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help with valve adjustment

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Old 05-07-2007 | 05:31 PM
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help with valve adjustment

can someone explain to me the proper way to adjust the valves with the engine running? thanks.
Old 05-07-2007 | 06:48 PM
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Easy as listed here.
Old 05-07-2007 | 09:44 PM
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thanks. is this a messy procedure? will oil be spewing everywhere and should i just do with the engine cold or what? i've never done this on my own and the way with the engine running seemed easier on paper. what do you recommend?

also if i do it cold and turn the engine myself wont i have to pull the radiator and the fan out to reach the crank?
Old 05-07-2007 | 10:38 PM
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Whatever method is a personal preference. Everyone will give you a different answer. They all give the same result (though some will tell you one method is better than another).

Pull radiator and fans? LOL, you can easily reach the crank from the bottom. Put it up on ramps. It makes it easier on your back, anyway.
Old 05-07-2007 | 11:27 PM
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ha ok thanks for the info. i was hoping i wouldnt have to go through all that.
Old 05-09-2007 | 03:18 PM
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what kind of tools will i need for this?
Old 05-09-2007 | 03:27 PM
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A wrench or a ratchet w/ the right socket on it,obviously lol.

A few rags also to keep oil off the headers as much as possible.
Old 05-09-2007 | 11:40 PM
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i will not need feeler gages? if so what size
Old 05-10-2007 | 06:07 AM
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No feeler gages needed thats for solid lifters not hydraulics..

1. Warm motor [this also allows the idle speed to be lower when you do it, resulting in less oil mess]
2. Shut off motor..
3. Take off valve covers[4 bolts each side, 3/8" socket.. ]the gaskets are usually reusable, if you are careful..
4. Make 'oil catchers' out of old newspaper or tin foil, etc.[ make it like a 'U shape' 6" or so high that sets into the lip of the lower side of each cyl head] so any oil drains back into the head, not onto exhaust manifolds, etc... not much shoots out, don't rev the motor though, or a lot more will..
5. Start motor..
6. With 5/8 deep socket, loosen[CCW] each adjuster nut until it clacks, then slowly tighten [CW] until it is silent, then go 1/4 turn past that point.. Do all 16 rockers..
7. Shut motor off..
8. Remove the 'oil dams' and them throw away..
9. Replace valve covers [torque to 106 INCH LBS]
9. Done!
Old 05-10-2007 | 12:59 PM
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wow thanks alot to everyone.

one more question before i go out and do it. would doing it with the engine off (cold method) be more accurate or are they both about the same? i just want to make sure i am doing the best thing for my car in terms of power and fuel efficency.
Old 05-10-2007 | 05:21 PM
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ok so heres my problem. see if you can help me now. i start the procedure and loosen the rocker arms. theyre clacking. now i go to tighten one and it shuts the engine off completely. did i not loosen them enough to start or what?
Old 05-10-2007 | 06:29 PM
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Too tight will cause loss of vacuum. Are you doing the engine running method now?
Old 05-10-2007 | 07:49 PM
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Tighten SLOWLY 1/4 turn past where the ticking stops.. too fast it stumbles etc
Do ONE at a TIME too... don't 'loosen all of them' otherwise you can't hear the ticking..
Loosening all of them too much would be a prob[ as in valves not opening..]

Last edited by Mtrhds94Z; 05-10-2007 at 07:51 PM.
Old 05-10-2007 | 09:59 PM
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thats what i was thinking. one thing though. i made another thread before this because i messed up on the valves and the car wouldnt start. i pretty much tightened them too much. so i went thru and loosened all of them just to be able to start car in order to adjust them the proper way. if that makes sense haha. thanks for all your help though. i appreciate it. i'll try to right my wrongs again in the morning. hopefully it will work out because i have to have my car this weekend haha.
Old 05-10-2007 | 10:52 PM
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If it wont run enough to do it while running, you have to do ot the other way[statically]


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