For the purposes of helping track down a fuel pressure bleed down, this is the process. Start there and report back what you find. Then you may be instructed to move on to the next step. I think the issue here is that Fred has a logical method of diagnosis and you are not following the process. You gotta do what these guys ask AND report back what you find before you start throwing around other ideas or trying other things. Otherwise, they are gonna loose interest and then you might find yourself on your own.

 

Gotcha! Going to check injectors in the morning!! Gonna keep Yall guys updated!

 

Well, it stands to reason that if they are leaking, they ain't working properly.

 

I plug bacl the returning line again and drop some epoxy in it. Took me around 40 minutes to do it. I try to weld the headers and it was really difficult. I drop some epoxy in it and Im not hearing any noise. Im pretty sure the epoxy is not gonna hold because the headers get really hot, not hearing any clicking noise any more. Checking the fuel cap I found that the cap is broken need to find a new one.. But I want the one that brings a key or lock in it!!! someone knows were can I find it?. The pressure falls slowly to 30 stays at 30 and goes up to 37 and stay there and then drops really really slow. and sometimes it goes up at 40 and doesn't drop. I didn't find the eletromechanic today. I'll drop my car monday. one question to get Injectors out I get out the 4 bolts it haves and done? The error that Im getting checking for sensor is "Error communicating with Vehicle" gonna keep yall guys update

 

So you guys remmeber I talk about a gas smell?
I think a found the problem. http://shbox.com/1/evap_system.jpg In the The evap tank tube is not plugged and I can't find it. I was searching and apperently the midle tube doesn't need a line. "Fresh air inlet. There is 2 lines that travel together. Pug tube and air tube... Need help finding the Tank tube line

 

The tank tube was plugged in the air line. I change it and I fix some air leaks in the valve lines. I'll test it out if I smell gas again. Ill change the gas tank and Lines.

 

I check the canister EVAP' and found that the lines were damage and plug in wrong places 'Tank tube in fresh air outlet' I change them and Not smelling fuel any more. The only way to smell fuel is to stick my nouse in the cap. bought a new one with a key it looks sexy!!!!! I try to turn on the car today and it dint start checking for the problem found that a line that needs to be connected from the optic to the engine was unplugged. I Plug it back and it started really fast. The wire seams to be going bad. If I drive the car it stalls because the cable disconnects. Was trying to find the name but the close think I Found was inigtion coil or something like that can someone tell me the name or part# if it haves one? Was having poor aceleration and I bought a cold air intake kit and I clean the maf sensor and it seams to be running better. Still running rich. The catalyst is broken. I really not know if continue spending money or get 2 gallons of fuel and burn the hell out of it and get a 98' z28 ss. I love the car but the last owner dint take care of the car and needs alot of work. I take care of my cars. I dont want to continue driving my 05 srt4. Im getting emotional lol... I really enjoy the help guys. And that shoebox's page is a hit damn that guys deservs props. Need a how to... to plug the wire from the optic to the engine. The one that is plug to the engine is a male, the plug from the optic needs to be a female but in this times you dont know! Jk Im thinking is just a plug plug and done but I want to be sure. The car has been always hard to start went warm, it can be timming?, or inigtion module? One problem at a time like fred says. I appreciated your help guys

 

Sounds like the harness connector is missing the clip that holds it tight on the Optispark distributor. There is a replacement harness available.

EFI Connection, LLC - short opti harness

 

Thats not what is wrong. If you look in the front of the car in the right side top is the cable. little hard to reach because the waterpump is over it plugs in the front of the engine.
I wish I could take a pic and post it here. Cant do it because web forze close

 

You said is is "the line from the optic" . Assuming the "optic" is the optispark distributor, there is only one wiring harness connector, and that's the link I posted. That harness runs "to the engine", or actually a gray 4-wire connector on the same bracket as the EVAP solenoid, passenger side of intake manifold.

Another plug possibly slightly obscured by the water pump, is the crank position sensor, on the bottom of the timing cover,a little toward the passenger side. There is no "optic" function involved, and that sensor is only there for misfire detection, and does not affect how the engine runs.

Might be a good to scan the PCM, because unplugging just about anything on the front of the engine should set a code..

 

Is called ignition coil wire. Is a 10.2mm. the question is my local part store dont have a 10.2mm But the have a 11mm can I get that one? Also thinking of changing optic spark distributor.

 

You don't need ignition wires with that much insulation. Stock is 7mm, many people upgrade to 8mm of 8.5mm. That's all you need.

Why do you want to replace the distributor? What tests/diagnostics have you done to determine it is defective?

 

Seams to be good but it looks old. No need to get a new one but why not. But can i get the 11mm coil wire or the 8mm ? If I get the 8mm stock one it will run ok? Assuming it haves after market spark plug wires it dont need to be the same mm?

 

Anything larger than 7mm will work. The diameter only changes because of the thickness of the insulation.... same size wire inside. Using a wire with a different insulation thickness will not hurt anything or change the way the engine runs.

 

Ok thanks!