To VATS or not to VATS
#1
To VATS or not to VATS
I'm finishing up the wiring on my '48 Chevy street rod/Z28. It's a '48 chevy body that I have updated with the complete drive train from a '95 Z28. I'm using the donor car wiring harness. I want to have all the remote unlock, express up/down windows. etc. work so I have kept all the PCM, RAP and VATS modules. Now I'm wondering if it makes sense to bypass the VATS system to make it easier to start and get a spare key made. I have the factory manual and it looks like I can just bypass the system and make it think the correct key is in the switch. Any thought on this?
Thanks
Walt
Thanks
Walt
#3
Re: To VATS or not to VATS
Don't know what you mean, but after doing some more research here I found I can completely bypass the system by removing the relay, or really connecting 2 of the wires in the relay. I think I'll wire in a "secret" switch under the dash that I can switch off to disable everything so it won't start. To many criminals in the world now.
#4
Re: To VATS or not to VATS
Bypassing the theft deterrent relay (TDR) only eliminates 1/2 of the PASS-Key II system. The theft deterrent module (TDM) reads the key resistance, and in addition to completing the TDR circuit, sends a "fuel enable" signal to the PCM. PCM will not activate the injectors without that signal. You can eliminate the "fuel enable" signal problem by 1) buying a "VATS PASS-Key Bypass Module", or 2) having the need for the "fuel enable" signal programmed out of the PCM.
http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html
http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html
#5
Re: To VATS or not to VATS
went to my local locksmith to get some door locks re-keyed so they match and they can make me a new key with the pellet in it so I think I'll just keep the entire VATS system hooked up. I'm already a little nervous about having taken so many wires out of the harness. i.e. SIR, anti-lock brakes, Bose relays, etc.
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