve as I was placing the tester on there, it was way more pressure- It starting shooting out
For some reason, I just knew it was going to start after that. But I still didn't go for trying to start it right away. I followed through with the test, to see how much pressure I actually have...it shot straight up to 40 psi then gradually went down after I turned the key off. I had my girl try starting it and it fired right up!
Purchased a new fuel pump for nothing!!! but still feel good to have it.