T/A KID

Also, does it matter what guage is used on the - Negative on the battery located in the back?

FuryZ28

I used a 1g cable for both positive and negative, but it came with the Taylor battery relocation kit I bought. I has EVERYTHING you need to relocate your battery. You can find it here:

http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?ac...vid=4&pcid=105

As for the other wires, just go to Advance Auto/O'Reillys/Autozone/Napa and buy a 4g battery cable. The one you listed isn't gonna work. You'll need more than a 12" cable. I think the one I used was a 24" cable. For the alternator-to-junction box wire, I'd say 18" should be about right...

As for the alternator-to-junction box wires you listed, I think you have the wrong idea. I could be wrong, since my Camaro is a 93 (although I've upgraded to the 94-97 140-amp alternator), but the plug-in wire that runs to the alternator is for the voltmeter gauge in your OE gauge cluster. Both the starter-to-alternator & the alternator-to-junction box wires need to be mounted on the post (with the nut and lock washer), found on the back of the alternator. I could be wrong, as I think GM had two versions of the 94-97 alternator, but I'm just telling you what I did...

T/A KID

1 guage would work, b/c Gm high tech used 2 guage but they said the part store didn't have 0 guage which is what they wanted to use.

I don't really like the thunder racing kit b/c I would only need a few things the line from the battery to the starter and the ground line wire. Everything else in the kit I couldn't use, and I would still have to buy other wires.

Actually I think your right, I was picturing it in my head and in reality from the starter to the alternator it connects to the spot on the screw on the back, also thats where I can run the line from the alternator to the junction box like you stated.
I figured I would run 4Guage from the starter to the alternator, and 8guage from the alternator to the junction box

Correct me If I am wrong but I only need the Eyelet connection on Both Ends from the starter to the junction box??

FuryZ28

Correct, you only need eyelets on both ends with the alternator-to-junction box wire, AND the starter-to-alternator wire...

T/A KID

Bringing my old thread back, I am finally on spring break from college and this week I plan cleaning up the engine bay a little.
I am going to the local parts store tomarrow to get some cable for the battery relocation.
Heres a Quick recap
1/0 Guage from the positive to the starter, Negative to a local metal ground.
4 Guage from the starter to the back of the alternator
8 Guage from the alternator to the Junction box.
From what I have gathered thats it??
Any input fella's

Btw I plan on running it under the car now so does anyone have any ideas on how to route it or to connect it to the Body???

cjmatt

Im gonna bump this for ya t/a kid so you can get some more views as I would like your question answered as well...

Ive got another question though, what happens with my hardwired fuel pump now? I think it is designed to be wired to the alternator, but im not sure...I didnt put the kit on. it is one of the racetronix kits. Would it be better to wire it into the battery in back now that they are only a couple feet apart?

mzgp5x

Wired both of my Walbros to the rear battery not the alt. Been running for near 4 years with no problems. Also wired a KB volt-boost to pump #1. Good fuel flow. I think a rear battery location requires a good ground wire to the front. Did not work well with a frame ground. At least that's what I did, but, I located the battery in the passenger rear seat mid car. Hope this helps (97SS 383-D1)

Dave89IROC

no, you still have the highest voltage at the alt(engine running)