Update

I took the coil off tested it and I'm getting a reading of 10.2

does this mean the coil is over heating?

 

Just a thought. Talking to a buddy he said check spark plug gap. If it's too much of a gap the coil has to work harder my gap was almost .45 maybe more and it should be .35.

Could this be a cause of the coil over heating?

 

Is it stock or aftermarket coil? Is the meter set to 1,000x (1K) ohm scale? Did you compare the results to Shoebox's coil test photo, noting his comment about still possibly failing when hot?

http://shbox.com/1/coil_testing.jpg

Just for the sake of accuracy, stock plug gap is 0.050-inches. An 0.45-inch gap is close to 1/2-inch.

 

Update

New coil ran for over an hour!

I did use shoe box that's why I knew that it should read about 8.0 but after running the coil was over 12

 

Problems again,
So coming home from work (15 minute drive) half way home the car stalled, put it in neutral and it started right up. Next day started it up drove about 3 minutes to the gas station, went to start it would start just cranks. Waited about 15-20 minutes and started up. Drove home and in garage. I got home from work started it and it ran for about an hour so I shut it down. I guess I'll just keep starting it until it won't start again and check spark, fuel pressure?

 

Symptomatic of a bad optispark, and the most likely culprit being the sensor within. When the few I have had went bad, be it oil contamination from a bad timing cover seal or coolant contamination from the shops that did service back then, the car would be difficult to start and might die out all of sudden or surge when idling. Worse, having it up and die on me while I was coasting on the expressway! Fortunately for having a stick shift I put her in neutral and was able to start her up but she would intermittently die again and I would have to keep the procedure going until I was somewhere safe.

What brand of optispark are you using?! At this stage, and based upon lots of research spanning multiple forums, you are only left with two options, Petris Enterprises if you have the later LT1 with the pin-drive optispark or if you have the spline drive optispark you can seek out the Optispark Doctor on ebay who has a few restored optisparks with reconditioned factory Mitsubishi sensors. That is it! I have read that MSD has gone cheap on materials and now their units have higher failure rates and everything else is equally unreliable, even remanufactured units from AC Delco, they don't make new optisparks anymore, those too are now unreliable with cheap parts!

 

Or.... rather than continue guessing, you could scan for codes and perform the logical sequence of diagnostics outlined in posts above.

 

I bought the opti from my local car quest. Not sure if the brand but it cost close to $300.

I've ran codes No codes show. I tried the volt meter but I am not good with it and my friend that knows them hasn't been available to help

 

$300 for a carquest opti?! It better have been a brand new manufacture and nothing reman'd. Well, for the money, I would do as injuneer states and hopefully it still does not point back to your optispark. I have played games changing out the ignition coil, ignition module, checking the fuel system only to realize in the end that the optispark was the problem, even before when I had shops "diagnose" it. It is USUALLY the suspect, especially when you are not taking electrical readings and diagnosing it "the proper way". Keep us posted.

 

Petris still has Spline Drive Opti's listed on their website.