I was referring to the very first post in that thread. I'll go back and do the tests again at the PCM to Opti connector. I sprayed all the connectors with CRC electrical connector cleaner before reinstall but I'll take them apart and check again. There was corrosion in my VATS relay that prevented it from cranking. I think I'll have to remove my lower radiator hose in order to get to the connector at the opti but I have to drain the rad anyway to replace a leaking thermostat gasket. I have a noid light kit coming at my local NAPA at noon so I can check the injectors.

This may be a dumb question but I'm no electrical system savant. When I check for AC voltage at the white pin, I connected one probe of my meter to the white pin and the other to ground, then had my wife turn the key. I had the meter set to 20 on the ACV side. That should do it, correct?

 

To check the white wire to the ICM the engine needs to be cranking.

 

I think I have good news. I took the connector of the Opti. What a PIA. I took some 1/8 stainless round stock and made a tool to reach down in there and lift the release so I could pull it out. I first checked continuity between pin 5 on the PC and the white wire on ICM. All good. I then alternated spraying the CRC cleaner into the opti-side of the connector and blowing it out with compressed air. Put everything back together and now I have voltage at the white wire. Then checked the injectors and they are firing. I also have spark at the plugs. Now it appears it's either lack of pressure in the fuel rails or the injectors are plugged. Since the fuel pump is new my guess is the injectors. Whew. There's a light in the tunnel now.

 

Borrowed a buddy's fuel pressure tester and I have 45 pounds. Have spark and I checked a few injectors and they are firing. Is it possible for all injectors to be plugged? Seems like if even a couple were working properly it would try to run. tomorrow I may try your test of pulling the rails and stick the injectors in containers to see if any gas is coming through them before I buy new ones.

 

Was it 45 PSI with the pump priming for the typical 2 to 3 seconds, then shutting down? When the pump shut down, how fast did the pressure drop?

 

Checked the pressure again. When I put the key in RUN, it goes right to 45 and then slowly drops. A couple times it stayed at about 42 for a few minutes. This was after keying it a few times. It usually drops to around 30 after a few minutes. When cranking it stays right at 45.

One thing; the tach never reads 100 as I've read it should. I thought I would not have a spark without the tach reading at least 100 but I do have spark at the plugs.

 

Rapid pressure drop could indicate several issues with the fuel system.

Has the tach ever worked?

 

no, never saw it go up. I dropped the gauge cluster once and I have no way yet to verify everything works on it correctly. Before I had voltage at the white wire, it kind of jiggled a little bit at the bottom but has never come up from the bottom position.

 

Pulled all the injectors tonight and I think I'll send them off to be cleaned and checked. Brendan at lt1350.com told me to apply power to the injectors one by one and that if I don't hear a "click" then it's plugged. I tried 3 of them and no click. I figure it won't hurt to make sure they are 100% after sitting for 25 years. When they come back I'll also have my code reader and we'll see what happens.

 

Sounds exactly like the issues I was having after mine sat for 7 years, did all the opti test and what not but came down to every fuel injector was bad. Pulled the rail and tried to start it and not a drop of fuel anywhere. Replaced em and it fired right up. Twas a good feeling

 

Yep, I'll know in a couple weeks when I get them back from InjectorRX. I didn't want to buy a cheap set of chinese knock-offs, not did I want to spencd 500 bucks on a new set. They clean and test them, put new o-rings on and send back for $22 ea. Hopefully this will be the end.

 

I hear you, I cheated out and bought a set of Chinese injectors off ebay and 2 of them pissed a river with just turning the key, took em right back out and returned them. Found a set of new Blue Ford injectors, i had read a bunch of people using whatever part # it was and had good experiences with them for like $60. Put them in and not a single issue with the fuel system since. But after all I did its got a whole new system in it now anyway. Kept the factory ones, thought about sending them off to be cleaned in the future to have a back-up set just i case.

 

Got my AutoXray scanner and it needs to be configured for the car you are scanning. It wants the 8th character of the VIN and sometimes the 4th. I saved the bill of sale from the salvage yard when I bought the donor but I can't find it so I have no idea what the VIN was. I tried all the combinations the scanner has for '95 GMM vehicles and I just get "No response from computer". Is there any way to see if a signal is being sent from the PCM to my DLC? From Shoebox's diagram it looks like I would check pin 9, but what would I look for?

 

The 8th digit is the code for the engine. If it's an LT1 the 8th digit is “P”.

http://shbox.com/1/vin_engine_id.jpg

 

It worked! Not sure exactly what did it but my reader now says it connected and told me I have no trouble codes. First thing I did was disconnect the wires going out to the PCM side of things and spray more electrical cleaner in them and blow them out. Then I discovered I was using the incorrect cable on the code reader. There are 2 different cable marked as GM OBD1 with 16-pin connector and I had the wrong one. I figured I would have some codes but reader says not. Now I'll just put the new injectors in when I get them see what happens.

This weekend is new front calipers, tighten up all brake lines and bleed them in pre for pulling it into the driveway when it starts.