SSTAT

Thanks!

SSTAT

I went down the algorithm in the service manual, no joy for getting the dash 'brake" light out. Anyway Ive got bigger issues now. I thought about starting a new post but all the above may be relevant so here we go. Again the car has always started right up, Ive driven it about 20 miles twice. After a few days I went out to just move the car to a different spot and I got no crank, no dash lights (but they do come on when I hit unlock button like they should) and I have these random codes the car has never had before p1626, p1133, c1223, c1221 (strangely no more C1244). The first relates to an antitheft issue that could cause a no crank but it just makes no sense. I tried the spare brand new key that came with it no luck. I've never touched anything antitheft on this car. Ive looked all of those codes in the 96 manual and none of it makes any sense. The only things I did to the car between now and the last time I drove it was plug in the fog light switch (above the radio), install the back seats, and ran a power wire from the interior fuse panel (AACY) to the exhaust cutout which is working. I unplugged both, made no difference. The radio, HVAC fans etc work fine. Like Ive said I have pulled and replaced this motor now 8 times, never had a single check engine light. The wiring in the engine compartment and under the dash is stock and untouched. Ive always been super careful with the harness and there has been no trauma. None of this makes any sense including the brake light algorithm giving me no answer. I am beyond frustrated and scared this thing is now bricked. It just seems there is no way I suddenly have all these random codes. Its like theres a mouse in there just eating random stuff (there isnt). I called my tuner to see if this could be the computer dying, He said they only die while being tuned. Its been almost three years now restoring this car. Im running out of gas. Sorry about the wining. - Any help appreciated.

JakeRobb

Go back to that service manual and follow the steps for P1626. There are a few different ways things could go bad in that system.

Then reset codes and see what comes back. Then repeat.


Good luck!

SSTAT

Thanks so much for the replies. I am stuck on the dash light thing. I put a new aftermarket steering wheel on it during the restoration and didnt realize I needed to take out the clockspring (I know), so I kept trying to tighten the nut to get the wheel closer to the column before I figured it out... i tightened it pretty good. Given the dash lights coming on must be triggered by the key/column and the vats wires also come from the column is it possible I damaged these wires somehow by doing that? Though I never removed the locking plate so its hard to believe I could have bent that badly enough to crush wires. And again it ran fine for a while before this happened. The car only has 50k miles on it and theres no vats light so I just don't want to believe its a vats issue. Ive posted this on 4 different sites and not one person has responded that they also had the dash lights out. I feel like if I find the cause of the dash light issue I might find the problem. Thoughts?

SSTAT

OK, I dont understand this but here it is. While researching this problem I came across a post suggesting to light probe the fuses to really make sure they are good rather than just looking at them (which I did). I gave it a shot and sure enough the dash light fuse was bad. Looked normal but whatever. So i replaced it, got in the car and turned the ignition on and voila dash lights. Then I looked to see if now I have a security light to account for the P1626. No security light. So I thought what the hell and tried to start it. IT STARTED RIGHT UP!. OMG. Can this be right? It must be cuase Im lookin right at it! (to quote my favorite youtuber). I cant believe GM would design this thing so its completely bricked if the dash light fuse is out?? Discuss...

Injuneer

Well done !

Which specific fuse - #9-GAGES or #16-I/P DIMMER? #16 just controls the light bulbs.... #9 also powers the BCM, brake switch assembly, instrument cluster, DRL module.

SSTAT

It was #9. The BCM is part of VATS so maybe thats how I got the P1626, and no security light just because all the lights were out. And I think the fuse was blown by the power wire I ran, its the only thing that changed. I read a post by a guy who blew the #9 fuse by running a power wire from the IGN for a line lock (mine was run from ACCY). Thats when I went and looked at all the fuses but again #9 appeared to be normal at the time. Strange though that the cutout kept working despite this blown fuse. Any suggestions for a 12v source in the cabin? Of course I had one coming into the cabin from the battery when I was racing but I tore all that stuff out when I restored everything. I can run it from the battery again its just a pain in the butt.

Injuneer

IGN spade lug is protected by #9. ACCY spade lug is protected by #14 - WIPER/WASH

http://shbox.com/1/ignswschematic96.jpg

There's a BATT spade lug powered by #11 - BATT/ACCY, but that is unswitched (constant) from the battery.

SSTAT

Thats wierd. I had mine plugged into ACCY but it blew #9. Oh well. Im just so relieved shes alive. Thanks again all!

SSTAT

That diagram from shoebox is awesome. I sent him $50 a few months ago for all his awesomeness.

Injuneer

25 years of Shoebox… a blessing to the LT1 owners. He's earned it.

Than you.