I am the proud new owner of a 2001 T/A ws6 M6. This is my first Ls1. It is stock as far as i can tell. The power seems pretty good but not as good as what some other owners are claiming in these forums. Obviously it can smoke the tires with a clutch dump - but from a roll - no clutch just punch it it will not spin them - it can get a good bark on second gear- none in third yet - I know the previous owner ran only 87 octane - I have switched to premium and have disconnected the battery to reset the computer and have been running it pretty hard- I heard doing this will retrain the computer for more timing and performance. It does idle a little rough - oil pressure is at 40 at idle - gets up to around 60 when driving - I am thinking a plug and fuel filter change may be in order then get it to a dyno- - possibly some top end cleaner - It does have some 40 wide Kumho's- which i suppose are better grip tiresand maybe why it does not break loose as much - it has 51k on it. Any suggestions or thoughts or am i just being paranoid.
Thanks
Scott

 

Tune it up and change the fluids. I'd bet you still have the original plugs in it.
Which Kumho's do you have?

BTW, don't worry about not spinning your tires its just wasted energy.

 

also, look for suspension mods under the car. if the stock stuff is gone, the car is gonna hook likely. i think the fuel filter and a clean air filter will help also.

 

Maybe some injector cleaner will help with the roughness along with the spark plugs and fuel filter. Oh and clean your MAF (carefully spray off the little wires with some electrical contact cleaner, be careful not to break any of the wires in there or you'll be buying a new one)

Like said above if the road is clean and dry and you jamb it in the middle of first and it hooks, that's a good thing.

 

"It does have some 40 wide Kumho's"

psst...

the 40 in the tire size (275/40/17) refers to the sidewall height or i beleive it's called the aspect ratio (40= .40)...not width of the tire. the first number is that.

although a bigger sidewall...say 50 or 60...will inherently have more flex when put under load...which is better for launch traction...think of wrinkle wall slicks.

just some random info

 

Just to elaborate
275= millimeters wide at the carcass
40= aspect ratio = 40% of that width (in this case 275) is the height of the tire from the rim to the road
17= inches of wheel height

So 2 times the aspect ratio times the width, convert to inches, plus the wheel height = the overall tire height.

 

the LS1's are wild man, i thought the same thing about mine because i test drove MANY a LT1 before buying mine. I noticed that the 0-40 mph torque or speed didnt quite feel the same and it seemed that it didnt break the tires loose as easily. the LS1's have a better front to rear weight ratio, maybe that has a bit to do with it? But even then, MY car pulls on almost every car i've raced thats got the same mods i do, some even with headers (LT1's LS1's big turbo'd rice'ers)

 

The tires aren't going to break loose on a first gear punch unless you've got $h!t tires or it's bellow 40* out and the road is really smooth or covered in salt (ask me how I know ). As for driving it hard so it retains a better tune...that's b.s. The car will learn fuel ratios based on normal cruising as it tries to retain a 14.63AFR. Once you floor it, it's in open loop and ignores the O2 sensor feedback. In other words, it's making a calculated guess about fueling while targeting the programmed AFR (which in stock form is a rich 11.4~11.7AFR). The timing side of it depends on two spark tables (high and low) and a "scaler" that adjusts timing between the two. If the knock sensors detect ping/detonation/knock, timing will be retarded at that moment and the scaler will move towards the low table temporarily. This is a safety net of sorts incase you get a bad tank of gas or decide to run 87 octane. The scaler eventually makes its way back to the high table until it encounters knock retard again. If no knock retard is reported, it'll stay with the high table. Make sense? Didn't think you were going to get a tuning lesson, did ya? Basically, what it boils down to is keep up the maintenance on the car and it'll perform mid-to-low 13's for you all day long at the track (assuming you know how to drive)....AND don't always believe the b.s. people talk about these cars. There are a few who know...but there are many who don't.

 

You are correct to think fresh plugs are in order, did mine at ~ 50k, felt like it picked up 30 hp. Monster gaps on 1/2 of the plugs due to missing pucks on ground electrodes. Pucks on electrodes = stupidest idea AC ever had.

 

Thanks for the input guys,
I found a local speed shop thats going to do some tuneup work on it and then i am goiong to get it dynoed.

 

mines got 80k miles, i cleaned off the maf, about to do new plugs/wires. any other suggestions? brand suggestions?

 

man i would never spend the money to have a shop do the plugs. they aren't that hard to get to, only the passenger rear 2.

save the money and do it yourself.

as for brands

ngk tr55 plugs $2 each
taylor spiro-pro wires $50

 

ok thanks for the advice. i did a search for those in different threads and they seem to be everyone's favorite.

 

I see a few folks talking about cleaning the AF sensor? Will this hurt anything, i know they are very expensive lil pieces of equipment. What exactly do you clean when doing this?

 

wow this thread makes me feel good for the good ole LT1, I can liquidate my 315's in my LT1 in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd, no clutch dump required