my parking brake is not ingaged but the light is on? why? thanks adam

 

I have the same "issue" turns out the brake lights are not working....in my case I have power to the lights, they all work, I have power leaving the brake switch, the turn signals work, but the lights don't get brighter when I hit the brake. been tracing it for two days

 

thanks for the info ill check them out...

 

Hmm....My light does not come on when I pull up the e-brake, but it does come on when i first turn the key when all the other lights come on.

 

My brake light was on for a while, and i never figured out why it was on, so i had my friend clear the code with his scanner and it hasn't come back at all. As for the e-brake when i pull on my e-brake my light will turn on about 2-3 seconds later. Just throwing all that info out there

 

theres a ground and power connector underneath the e-brake lever if the red brake light stays on check the connections out just move the flap over and you can't miss them....

 

check to see if your rear 3rd light is out.

 

Check the ground ob your e-brake, as soon as you pull it up it should be grounding it's self out turning on the light.



Everyone else:


There is a number of reasons that this could be happening; one reason cou;d be a bad wheel speed sensor, another reason could be that one of the lights in your third brake light is burnt out, and the last reason that I can think of right now could be that one of your callipers is seized up (stopped working)... sorry I can't be of much more help but I am tired, lol.

 

The dash "BRAKE" light (I'm assuming that's what you mean, and not the "ABS INOP" or "LOW TRAC" lights) serves two purposes...... first, it indicates the e-brake is on. Second, it is activated by the switch on the side of the ABS unit that detects uneven line pressure in the front and rear braking circuits. Could be low fluid in one section of the master cylinder reservoir, air in a line, a leaking line or caliper, or sometimes, if you've done brake work and bled the lines, the switch will get stuck, and requires a couple hard stops to free it.

 

Fred,
Would ether of these cause the "TCS off" light to be on as well for traction controled cars? I am getting the brake light and the TCS off light only, not the ABS inop, or low trac...
I will check the level in the master cylinder later, but what else could this be?
Thanks

Oh yeah, sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, I am just searching like most people tell you to do!

 

I don't know... never looked at a TCS car. Logically, if the TCS system is designed to inerface with the brake system, it would be a good idea for the system to turn the TCS off if there is a known malfunction in the braking system. But I'm not sure that's the case with the system used on the F-Body.

 

in most cars it would turn off the tcs when the amber abs light is on.. i never heard of a case of it happening with just the red brake light

 

Thanks guys,
I have to wait untill this weekend to figure out what it is, but I was driving it yesteday and on I-95 I had to tap the brakes and the bamn thing was shaking like crazy, almost felt like a badly warped or cracked rotor?? So I think it will sit untill the weekend until I get the time to see WTF is going on!

It does make sense for the system to shut the TCS off.. But it is a pain to search for that because everyone seems to contribute that to ABS problems...

Oh would a warped rotor be the cause of the effect here?
Can a warped or cracked rotor mess up the piston in the caliper?
or did a stuck caliper cause the rotor to get warped?
I guess it on isn't applying brake pressure then that means the others would need to over compensate and possible mess the rotor up that way right?

 

heres a question, does the ABS light come on when you first turn the key on? If no, the bulb for that might be bad, and you would have a problem with the ABS system

 

Yeah it comes on when I start the car but like I said it doesn't light with the problems I have now. Also, I forgot to mention above that I scanned the car with freescan and it didn't have any faults.. well it had one for the MAF but that is because I had it disconected when I was letting the car warm up to blead the coolant the other day (installed a new WP), but nothing else!