alright well about a year ago my passenger motor started dying. typical symptoms of burning out on the way up. it will stop, i wait a minute, it goes more. so i did the thermal bypass. worked great until about a month ago it started doing the same thing. so i said alright, its done. i replaced it. worked fine for about a day or two. then one time i rolled it down and it never went back up. i took it out and it was a goner. no up nor down. so i went back to my friends parts store where i got it and got another under defect.

i recently did the express down mod, so i thought maybe that shorted or something and got stuck down, which burned the switch and the replacement motor. so i yanked that out, put the wires all back where they should be.

so i put the new one in, and it only works going down. it will roll down, but wont go back up. i gotta take the motor out and push the window back up.

now whats really weird, is pushing the passenger side button down, it goes down. but that same button it wont work up. on the drivers side, the button for the passenger window wont work up nor down!

so i assume since the motor works fine when it goes down, it must be something with the switch, so i replaced the switch. nothing. on the passenger side switch there are two brown wires, so i thought maybe they were backwards. i switched them and my whole dash shorts out as soon as i touch them. so i knew they were right the first time. i tried putting the express down module back and get it all where it was before, and that didnt change anything.


i wanna say its the motor again, because i had no problems until i replaced the motor, but that seems hard to believe. at this point it sounds to me like its a freak wiring issue somewhere, and i have a test light and some background on electical diagnosis, but i dont know where to start. anyone shed some light?

 

ttt

 

What brand motor? Did you get one of those cheap Chinese rebuilt motors? Many of the cores do not get fully refurbished, only the broken parts replaced.

 

its a rebuilt delco.

i suspected a cheap rebuild, but why wont the drivers button work in neither direction? its gotta be something with the wiring to the passenger button...

 

Have you checked voltage to the switch and to the motor? I believe that 11 volts or below (if memory serves me right) indicates a bad part. Have you checked the circuit breaker for the PW? That is all I can think of off the top of my head, electrical is my weak spot.

 

mine too. the fuse for the windows is fine, and the drivers window works fine. i have a test light and know how to test whether its the switch or not, i just dont know which wires are what.

 

I was having a problem with my driver's side motor on my Monte Carlo Z34. It would roll up part way & stop. I could wait a few seconds & it would go up some more. I was ready to have it looked at when I had my battery checked. It was only putting out 11.something volts. When I replaced it, my window problems went away! If you have an old battery, or not, get it checked out. That might be your problem.

 

http://shbox.com/1/pwr_window_schematic.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/window_motor_switches.jpg

 

did you even read my whole post? thats not even my problem. thanks tho.

oh hell yes. damn shoe you always come to the rescue. lemme go test the stuff now...

 

[QUOTE=NoRiceInside;4534891]did you even read my whole post? thats not even my problem. thanks tho.

Oh, sorry man, my bad...

 

its cool i appreciate the help tho.

alright well i spent the last two hours trying to figure this out...here are my findings

based on the diagram, the LT BLU and TAN wires send the signal to the RH switch. when i push the LH button down neither wires have power. when i push the button up, however, both DO have power, and the window motor jerks down for a split second. so right there i suspect something is wrong with that switch, because i would imagine one should have power for up, and the other should for down, and obviously the motor shouldnt go down when i press up.

now when i go over to the RH switch things seem normal. the BRN (A) wire on terminal (A) which is the power wire is always live so thats good. then the two wires that go from the switch to the motor, DK BLU and BRN (C) are kinda ok. the DK BLU wire is only powered when i press the button up and then the BRN (C) wire is powered when i press down, however its also powered when i press up, so that kinda confuses me. then the TAN wire that goes to the LH switch has power when i press up.

i tested each wire at both ends and i get the same, so i know i have no breaks nor any shorts in my wiring, its something with either my switches or the new motor.

 

ttt

 

werd. fixed.

well i did more testing with my test light. i concentrated on the switches. determined a problem with the drivers side switch, called the dealer and they were open for another half hour. they had it in stock and BAM. fixed my problem.

 

How do you do that? My window motor failed, and my window is down about 2 inches or so, and I can't get it back up. I plan on buying a new motor for it soon, but I would like to try to get it up temporarily until that happens. Perhaps bypassing this would let it work for a while so I could get it up?

I tried search shbox's site, but couldn't find it on there (maybe I overlooked it). Also, I wonder if I could use this: http://shbox.com/1/adj_window.html to move the window up until I can replace the motor... or is that bad idea?

 

Do a simple search for "thermal bypass" in this forum. It's not on my website. You won't be able to make adjustments that will get you 2 inches.