The air is moving a bit fast for you to worry about heat soak don't you think?

 

How much HP, I have no clue...

From a Plumbing standpoint, the WS6 intake track has the least heat-soak of any stock or aftermarket intake, and the least piping losses as well due to it's overall length.

In getting into aftermarket CAIs, If the hood of a WS6 is modified and the baffles removed, the intake is one of the best ever designed.

I have my hood debaffled, and the airbox slightly modified. With the airfilter removed, and the hood closed, I can see the TB blades through the hood inlets... If a aftermarket CAI is better than that, I'd love to see it...

And I have to agree with another previous post, this topic has been BEATEN TO DEATH; OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER... catching a trend here???

 

I think that the ram air does do an effect. I say this b/c my car for ex. I have my stock air box, and when I go to the track I take the cover off and I have a Green flex pipe about 3" in diam. It is from a gutter system, something I had laying around the house. Well I zip tied it to my front air dam and kinda pointed it into my airbox, mind you it is not sealed, just pointed in the direction. I have picked up 2 .10 in the 1/4 from my little free mod. If it were sealed tight it might have better, or not. But it only makes sense that the SS box on LT1 cars (LS1 SS' ram air is a joke) will be better than a cai once you get rid of all the BS(baffles and whatnot.) But then you have this nice opening to let the water in.

 

Yeah, I've read that article before. The guy might be a tad bit more believable if he didn't use the term 'hypothesis' and 'maybe' and 'might mean' and other outs like those throughout his entire guesswork in the article. Like others have mentioned, the air is only in the intake for a fraction of a second, so it's hard to believe that the hood could actually heat it up in that amount of time. If that were true, it would be true of CAI's too. I may have to buy some gages and do my own research on this just so I can put some real data into an article rather than guesswork. I'm not saying the guy is wrong, but I AM saying that he doesn't have enough evidence to support his 'hypothesis'.

 

blah blah blah blah blah someone start throwing up some numbers or this whole thread is just BS

 

I'd bet money that a white 98+SS will have a cooler intake air temp than a black SS on a hot sunny day.

 

Right, it was the LS1 SS Ram Air I was thinking about as being pretty inefficient, I can't talk about the WS6 LS1 really. But I will say this, if you can see your TB blades through your hood, then that means your engine is going to suck in rain water easily, as well as bugs, pebbles, and everything else that could destroy your engine.

 

"With the airfilter removed"

I don't drive the car in the rain, and I always have the air filter installed when I drive.

If the baffles are only modified and not completely removed, then I don't see any issues with driving in the rain, you just won't get as free of a flowing intake.

Not to mention there are 3 different intake setups on LTX cars alone, I believe there are another 3 different styles on the LSX types as well. Gotta make sure we are talking apples to apples, not apples to oranges.

LTX types:
Std; Z/28, Formula, T/A: tube sucking air from the DS wheel well under the hood; total tubing length >3'
SS: Middle of the hood intake/airbox with 360* bend in intake to go from the inlet to the TB; total tubing length ~3'
WS6: Front intake, straight shot into the TB; total piping length <12"

LSX types:

Unknown to me.. I believe the WS6 is a straight shot similar to the LTX WS6, I believe the STD is a straight shot getting the air from infront of the radiator though, and I have no clue how the LSX SS intake is setup.

 

4 345 98 7 45,037 56 9 63

 

97FormulaWS-6 what's with you and the LTX and LSX, it's LT1 and LS1.

To many people here have to much time to sit and think about nothing. It's kinda funny that some people think the SS hood gets hot enough to heat soak. No to mention that air is moving to fast through it to really change temp anyway. Uless it is out in the sun for 4 hours then started, but the only air that will be hot is the first .01 second of it that was in the hood.

 

Because some people pick everything apart...

LTX because of the LT1/LT4... (Can refer to either)
LSX beacuse of the LS1/LS6... (Can refer to either)

And because it's normal nomenclature for me at work; when I normally post online.. how we reference families part numbers that are the almost the same P/N but different "tab" numbers.

And if you want to take it personal, just to annoy you.

 

I wrote to SLP to see if they have documentation on the design and testing of the Ram Air hoods. I'll post their response here if they respond. I've had pretty good luck with them writing back to me with tech questions...

 

like you said, you can't dyno ram air...

However, on the LT1/lt4 SS models, the ram air is actually functional as opposed to the LS1 models which is more for appearance. Even the LS1 ws6 models have a blockoff plate that prevents air from shooting straight into the intake. I imagine this was to keep water out and prevent the hood from taking in too much air and flying up over the windshield.

a typical LT1 SS will run a quicker MPH stock than a z28 or trans am, not by much, but 1-2 mph faster, and a few 1/10.

 

you can if the dyno is in a windtunnel

 

i'd like to know how an LS1 SS ram air isn't functional.