Rear control arm bushings
#1
Rear control arm bushings
I have a 1999 Camaro Z28 with a moser 9" read end and a detroit locker in the as the differential.
My car has some wobbling when pushed, such that the rear wheel is not always centered in the wheel well. I was told this was the rear control arm bushing.
My question is, by replacing this bushing, will the car be stable once again? Also, are the any other bushings that should be replaced, such that the car will not wobble around? Also, when replacing the rear control arm bushing, is there anything that will be easy or easier to replace during that time, so I can reduce the amount of labor required? I would also like to replace the differential because the detroit locker is obnoxious (it clicks when I turn). Will replacing the differential be easier if I'm already replacing the rear control arm bushing? Do any non-bushing pieces need to be replaced to return the car to its original stability?
My car has some wobbling when pushed, such that the rear wheel is not always centered in the wheel well. I was told this was the rear control arm bushing.
My question is, by replacing this bushing, will the car be stable once again? Also, are the any other bushings that should be replaced, such that the car will not wobble around? Also, when replacing the rear control arm bushing, is there anything that will be easy or easier to replace during that time, so I can reduce the amount of labor required? I would also like to replace the differential because the detroit locker is obnoxious (it clicks when I turn). Will replacing the differential be easier if I'm already replacing the rear control arm bushing? Do any non-bushing pieces need to be replaced to return the car to its original stability?
#2
Re: Rear control arm bushings
Explain the "wobbling". Do you mean the chassis moves side-to-side relative to the rear axle assembly when you push on the side of the car? Or the chassis moves front-to-back relative to the wheel/axle centerline when you push on the bumper?
Side-to-side is controlled by the panhard rod. Front-to-back is controlled by the lower control arms.
Are you running the stock LCA's? If so, you might want to consider upgrading to a set of aftermarket tubular LCA's. If you still have the stock panhard bar, consider an aftermarket tubular bar. If you have the power to justify the 9-inch, I would assume you've also upgraded the suspension components.
Side-to-side is controlled by the panhard rod. Front-to-back is controlled by the lower control arms.
Are you running the stock LCA's? If so, you might want to consider upgrading to a set of aftermarket tubular LCA's. If you still have the stock panhard bar, consider an aftermarket tubular bar. If you have the power to justify the 9-inch, I would assume you've also upgraded the suspension components.
#3
Re: Rear control arm bushings
I believe it is front-to-back. NTB said they wouldn't rotate the tires for me due to chassis movement and the guy there demonstrated what he noticed and I believe it was front-to-back, although I think it's also moving side-to-side.
I might replace both of them, as my car's in the shop now due to a slave cylinder failure. I'd like to get everything fixed.
One question, should I avoid polyurethane bushings? I read a few posts saying they're too stiff and my damage the car in the long run.
I might replace both of them, as my car's in the shop now due to a slave cylinder failure. I'd like to get everything fixed.
One question, should I avoid polyurethane bushings? I read a few posts saying they're too stiff and my damage the car in the long run.
#4
Re: Rear control arm bushings
Also, should I consider the front lower control arms? It's a 1999 Z28 with a stock engine. I'm not sure how to tell if they need replacing. I'd rather not replace them if they're fine.
I've been putting off some things for a while and I want to get them done now. These include:
new lower control arms
probably new panhard rod (now that you mentioned it, I feel it does move side-to-side... the whole thing kinda wobbles around when i'm going over speedbumps sideways on a hill)
replace the detroit locker with a detroit trutrac
The differential leaks and the locker is awfully annoying and I believe it was badly installed as there's a good bit of a gap between driveshaft movement and car movement (resulting in a small, but sudden jerk when the gears mesh). I'm not sure if it's easily fixable, from what I understand there's not any shimming.
I've been putting off some things for a while and I want to get them done now. These include:
new lower control arms
probably new panhard rod (now that you mentioned it, I feel it does move side-to-side... the whole thing kinda wobbles around when i'm going over speedbumps sideways on a hill)
replace the detroit locker with a detroit trutrac
The differential leaks and the locker is awfully annoying and I believe it was badly installed as there's a good bit of a gap between driveshaft movement and car movement (resulting in a small, but sudden jerk when the gears mesh). I'm not sure if it's easily fixable, from what I understand there's not any shimming.
#5
Re: Rear control arm bushings
Poly bushings are stiffer than the stock rubber, and do not have the cutouts that the stock rubber bushing have to allow the front and rear mounting bolts to rotate out of parallel, when the body starts to roll. As a result, they will induce some "bind" into the suspension that would impact primarily handling in corners at extreme limits. Your car doesn't appear to be directed toward going around corners at high rates of speed. For straight-line applications, drag racing, etc. there is no downside to the poly bushings. You aren't going to damage anything. I run spherical rod ends and nothing has been harmed.
I replaced the entire front end (upper/lower) with poly about 15 years ago. It's a lot of work, due to the coil-over spring configuration. Unless you have evidence of the stock rubber bushings being worn, it isn't necessary.
I replaced the entire front end (upper/lower) with poly about 15 years ago. It's a lot of work, due to the coil-over spring configuration. Unless you have evidence of the stock rubber bushings being worn, it isn't necessary.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
slothgrant
Car Audio and Electronics
0
08-22-2002 03:01 PM