I am a big guy (I know, its not going to help my 1/4 miles times.. ahh).. I am both tall and wide.

The car is not completly uncomfortable. There are 2 things I need to change to make it very comfortable. First, the seats were prety wore out when I get the car. there was a tear in the side of the seat. I later found out that is there becuase there is metal bars in the seat to make it feel like its hugging you, I bet thats a comon wear spot on these seats with people gettin in and out all the time. since there is almost no padding on either side it make it incomfortable, it jabs me in the sides.. not cool. but I took the seat out and the cover off and bent the bars out a little to make it lest poky, and that worked great. so that part is cool now.

the next thing (and the reason for this post) is becuase the seat does not go back enuff. Its so close to going back far enuff, another inch or so would be perfect. I am 6"4.. So how can I do this. im looking at the bottom of the seat while hooked to a battery and watching it go back and forth. If i could take the stop out, or move it. I could get another 2 inches or so out of it. I cant see whats making it stop.

has anyone ever done this?.. another option, but one I dont like as much would be to weld a small extrnsion on the metal a inch long or so onto where the seat bolts to the car and drill a hole in that then use the new holes. I fell like that might make it less strong. I dont want the thing to let go when I put it to the floor.

I would like if the seat would sit lower the the ground (to give me more head room), but I think with the seat mods I am doing now, that will be fine.


any advise?

thanks

 

People make their own seat brackets and extensions all the time. I would get a good, heavy gauge metal plate, cut it out bigger than it needs to be for strength. Drill a hole and bolt the seat track to it, THEN weld it together. Use grade 8 bolts then drill your other hole for the original seat stud on the floor. If your worried about it coming loose, locktite it. The seat should also drop down some the farther back you go, so that should take care of both problems. I doubt you'll have any problems with it letting go or coming loose. Just make sure you use a good think steel plate and have a good solid weld. Good luck and let us know what ya come up with. Pictures would be cool, possibly measurement so the next person that looks will have some information as well.


Hope you dont have any backseat passengers lmao, theres already no room back there!

 

lol. nope, no back seaters for me.. none planned anyway.

but yea. I will think about that.. thanks for the info

 

yeah, should be easy to make some brackets of your own.... never looked at the 4th gen seat bottoms, but i suspect you could adapt some thick L-brackets. i found mine for my Kirkey drag seat on 2nd gen drag car at Tractor Supply and bolted them thru the floor. very sturdy and has passed tech everywhere. also the best place to get bolts cheap.

 

This could be a safety issue here.Might build a subframe where the seat bolts to the floor.Square iron platform comes to mind.I wouldn't want to end up in the back seat looking up.My02.

 

Well I had a few mins before I went to work and I got to looking at the seat. I found what stops it from going to far back or forward. the track is bend up at the front and back and thats what stops it. I just took a hammer and a punch and bent it back down.

Locks Pushed Back Down





Where It Would Normally Hit If The Lock Was Still There, This Is As Far Back As The Seat Originall Goes.







This Is How Far Back The Seat Goes Now, Gained About 1.75", Thats All I needed, AND even if you hold the button it will not walk itself off the track, this is as far as it goes. - yea, the gear must have a stop on it as well, becuse it stops here, wich is great, prevents it from "derailing".. but still gets me the leg room I need, and its still STRONG. Just to be safe. I am going to weld a bracked on that will place new locks right there, so if my car is hit or I accelerate hard it cant push past the gear lock.





I also got the seat to get lower the the ground by a TINY bit. Just by taking the plastic out from inbetween the seat and the mount. It really does not feel much lower, but it is. I also took the support bars from the sides of the seat and bent them out more, the seat is VERY compatible now and I spend no money on it. I also swaped the driver and passanger foam and backrest cover, the driver won was riped and worn out, the pass one is in great shape!

 

Awesome I may have to try that, especially for the passenger side. It just feels too close to the dash/firewall for even average sized passengers. I've had a few complaints on it. That and the cat. converter hump, but thats another thread and has been discussed. Your reply including pictures is what makes these threads useful. (And cheaper fixes/repairs) always a plus. Also easier for people who dont have access to a welder. Glad you found a fix that worked easy for you and probably several others.

Welding a new "stop" for the tracks is a very good idea also. I would recommend anyone that does this have that done for safety reasons if anything.

 

if you do decied to do it to the pass side, you need to be sure you weld new stops on, there is nothing there but the stop to keep it from going out to far if you take them away (no gear like the driver side)..

but yea, new lock is definatly recomend all the time!

 

yea, It worked out perfectly. it turns out it goes back to far now. all I really needed was a fraction of an inch, it actually makes a huge diffrence. it goes back to far now, I cant push the clutch fully with it all the way back. for some reason I sit lower in the car to and it all works out great!