Well, here is the story, my car has been stored for over a year and hasn't been started. I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I did not hear the fuel pump kick in so I'm assuming that its gone bad. So I was wonder which pump would be the best to replace the factoty one with.

 

Check for power at your pump before jumping in and changing it Make sure your relay is working, etc.

 

Which relay is it, and how would I check if there is power at the pump.

 

i just had a walbro crap out on me after a year and 6K. so i cant reccommend those.

 

That's my point, if I do need a new fuel pump, instead of going back with a factory GM, I was going to go with a very good high flow fuel pump.

 

why not run a factory pump? weve used them on 400+rwhp naturally aspirated lt1s w/o any problems.

 

For one example, when you are running NOS you need that in line fuel pump that comes with the kit, but I was just wondering if there was a in tank fuel pump that would handle what you needed there with the in line, or it was just that a GM factory pump vs. a good after maket, dollar vs. dollar. That's what I was wondering.

 

if you are running a wet kit with the mods you have a new stock lt1 pump will be fine. if you are running a dry kit you will need the high pressure pump, and the only hi pres pumps i have seen for these cars are inline.

 

Do you know what a New GM pump will cost.

 

gm parts direct sells them for $160. i just installed one, took the 1 year old 6K mile walbro out and now the car will actually stay running.

 

thanks 93turbo5oh, I'll check everything first, then I will get a new one from gm Parts direct. How hard is the install, is there any tricks. Can you access the pump with dropping the tank????

 

Check these other sources for GM parts. gmpartsdirect has ridiculous shipping charges.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#Dal_and_Jason

 

Jason Cromer might be cheaper like Injuneer says. getting the tank out is a pain in the ***, but its doable. its a day job. you dont have to remove the rear end, but you have to unhook everything except the torque arm and lower control arms. some people cut an access panel in the hatch. i dont because i dont want to cut my car.

 

I just changed mine a few weeks ago and I dropped the tank....the biggest thing for someone going this route may be cutting the exhaust then rewelding it back together...you can also use wide band clamps on the exhaust if you don't have the capability to weld on thin metal...I did it with a plain old wire feed welder just fine.
Here's a link and some pics / tips I posted when I did mine
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=434711
Wasn't that bad, and I did not remove the brake line either, just took out a few bolts to give it room to drop with the rear end...bleeding the brakes is a pain since I have to get my wife involved and I'd prefer not to do that..hehe.

 

And speaking of which pump...I didn't hesitate to buy a Walbro as its the "gold standard" for the Turbo Buicks, never had a problem with them.
I'm certain the GS255 pump is the same exact pump I put in my Buick years ago, but its not driven that much.

With that said, is there a problem with Walbros for f-bodies? I'm sure everyone has had a problem with every pump, but want to make sure there not a common problem with them as Racetronix sells their kit as a GM replacement to dealers as well.