Purplemaroz28

For those of you who have relocated your battery to the trunk, howd you do it, whered you ground the power, is there a kit out there for fbodies, and what problems did you run into?

Heatmaker

Never ran into any problems only hassle was mounting the battery tray. thrunder Racing sells the kits. I grouned it to the rear of the car. Only thing is the lights come on dim when the car is not started. But everything else is like normal.

I should also just my lights headlights are a bit dim, but I run a high powered audio system... and that plays fine with no problems.

I just removed one of the nuts that hold the bumper in place,filed it to a good luster, and attached my cable to there. Only problem with running ground cable is that it's heavy and you want to use the least of it as you can.

mike 96 ws6

Remember you have a body design that, by that design, does not utilize a solid frame structure. This can / may cause problems if you intend to use a ground dependant on that structure. It may not be as conductive as it appears.
I re-located a battery supply in the spare tire area of my WS6, but the "negative-ground" cable was directly connected to both the engine block via ground # G100 Bolted to RH side of Engine Block, same bolt used for A/C Compressor if equipped and G109 Bolted to left front frame rail. Other ground systems employed in the factory wiring can gain proper grounds thru these 2 connections, and probably either - although grounding to both is how I did it. LOL
And that's provided the factory wiring ground logic is not broken by lack of either of these points being compromised, or the factory source for grounds dependant on those channels altered.
I put a battery location in place of the spare tire {so-to-speak} because I didn't want to alter any more factory panels than what was a minimum in order to keep 'resale value' and to keep it out of veiw of the crooks. I would have rather to have had the option to have put it as descibed below, but I had 2444 watts and 2- 12" subs that had to go somewhere.
If this is not a concern for you, then I would suggest putting it dead center of where you could have put your T-tops, unless your N2O tank is already in that spot. ???
The positive cable needed to be routed on the drivers side in my case for sound system reasons, and also for clearance reasons for the PS Y-Pipe behind my LT's, {it's hard to see the routing in that picture but it's all I can find for you right now. I have a better picture of what I'm reffering to if I can find it, but you'll see what I mean when you get under there} ...but even on a factory exhaust araingment, the drivers side offers a better route in order to be sheilded from exhaust heat #1. JMO.
If you run the primary wires into the cab, it may present problems with any audio system you have, although maybe not. I relocated a battery to the trunk in 2 of my 3rd gen f-body's with no issues, radio wise. If your going to run without a high power sound system consideration, you may be able to run both primary leads thru the cabin, but I can't comment on that approach with a 4th gen body. I don't see how your going to get either of those size cables thru the firewall beside the PCM like many people run smaller circuitry, {based on the threads i've seen}. I hate drilling firewalls! I don't know about that with a 4th gen though. . I doubt it would be fun finding ""the right spot""
. The underside is a better route IMO, as long as you keep that exhaust heat thing in mind.
Hope this helps!!!

I'll try to dig up a couple more pictures that may help you.
Have fun!!!

mike 96 ws6

It may not be the issue in your case, but as I posted, the ground is very important beyond thwe light cicuit. Try going to a hard part up front with your major grounds,which will likely be towards the front subframe assm. on our cars. just my opinion and not trying to cut you out. I may be wrong... again
I've run into several PCM problems connected to a ground problem solution, and the PCM draws less current than almost any lighting circuit at PCM full load mode. If that ground side is not solid between that location and the 'battery - post' or circuitry, or a source directly contacted to that ground, and worthy of the AMP load that circuit requires, there will be a problem on the + supply to that circuit by default demand {for lack of a better word}. {In other words: the circuit has power, but cannot support the required negative ground feed ability to support that same circuit}. All this is just my experience with a few years of testing, ect. I'm not real knowlegeable with circuits like Injuneer, but that's where I learned a lot of what I know. Maybe Fred will correct me with my diagnostics, and I'm sure my technical terms are in need of a better source TIA

12SCNDZ

Why can you just run a heavy cable from the engine to a good body ground, and ground the negative battery cable to the body? All PCM related things are grounded through the body.

Frank

Boosted_Z28

The proper way to re-locate your battery to the rear of the vehicle is to use ONLY an NHRA approved "box or kit" that vents the gasses from to battery to the outside of the vehicle. Remember you are talking about now adding the battery to the interior of your car. As the battery is charged during normal driving it is contantly being charged by the alternator and as a result, explosive fumes are being discharged from the battery. Ask anyone who has had a battery "explode" on them when charging it will gladly confirm this fact for you. Taylor Wiring Products makes an NHRA approved battery re-location kit that is recommended for f-bodies and is available thru Jegs, Summit or a number of supporting sponsers on this site. Also, proper sized cables are another very important consideration since choosing ones that are inadaquate wil result in some very frustrating problems with car. There is a certain amount of current loss per a givenlength of cable and lengthing that cable adds to that loss, so upsizing the diameter of the cable used to re-locate a battey to the trunk, since it is several more feet away from its original location, is also very important. Your starter can draw several hundred amps when attempting to start your car, especially if it is hot. So the proper choice of cable, terminals and connections are imparitive. This is a case were bigger is ALWAYS better even though you sacrafice some weight gain with the heavier cable. Just my 2 cents based upon my experiences.

12SCNDZ

I believe an OPTIMA battery is exempt from this theory, due to it being a "Gell Cell". I went with a BMR mount box, red top Optima, and a Jegs cable kit for mine.

Frank

Injuneer

No. An Optima can "gas", just like any other battery, if it is overcharged.