without doing the trap door method. i searched this forum looking for how-to on this way, but came up with nothing. well, 20 threads about trap door method, lol. which i know is easier, but i dont have a catback on the car and want to see how much more work i have to do to get the tank out.

i didnt find anything on shoebox's site either.
instructions for dropping the tank?
thanks in advance

 

someone did have a link on here few months ago where you dont have to completely drop the rear. i though tit was on installuniversity.com, but didnt see it there

 

I used this one as a reference a couple of years ago:
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/fuelpump.htm
you don't have to drop the rear completely, just let it hang as far as the brake lines allow. The tank filler neck is the biggest pain, after you swap the pump check the level guage for proper ohms before you reinstall the tank or your gas guage won't work.

 

i said the hell with it and did the trap door method. went and bought me a metal cutting wheel for 1.15 and got the hole cut out now. just trying to get the lines unhooked from each other to get the pump assembly out now. these things are a PITA, hard to get a grip on.
thanks again

 

ok i am done with it now, just one thing. after i had it all put back together and the lines clipped on, i got done cleaning up. well i found a lil white piece of plastic with a type of valve spring in it. i am not sure what it is, but i bet it is an essential part of the pump working. i will try to get a pic of it soon. incase someone might need it.

 

here is the part.
[IMG][/IMG]
i went ahead and started the car, and it ran fine. havent taken it for a drive yet though.
my old fuel psi was 35 at idle, now it is 41. so it is definetly better.