Battery Relocation with Diagram
10-23-2006, 12:41 PM
#1
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Battery Relocation with Diagram
While trying to clean up the engine bay I have found that the coolant resevervoir is connected to the battery tray. While looking to clean up the engine bay I have decided to relocate the battery to the passenger side rear spare tire well, and get an aftermarket recovery coolant tank to go in the place of the battery.
BMR makes a nice battery tray hold but I have another alternative for less than $30.00 http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+115&x=21&y=16
I have also found that you can not really run a wet battery inside the car b/c it can smell and is not wize to do. You can either run a Vent tube (Boxed in battery) or spend about $100 on an Optimim battery. In my case I will buy the new battery.
Heres a pic of how I thought the battery setup should be mocked up, I used this for reference http://www.ws6.com/batt-relocate.htm
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I do have some questions regarding the 0,4,8 guage wire, would that be adequate to use (enough power) or should different guage be used? Also, I heard I needed to get welding wire, and if I do how to I go about making the connect on the battery on other spots??? I don't want to solder anything just plug and play. where would I buy a distribution block and do I need to specify what size guage is going into the block or is it adjustable??
Thanks, any help is appreciated
BMR makes a nice battery tray hold but I have another alternative for less than $30.00 http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+115&x=21&y=16
I have also found that you can not really run a wet battery inside the car b/c it can smell and is not wize to do. You can either run a Vent tube (Boxed in battery) or spend about $100 on an Optimim battery. In my case I will buy the new battery.
Heres a pic of how I thought the battery setup should be mocked up, I used this for reference http://www.ws6.com/batt-relocate.htm
[IMG]
[/IMG]I do have some questions regarding the 0,4,8 guage wire, would that be adequate to use (enough power) or should different guage be used? Also, I heard I needed to get welding wire, and if I do how to I go about making the connect on the battery on other spots??? I don't want to solder anything just plug and play. where would I buy a distribution block and do I need to specify what size guage is going into the block or is it adjustable??
Thanks, any help is appreciated
10-23-2006, 12:48 PM
#2
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
http://www.wiremyamp.com/servlet/the...-0-ga.,/Detail
Heres the Distribution box
Heres the Distribution box
10-23-2006, 02:27 PM
#3
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Location: Six Mile, SC, USA
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
why add weight to the car when you can run a PC680 and loose alot more weight that is going to help and probably not provide as many headaches as relocating the battery has caused?
Stock location battery does not require all that wiring or box nor the shutoff switch that will be needed to pass any tech at a track.
Removing weight any where is better than adding it.
Stock location battery does not require all that wiring or box nor the shutoff switch that will be needed to pass any tech at a track.
Removing weight any where is better than adding it.
10-23-2006, 02:47 PM
#4
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
Shon is this the battery http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=320033432265
If so how will this battery operate on a Daily Driver car???
I know by moving the battery to the back I will proabably gain about 15lbs maybe a little more. I was planning on moving it b/c it would clean up the engine some and I would have a spot for a new coolant tank. By the looks of it I can run this battery (since it is small enough) and run a coolant tank beside it.
I am not really concerned with passing track inspections, this car will mostly see street duty 
. I figured by moving the battery to the back the extra 40lbs would help some, and it would clean up the engine bay.
If so how will this battery operate on a Daily Driver car???
I know by moving the battery to the back I will proabably gain about 15lbs maybe a little more. I was planning on moving it b/c it would clean up the engine some and I would have a spot for a new coolant tank. By the looks of it I can run this battery (since it is small enough) and run a coolant tank beside it.
Stock location battery does not require all that wiring or box nor the shutoff switch that will be needed to pass any tech at a track
. I figured by moving the battery to the back the extra 40lbs would help some, and it would clean up the engine bay.
10-23-2006, 02:55 PM
#5
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
I have that battery in my car that gets started very little and just moved it to my truck b/c that battery died and i needed to get going in a hurry and it has been in the truck for weeks and no problems. the idea is not to keep any thing on longer than needed once the car is turned off.
Why get a new coolant tank? the stocker dont weigh nothing and it works. I removed mine and put it back after I figured how much it was and the cost of getting a new one and making sure it worked like it should.
BTW, that is about $15 too much for that battery :-)
Why get a new coolant tank? the stocker dont weigh nothing and it works. I removed mine and put it back after I figured how much it was and the cost of getting a new one and making sure it worked like it should.
BTW, that is about $15 too much for that battery :-)
10-23-2006, 03:06 PM
#6
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
Why get a new coolant tank? the stocker dont weigh nothing and it works. I removed mine and put it back after I figured how much it was and the cost of getting a new one and making sure it worked like it should.
There is not alot of thought that goes into a Coolant recovery tank, a line from the radiator cap to the tank. The stock one is Ugly, black so I can see through it (I know I am lazy) and is in a Crappy spot IMO. I can get a Boxed style Coolant tank taht will fit in the battery location and wieghs nothing for like $15.00.
BTW where did you get your battery at then, I may look in to doing what your have done and leave it up front. But if I decide to move it to the back, do you think I am on the right track from the diagram.
I was told to run the 0g calbe to the starter??
10-23-2006, 03:40 PM
#7
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
Good find on the battery box!!
I have to move mine anyway. The intercooler pipes have to pass through that area. I plan to use a seperate catch can with a Griffin radiator.
I have to move mine anyway. The intercooler pipes have to pass through that area. I plan to use a seperate catch can with a Griffin radiator.
10-23-2006, 03:49 PM
#8
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
www.gotbatteries.com
I didnt look at the diagram, anybody I know that moved it to the back with a LW battery had starting problems. good luck.
I didnt look at the diagram, anybody I know that moved it to the back with a LW battery had starting problems. good luck.
10-23-2006, 05:25 PM
#9
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
0 gauge should be fine imo. i think 4 gauge would suffice with the optima. Advaced auto parts carrys 4 gauge on a roll. its 2 bucks a foot. also try local car audio shops or even best buy for the distrubition block and fittings. you should be able to relocate the batter to the back for less than 250 bucks total including the battery.
Optima red top. 130.00
battery tray for relocation 25.00
20 feet of 4 gauge 40.00
Distrubition block 20.00
2 gold plated battery terminals 10.00
1 foot 4 gauge for ground 2.00
4 gauge ring crimp terminal for ground to body 3.00
that totals $230.00 so with tax and maby a little price diffrences it should run you about $250.00
Optima red top. 130.00
battery tray for relocation 25.00
20 feet of 4 gauge 40.00
Distrubition block 20.00
2 gold plated battery terminals 10.00
1 foot 4 gauge for ground 2.00
4 gauge ring crimp terminal for ground to body 3.00
that totals $230.00 so with tax and maby a little price diffrences it should run you about $250.00
10-23-2006, 06:27 PM
#10
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
I would run 0 gauge from the batt to the starter, then run 4 or 6 gauge up from the starter to the factory the distribution box on the fender
reason for this? the shorter you can make the high draw run, the better
reason for this? the shorter you can make the high draw run, the better
10-23-2006, 07:39 PM
#12
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
I
Ok that makes since so from battery to starter to the postive ground on the fender (pink + box) and I am done????
That would mean I don't beed a Distribution block??? Where would the alternator go to, to the same + box???
would run 0 gauge from the batt to the starter, then run 4 or 6 gauge up from the starter to the factory the distribution box on the fender
reason for this? the shorter you can make the high draw run, the better
reason for this? the shorter you can make the high draw run, the better
That would mean I don't beed a Distribution block??? Where would the alternator go to, to the same + box???
10-23-2006, 08:07 PM
#13
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
yes, as long as the cable from the starter to the box is larger then the cable from the alt, that will work fine, but if routing allows, you could connect it to the starter if so desired
10-23-2006, 10:05 PM
#14
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
The diagram you posted up is waaay more complicated than it needs to be. Here's what I did:
Basically, you wire the battery to the starter with a 0/1g wire. Then, get a short 4g wire and piggyback that one on the starter post where you mounted the battery cable, and run that to the alternator. From the alternator, just run a 10g wire from the alternator to the junction box. Works flawlessly...
Basically, you wire the battery to the starter with a 0/1g wire. Then, get a short 4g wire and piggyback that one on the starter post where you mounted the battery cable, and run that to the alternator. From the alternator, just run a 10g wire from the alternator to the junction box. Works flawlessly...
Last edited by FuryZ28; 10-23-2006 at 10:08 PM.
10-23-2006, 10:25 PM
#15
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Re: Battery Relocation with Diagram
Basically, you wire the battery to the starter with a 0/1g wire. Then, get a short 4g wire and piggyback that one on the starter post where you mounted the battery cable, and run that to the alternator. From the alternator, just run a 10g wire from the alternator to the junction box. Works flawlessly...
do you guys think 10ft will go from the rear battery to the starter??
From starter to the Alternator http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
From alternator to the Junction box I could probably use this http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
Or for 10 guage
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
By the way does anyone have any pics?