so i belive it may be related to my battery some how... i go to try and start the car and it cranks but then the dash goes black and if i keep holding the key the whole dash will flash on and off as of it s not getting enough power or something? help plz

 

We're starting to see a lot of problems with the ignition switch, including loose contacts and melted contacts. Shoebox has a guide to the ignition switch:

4th Gen F-body Ignition Switch Replacement

While it's called a "replacement" guide, it also describes the symptoms of some ignition switch problems.

 

its a brand new switch.

 

What condition is the harness connector in?

 

Wow, that's a lot of work to get to it. By reading Shoebox's description this is exactly what is occurring to warmeck.

 

Keep in mind that there are four sections of the ignition switch: 1) Combined Run and Accessory, 2) Combined Run and Start, 3) Run only, and 4) Start only. Any section can be faulty while the others are ok.

 

i do however see on the harness connecters some glue? idk why its there

 

ok so i havent gotten the time to go back to the dealership but i found a way to put the gm key into the igniton and try to start it. i put the blank key in and turned it a little bit just past the lock position took it out and put the gm key in. I got the same result a blinking security light and i also got a clanking noise from the passenger under dash?

 

Not sure I follow.... initially, appears you used the stock/resistor key, the starter cranked, but the dash flashed on and off.

Now you indicate you have a problem where the stock/resistor key will no go into the ignition cylinder, so you have to use some sort of non-resistor key to position the lock cylinder, then insert the stock/resistor key and then the "SECURITY" light is flashing.

The only thing that might explain both problems could be the rod between the key cylinder and the ignition switch (which you indicate was just replaced) is not adjusted correctly.

Did you read Shoebox's ignition switch writeup? Apparently there's a locking pin in the switch assembly that holds it in the lock position, so you can attach the rod correctly?

 

okay i replaced the ignition lock cylinder with a locksmart igniton cylinder and i took the 2 blank keys and my original key to the dealership to make another key. i come home and it wont turn the cylinder. so i played around with it and i seen that if i put the blank in and turn it so its not locked and take it out and put in the gm key it will turn but the security light will still blink as if the blank key is in? yes i did read shoebox guide and i followed everything corretly.