I have a problem with the passenger window switch. I was working on my speaker on the passenger side and closed the door accidentally smashing the old connector so i went to a junkyard and got a connector straight from the other Camaro and got home and plugged it in correctly. When i did that all it did was roll down. I tried switching the switch and it does the same thing so it’s not the switch. I’ve played around with the wiring a bit and can get it to go up but when i do that it doesn’t want to go down. I’m a a point of frustration and need help because the wiring diagrams are confusing and i don’t know what makes it so the window will go up and down. I’ve also checked the relay and tried switching them and it’s not that either. I have no one willing to help me right now because they have problems with there cars so i need some guidance. I have no ac either so that’s my ac and living in Florida doesn’t help the situation either

 

First off, lets get some more information. What was the connector that you smashed and how did you replace it. Did you splice the old wiring to the wires of the new connector, did you replace the old wires in the new connector body or did you replace the whole harness? What year car did you get the new connector from, was it the same as what you were replacing?

By "played around with the wiring" what do you mean. Did you just wriggle the wires in the connector? Did you try to operate the passenger window from the driver side switch to see if the window worked correctly? If you can answer some of these questions, it will help guide a person to find what is working and what is not. Not sure what drawing you're working with, so I attached a copy from the 1995 service manual.

 

I spliced the old wires into the connector. I don’t know the year of the car i pulled it from the junkyard i went to only thought they had the car before taking the $4 entry fee for me and my friend. And by playing around with the wiring i mean the picture above. That is what will make it go up from the switch. If all the wires are connected to their colors it will make it go down. It doesn’t go both ways. I was told the year could differ but could sub model also? Because i have a z28 and i pulled it from a v6

 

I also don’t see the attachment from the service manual

 

My apologies, it seems the drawing didn't get attached. I've added some additional information to it that may help. There are two brown wires going to switch. One is a 12V power source when the key is in the run position, the other goes to the window motor. It could be possible if these two wires were crossed, the window would go down and not go back up. The first thing you're going to need to do is identify the 12V brown wire. Next, you should be able to connect the wires color to color making sure the brown wires are connected as shown on the second page of the attachment. The connector face on the drawing is shown as it would face you with the switch removed from the connector and the wires coming out the back of the connector.

Something else I noted from your picture is the connector does not appear to match the drawing. Compare to the original connector to see if they're the same.

 

How would i identify the 12v brown wire? I have a volt ohm reader but not entirely sure how to use it. I’m new to the electronic side of the car world. And the connector in the picture is the same shape as the one in the attachment you sent it’s just at a weird angle

 

Set the meter on volts and touch one of the leads to the positive terminal and the other to the negative terminal of the battery to check that the meter is working. Then connect one of the meter leads to a brown wire and the other lead of meter to a body ground. With the ignition in the run position, the meter should display a 12V reading like it did when testing for voltage at the battery. The brown wire that has 12 volts should be connected to the brown going to terminal "A" on the connector. By the way, the meter should have two settings to test for voltage. DC will have a solid line with three dots underneath it and AC will have a curved line or what is called a sine wave symbol.

I was more concerned with the location of the wires on the connector. Basically, are the colored wires in the same places on both connectors?

 

 

After looking at what you have connected in this picture and you say the window goes up, if you separated the blue and brown wires you have connected together and connect both the browns wires and dark blue wires together color to color it should work correctly.

 

I will be sure to try this when i get home after 10pm. If anything is there someway i can reach out to you if i need some more help on this?

 

Also, is there a diagram for the switch itself telling me which posts connect to which? And you’re saying connect all the wires color to color making sure the browns are with the right browns it should work or?

 

Yes, the drawing I attached to the post above has both the switch circuitry and how the wires are positioned in the switch connector. There are letter references on both drawing that shows this information. I've been thinking about the brown wires being crossed. I failed to look at the schematic before the door switch to follow the circuit path and when I did, I came to realize doing this would have created a short to ground between the tan and brown wires when the ignition switch was turned to run. Bottom line, find the brown wire with 12 volts and wire the connector has shown in the drawings. If the window motor does not operate properly, check the switch contacts to determine if damage has occurred to them.

 

What setting to i want the volt ohm reader on when testing this?

 

Are you talking about checking the switch contacts? If so, I would set the meter on Ohms and read between the connector terminals of the switch contacts. You should have continuity between terminals "C" and "E" and "B" and "D" with the switch not activated. When the switch is in the down position, you should no longer have continuity between "C" and "E" terminals, but now between terminals "A" and "C". When the switch is in the up position, you should no longer have continuity between "B" and "D" terminals, but now between terminals "A" and "D".

 

I made it go both up and down. I have to hold the button on the drivers side for the passenger window down and then the passenger side button will allow the window to go both up and down