Any good lt1/performance shops in OHIO?Problems w/383
#1
Any good lt1/performance shops in OHIO?Problems w/383
Hey all ive decided Iam not smart enough to get my car running right and neither is anyone else around here so my dad has offered to let me borrow his trailor to take my camaro wherever it needs to go. Iam looking for a shop that idealy specializes in performance stuff or better yet a f-body specific place or something along those lines. Websites, phone numbers, and approx. location of said shops would be appreciated
For those that are curious my car is a 95 z28, motor originaly in a 94 that i wrecked(long story dont ask).
383 stroker/ forged eagle bottom end/2bolt main ARP Studs/ AI-Trickflow 210cc heads/Custom cam from AI/Jeff Creech tune/42lb injectors/wallbro 255lph fuel pump/BBK 58MM TB/ Lightly ported stock intake by me/ Granetelli Mass Air/ High performance hydralick roller valvetrain kit from AI (see site for details, dont wanna write it all out)/ MSD Opti cap & Rotor /K&N FIPK/ Lontube pacesetters/2.5 duals w x-pipe/2 flowmaster delta force race mufflers w dumps before axle/ 4:10gears w/ eaton posi/ten bolt rear end / SPEC Stage3+ clutch kit/RAM Billit alumunim flywheel/ 17inch ZR1's/ Stock brakes
and the problems begin...
Has a vibration at 2k RPMs, almost un-noticeable with clutch pushed in but in gear its downright scary. Switched to aluminum RAM flywheel and the vibration got worse in gear but even less with clutch pushed in. Engine does not shake if you physicaly put your hand on the intake when its running and the shakign stops about 2100RPMs.
Sometime it feels like its got 500000horsepower, sometimes it feels like 20hp. Its never the same-It can burn the tires one minute than literally a mile down the road it wont be any faster than a v6. Fuel pressure never drops below 38lbs at WOT.
Scanner shows IAC maxes out as soon as it is running and doesnt show signs of adjustment untill 3k RPM or higher. TPS is all over the place, passenger side O2 readings are more lean than driver side but not dangerous.
Sometimes(rarely) get codes for low resolution pulse(opti), Crank sensor low or no signal, TPS reading too high or low, EVAP, EGR & AC Codes, etc
I No longer work at the garage where I did (quite to finish my school stuff) so i dont have access to a scanner as often now and I dont have the code numbers wrote down.
It also drinks oil like its going out of style, something I thought would slow down after the rings were seated but it hasnt. My engine builder said he set the wring gaps loose because iam planning on running a little nitrous on it but i still cant imagine it using so much oil. I changed to umbrella type valve seals and it still didnt help also. It smokes on startup and a little if you shut it off for a few seconds than immedietly restart it. It does not smoke while under normal driver conditions or at hot idle but it some how drinks 1quart of oil every ~120miles. Cooling system is good, no oil in cooland, and no gas in oil either.
Any ideas/questions/comments are appreciated
Thanks in advance guys/girls
Aaron
For those that are curious my car is a 95 z28, motor originaly in a 94 that i wrecked(long story dont ask).
383 stroker/ forged eagle bottom end/2bolt main ARP Studs/ AI-Trickflow 210cc heads/Custom cam from AI/Jeff Creech tune/42lb injectors/wallbro 255lph fuel pump/BBK 58MM TB/ Lightly ported stock intake by me/ Granetelli Mass Air/ High performance hydralick roller valvetrain kit from AI (see site for details, dont wanna write it all out)/ MSD Opti cap & Rotor /K&N FIPK/ Lontube pacesetters/2.5 duals w x-pipe/2 flowmaster delta force race mufflers w dumps before axle/ 4:10gears w/ eaton posi/ten bolt rear end / SPEC Stage3+ clutch kit/RAM Billit alumunim flywheel/ 17inch ZR1's/ Stock brakes
and the problems begin...
Has a vibration at 2k RPMs, almost un-noticeable with clutch pushed in but in gear its downright scary. Switched to aluminum RAM flywheel and the vibration got worse in gear but even less with clutch pushed in. Engine does not shake if you physicaly put your hand on the intake when its running and the shakign stops about 2100RPMs.
Sometime it feels like its got 500000horsepower, sometimes it feels like 20hp. Its never the same-It can burn the tires one minute than literally a mile down the road it wont be any faster than a v6. Fuel pressure never drops below 38lbs at WOT.
Scanner shows IAC maxes out as soon as it is running and doesnt show signs of adjustment untill 3k RPM or higher. TPS is all over the place, passenger side O2 readings are more lean than driver side but not dangerous.
Sometimes(rarely) get codes for low resolution pulse(opti), Crank sensor low or no signal, TPS reading too high or low, EVAP, EGR & AC Codes, etc
I No longer work at the garage where I did (quite to finish my school stuff) so i dont have access to a scanner as often now and I dont have the code numbers wrote down.
It also drinks oil like its going out of style, something I thought would slow down after the rings were seated but it hasnt. My engine builder said he set the wring gaps loose because iam planning on running a little nitrous on it but i still cant imagine it using so much oil. I changed to umbrella type valve seals and it still didnt help also. It smokes on startup and a little if you shut it off for a few seconds than immedietly restart it. It does not smoke while under normal driver conditions or at hot idle but it some how drinks 1quart of oil every ~120miles. Cooling system is good, no oil in cooland, and no gas in oil either.
Any ideas/questions/comments are appreciated
Thanks in advance guys/girls
Aaron
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