I don't come to this site often, you can tell from the date I finally decided to register and the # of posts since then...
I usually hang out on ls1.com and have posted some mods I have done to my car on that site. I am posting this to share with you. I copied and pasted the directions to 3 mods you might like.
Dynomouth cat-back:
Get ahold of a Dynomax Race Bullet muffler, part # 24222, around $35. If you like, now is the time to get a set of exhaust tips you like, otherwise you can keep the stock tips. Go to your friendly neighborhood exhaust shop and tell them to put the bullet muffler in the I-pipe just in front of the rear axle, then tell them to eliminate the stock muffler and put a piece of pipe in it's place connecting both tailpipes together so you retain the dual exhaust tips. That's all there is to it. When I did it it cost me $140... shipped & installed. Since then folks have asked me about it and done it, I have seen folks get it done start to finish for as little as $100 or as much as $250. The constant is pretty much the muffler. Labor cost is what can make or break the price... shop around and negotiate. The link is a recording of Brian Davis' car after this mod (StealthStalkerLS1 on LS1.com). The idea for the mod is to closely emmulate the SLP Loudmouth, without being quite as loud and much less expensive. Both objectives are accomplished with flying colors. The name Dynomouth was coined by a member on LS1.com (SupermanSS) who was one of the 1st to trust me and perform the mod on his vehicle. "Dyno" from the Dynomax bullet and "mouth" for it's similarity to the Loudmouth.
http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/ja...omouthDem1.WMV

[The following info is really 2 mods, they can be done together or separately to meet your goals.]

I have been asking around about this for some time and no one seems to have a way to do it. I had my car apart a couple of months ago figuring out what each wire does and I altered the wiring slightly. Now my fogs come on with park lamps, low beams, and now high beams. The function is totally the same... the switch lights, it is still backlit, and turns the fogs on and off as before. I also did a very easy mod that puts all 4 headlights on with the high beams.
So now I can run 4 headlights and the fogs at once!
The foglamp mod: (on with high beams if you so choose):
Going into the back of the fog switch there is a green wire, cut it. Insulate the car side as it will no longer will be needed and does go hot when the high beams are on. Add a little wire to the switch side of the green wire and ground under one of the radio mount bolts. Put the switch and radio trim back together. You're done inside the car. Go under the hood, pull up the relay box with the fan and fog relays in it. Going into the bottom of the fog relay is the same green wire, cut it. Extend the relay side about 8" with black wire and ground it. I used the ground screw right next to the relay box, on the strut tower. Insulate the car side of the cut wire as it goes hot with the high beams. Put everything back together and you are done.
Easy 4 light high beam free mod:
4 screws under the drivers side dash allows access under the steering column. Look down the left side of the steering column and there is a white switch with a brown plug and 2 black tabs. Squeeze black tabs and pull the connector off. Make a connection between the large tan wire and the large yellow wire and put everything back together... Important: I used an inline fuse housing, flat fuse housing type, to connect the tan and yellow wires as instructed. They are available at Wal-Mart (or about anywhere), with a 30 amp fuse. That's what I used, just for safety.
Any questions feel free to contact me.
Dave
Edit: I must say that the electrical stuff might not work on a Pontiac... I have no idea.
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• Dynomouth Exhaust!
• My 1998 M6
• Mesh Grille
• 71-74 Emblems
• Clear Corners
• My New Home Page
• mn55927@citlink.net

[This message has been edited by ratio411 (edited July 15, 2002).]

 

3t?

 

Those are some cool ideas. It sounds like you took the time to be a little different than everyone else. Can you tell me how you made did your mesh grille inserts? I'm planning to do something very similar to my car. Thanks!

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2002 Sunset Orange M6 Z28
MTI clear lid, Holley filter, SLP bellows
FRA, Magnaflow cat-back, BMR SFC's & STB

Pic: http://members.fbody.com/ryuhei/pics/usa_Z28.jpg

 

Damn Fbody.com won't host pics anymore...
The mesh in my grille is just aluminum gutter gaurd. Got it at a hardware store, it keeps leaves out of your gutters. It comes in strips... approx. 8" wide x 4' long. One strip could do several cars, but I cut mine a few times test fitting it and making it perfect, so it took one whole strip.
The 'bad' part about this mod is that the front facia, bumper cover, has to come off. It's not as bad as it seems, just time consuming. With the facia off I painted the indents in the styrofoam bumper... the indents behind the mesh, because they will be visible. Some black paint takes care of that. Then the mesh can be put into the indents and the sharp edges pierce the foam and actually hold the mesh in place. While you have the facia off get some clear corners, this is by far the easiest time to get the turn signals out of the facia. When you put the facia back on, the mesh is firmly sandwiched between the foam and plastic... it's not going anywhere.
Hope this helps.
Dave

 

How did you install the clear lights?

 

Unplug the wires from the headlamp bulbs
Dead center back of the headlamp housing is a 10mm bolt. Just one. Remove it.
Slide the housing towards the nose of the car.
The headlamp housing will now come right out of the car. Carefully set aside.
Look down into the large gaping hole left behind, the corner lamps are right there with plenty of room to work on them.
If memory serves, it's been awhile, there are 3 small bolts holding them in.
Put it all back together in reverse order.
Good luck
Dave

 

there is a guy in my club (BADRAP) he has that same exhaust. i will be doing it shortly also. thanks for the video of it, it made me want to do it that much faster!


Question!

i have a 1998 B4C camaro. what size is my I pipe? i want to step up to 3 in if i dont alreday have it.

 

2.75" I-pipe. Not much difference than a 3". The factory pipes are mandrel bent stainless. If you decide to have a 3" pipe installed, make sure it is mandrel bent or it will flow less than the 2.75".
Jegs sells a DynoMax I-pipe. It is 3" and mandrel bent. Last I heard it is around $50. It is also listed as "special order". If you just call Jegs and ask for it, they will tell you that there is no such thing. You have to press the issue and tell them that they list it as special order. It is in 2 pieces, I don't know if they come together or not, the listing on it is confusing and could be read to mean either way.
No matter if you use the stock pipe or a 3" pipe, the 3" bullet works just fine.
Good luck
Dave

 

I did the grill mod per ratio411. Great idea, custom look all for about $1.45. YOu have to understand, without patch work you can still see 4 tabs where the facia attached. Ratio 422 had his filled and painted. I just leave mine exposed.

 

Yeah, I left my grille slots exposed for about a year. It is a little annoying that they are there, not terrible. Just one of those things that you notice more than anyone else. I placed in a couple of shows before I had the holes filled, so it must not have bothered other folks.
The only reason mine ever got filled was that a kid was nice enough to have his insurance company buy me a new nose for my car after he backed into me...
I had the body shop fill the holes before they painted the new nose.
There is a trick if you fill yours: You must use flexible body filler. The nose and the paint are flexible, if the filler is not, it will crack and/or fall out quickly.
Dave

 

i see they have a 12" and a 18" one. you state you use teh 12", but how would the sound change if you had the 18"?

tone?

decibles?

raspines?

 

I have cats, so I would guess a long bullet would make the car slightly quieter... I don't really know. I have wondered the same thing. I wouldn't try it on my car though, the short bullet is just right for me. Mellow, yet screams when I want it to. Rasp is nill when you have cats.
The only reason I suggest a long bullet is if you don't have cats. You need the extra length to tame the sound a little. No cats with a long bullet is slightly louder than a short bullet with cats... if that makes any sense. The long bullet w/o cats also has a minor amount of rasp not found when using cats.
If an ORP is your goal, you need the long bullet. Tally TransAm (Ryan), a friend on LS1.com has this exact set-up and can go into more detail on it if those are your intentions. He's a good guy and welcomes questions.
Dave

 

so what you are saying is the 12" is more tame than the SLP loud mouth?

i am really interested in this dyno mouth exhaust, primaraliy becuase of the low cost.

i dont like the SLP loud mouth, its too loud. so if you are saying it is quiter than that, then i should be OK.

if you see him, can you ask him is opinion on the 18" for me? id appreciate it.

i pick my B4C up on Monday and am ready to do MODS!

thanks,
Corey R.

 

The shorty is more tame than the LM.
The long bullet is used when you don't have cats.
On my website, page 2, I have a couple of links to sound clips with the shorty and cats.
Dave

 

Yo I'm about to install the bullet muffler, but I have a few questions. How does your car idle? And how does it feels at low rpms? I also heard of a few people just taking off the muffler and it sounding great.