Title says it all. I need to remove the radio cowling, and maybe the dash facing as well. You can cause or end the short by a fist strike under the radio, from the left OR the right side. Maybe I can live without the radio, but the problem includes the power windows, which always quit working anytime the radio quits. I did not install the radio, so I start from square one. How can I remove the plastic radio cowling, without breaking any clips or fasteners? How can I remove the plastic dash facing, just behind the radio cowling? I barely have enough wire slack to remover the radio from the dash, so I need to remove the plastics.

Electrical problems like this can be the pits: three hours to find the problem, and three minutes to fix it. Thanks for any help.

 

Let's move this question to a 4th Gen forum. The 6th Gen forums are dead, and I don't think you intended to post it there..

Both the radio and the power windows are powered through the retained accessory power (RAP) module, which is part of the body control module (BCM). The BCM is notorious for this problem, and usually can be repaired with careful soldering of one of the printed circuit boards. I don't know the details, but it has been covered here.

[EDIT] I asked someone who knows the details to help out

[PS] Don't start taking the dash apart. The BCM is on the passenger side, under the dash, and appears to be accessible without tearing much of anything apart, except the plastic "insulator" panel under the dash..

 

Here is my procedure. Let me know if you need help. No need to access the radio/ac panel. You will need to be able to re-solder a few connections on the printed circuit board. Not very difficult, get a friend to help if you don't have the tools. Difficult parts are, (1) unplugging the BCM connectors if you don't first remove the kick/trim panel, and (2) getting the BCM back up into or out of it's holder.

http://www.mediafire.com/file/4zpyj6...epair.pdf/file

 

Fred, Gary,

Thanks, it seems like my problem is not new (which I hoped would be true). I will check the condition of the BCM, first thing. I would have no problem with repairing the circuit board, as long as I can remove and replace it without causing any Static damage.

Thanks again.

 

The factory service manual instruction for removal has only 3=steps - 1) disconnect battery, 2) remove the passenger side insulator. This is the simple, flexible plastic panel under the dash, above the passengers lower legs/feet. In my experience, absolutely impossible to damage. 3) remove BCM from bracket.

Gary's linked procedure is as clear as it gets, with photos.

If you want more detailed info, diagrams, sketches for locations, connector info, download the factory service manual, courtesy of GaryDoug:

https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

 

If anybody has a spare BCM (good or bad), or the Part Number of that Circuit Card, or a link to the supply source, that would be most helpful here. Even my NAPA guy has tried and failed.

Thanks.

 

Why are you needng to replace it?

 

Why do you need to replace it?

https://www.ebay.com/i/372394605844?chn=ps

The number is the code for the ignition key (1 of 15). Saves the making of a new key if you order one to match your key.

 

Gary,

No need, really,except I was hoping to remove and replace the bad board with a good one, instead of tying up the repair bay of a friend, while I solder. Circuit board repair is my specialty, but I was not expecting the circuit board to be keyed to my ignition key. I would need to know more than I do, for that to work now. Still, I'm game for the chase. Can you tell me what I need to know here? This is the kind of information that I can't get from the usual sources, and only comes from the forums.

 

It only takes 2 minutes to do the repair. Touch the iron to the pad and let it melt. Add a small amount of solder if needed. Do that 5 times. Sooner or later you will need to do it somewhere on this car. Buy a cheap soldering iron for $10 if necessary. Cheaper than another BCM and far more informative.
https://www.harborfreight.com/30-wat...ron-69060.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/Lead-F...der-69378.html

Here is how to determine your key code using an Ohmmeter.
4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles

 

Injuneer,
Gary Doug,
& everybody helping,

Gotta say, thank you for that good help. The pix were great, here. You guys saved me from a ton of useless efforts.

I got the BCM circuit board out, and the cracked solder joints were obvious, once I knew where to look. Easy fix, from there onward.

I saved a hard copy of everything, for future reference. Thanks again!

 

You are very welcome. We really hate to see any fellow member spend more effort or money than absolutely necessary.

 

Glad it worked out. Thanks for closing this out, and for the positive feedback.