HELLO need help removing and changing fuel pressure regulator. Oil Was smelling with gas and fuel pressure Was bleading fast. Working in this cars is a pain in The a what I need to change it. Tools etc?

 

Are u sure it's the regulator tho,bcuz I think if u have gas in your oil,that can be a leaky injectors too,u can Use a fuel pressure test to test the regulator too

 

Interesting.... we actually covered this (rapid pressure bleed down, leaking fuel pressure regulator, leaking injectors, etc.) , in detail, in post #5 of this lengthy thread, many months ago:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/gen...96-lt1-882316/

You can remove the fuel pressure regulator with the fuel rails still on the engine, or with the rails off the engine.

First - release the fuel pressure by pressing the core of the Schrader valve. This should be done with a COLD engine, to avoid a fire. Wrap a shop cloth around the Shrader valve to contain the fuel that will squirt out.

There is a bracket that holds the hard metal fuel supply and return lines. Loosen the screw in this bracket so the return line will slide freely. Hard to release, because the screw that holds the bracket has the screw head facing downwards.

Remove the rectangular "C" clip that holds the metal return line to the fuel pressure regulator, and slide the metal line out of the regulator. Should be an o-ring on the line. DO NOT LOSE THE C CLIP.

Using a torx T27 bit, in a socket, loosen the single screw that holds the FPR to the fuel rail. DO NOT LOSE THE SCREW.

Pull the FPR out of the end of the rail. There should be an o-ring and a small filter on the end of the FPR that sticks into the rail.

 

OK Just did the FPR change. I dint bleed pressure because it was really hard. I remove fuel rail and some injectors stayed connected to the engine. I took old FPR off and put the New one. I put the O ring in the FPR and oil around it. After installing New FPR found some extra parts that the FPR came with. Not Really sure what they are but the seam to be big metal rings and the older one dint have those rings. Gonna try to post pictures. I took o rings that stayed in the fuel rail and installed in the injectors again.

 

those are the rings

 

The FPR was leaking after driving few miles. The vaccum line was smelling like gas. I check injectors but didnt find any leak

 

The injectors should have clips that keep them in the rails.

Unclear if your old FPR was "leaking after driving few miles" or the FPR you just installed is leaking. If it's the new one, where is it leaking? Where did you get the new FPR?

 

When I did mine mine came out perfect no leaking wondering wat went wrong

 

In the picture, the piece toward the bottom looks like a replacement for the stock clip that holds the metal return line to the FPR. Did you reinstall the stock clip?

I probably removed mine, installed replacements (adjustable), reinstalled the stocker 5 times with no problems, and did it without pulling the rails.

 

Yes I reinstall the stock clip. The old FPR was leaking after driving around 4 miles but not went the car was cold! Did pressure test and must of the time it was ok. I lift fuel rail and 2 injectors stayed connected to the engine the O rings stayed in the fuel rail. I Remove the O rings and Install them back to the injectors. And put all back together. Testing the systeam put car in run" fuel pump primes and I check for psi and it was 50psi and stayed there I checked the FPR box and the opperating pressure was 45. I turn the car to start and and turn off car and pressure drop really fast to 20psi and stayed there. Going to check Fuel rail tommorrow and injectors again. Went I start the car I was hearing a whistling sound like a Vaccum leak. The New FPR is alot smaller than the old one maybe is reading w/out Vaccum? But pressure bleading fast cant mean a vaccum leak . Any thoughts what should I look for??? Pretty sure I Install FPR ok. Went I romoved fuel rail and injectors didnt stayed in the fuel rail that means? How can I remove injectors out ? I try But they are really hard to remove. Thinking of changing all O rings.

 

Sounds like you are missing 2 metal clips that hold the injectors in the fuel rail. The injectors are just pushed into the intake, with o-rings at the top(for the fuel rail seal), and bottom(for the intake seal).

The fuel pressure dropping off fast, could be you have a leaky injector, or the check valve in the pump has gone bad.

Try pulling the fuel rail, along with all injectors. Turn the key to run, so the fuel pump primes, and see any of the injectors leak fuel. Make sure you do this with a COLD engine, you don't want a fire, if there is a leaky injector.

If no injectors leak, as long as you have the rail pulled, check to see if all of the injectors spray. You will need someone to help you with this! Put the fuel rail in a 5 gallon bucket, and have someone turn the key to start the car. As they do this, you take a look at the fuel spraying out of the injectors. Each should spray with a similar looking cone shaped pattern.

Hope this helps

 

Unfortunately, we've already been through this, in extreme detail, in his much earlier thread.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/gen...96-lt1-882316/

 

My buddy put the car to start and all injectors shoot gasoline. That means that they are leaking??? if a line in the evap system is leaking it can cause the pressure to bleed fast? because Im pretty sure I have a line in the evap that is leaking. if you ask why. The temperature out side was in the 110° F and the car was at 3/4 and it dropped to 1/2 and a half and you was able to smell a little bit of gas around the car & Driving the car to my house same day the car was drinking the gasoline and a whistling sound was coming from the EVAP canister area.

 

If you turn the key to "start", and the starter is cranking the engine, the injectors are supposed to pulse ("shoot") to supply fuel to start the car.

To test for leaking injectors, turn the key to "run" (not "start") and let the fuel pump prime. After the fuel pump shuts off, look for drips from the injectors. That would indicate a leaking injector.

The EVAP system vents gas fumes (hydrocarbon vapors) from the fuel tank. There should not be any liquid fuel in the EVAP system. If you have a habit of trying to overfill the gas tank, it is possible that wet fuel enters the EVAP vent line from the tank. Then the canister saturates, and you get liquid fuel in the vacuum line when the EVAP purge solenoid opens, causing the engine to run rich.

On a very hot day you get more vapor from the fuel tank. If you have an overheating fuel pump, you will get a lot of vapor. If the vapor quantity is more than the EVAP system can handle, there is a pressure relief valve that will open and vent fuel vapor (and smell) directly to the atmosphere. See the "vent valve" in Shoebox's photo:

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_wiring.jpg

You should not smell fuel at any location on the vehicle. The EVAP system traps the fumes from the tank, and nothing should be leaking any fuel.

Since you installed the fuel pressure regulator, have you checked the fuel pressure? Erratic fuel pressure could be causing the erratic idle you talk about in another thread.

 

It was a vaccum leak. I fix it and pressure stays at 45psi. Pressure stills dropping fast, I Check FPR and is not leaking. In hot days the car eat the gasoline still cant find the problem. The car was put in the run mode and it shoot gasoline. Fuel pump prime and they all shoot.