Some time ago I did the mods listed in sig, the weather was still cool and I had no problems. When it got warmer I started to notice detonation at WOT above 4000 rpm or so. Knowing that the IAT mod advances timing I pulled it out, problem went away. Now it has gotten hot and the problem is back. If it was an old car I would just loosen the distributor and back off some timing, but as you know I can't do that. I have researched and found out that apparently sometimes after you put an aftermarket MAF in this problem will occur. How can I back off timing? Will a hypertech programmer alow that. What if I put in a cooler thermostat and fan switch? If anybody has any info on this I would appreciate it. Thanx
Ottis

------------------
2001 Pontiac Trans Am WS-6 #2832
Automatic, 3.23 gears bright red
Mods
LS1 motorsports lid, SLPMAF 85mm, BBK 80mm Throttlebody, SLP intake air temp module, Holley power shot filter, and Throttle Body coolant bypass.
Best et 13.131 @ 105.61 w/ a 1.995 60 ft on stock tires.
Best ET 13.6@102.19 Bone Stock
Maintaned cobra tag on it
Va. "Z20 WUT"

 

Get a MAFT, then you can tune for the heat.

------------------
2002 Camaro SS #3586 6M Sebring Silver, T-top, Billet Grille, Hurst shifter, !CAGS, Whisper CF Lid, Holly PowerShot filter, Corsa Catback w/full polish tips, 160 Thermo, SLP fan switch, ASR reverser, TA axle cover w/stud kit, MAFT, NX wet kit(150)purge,heater,remote opener, FPSS,MSD WS, Autometer gages, Hotchkis STB, LCA's, APHR.

Baseline Dyno: 317.9RWHP 335.9RWTQ with MAF ends only: 325.6RWHP 350RWTQ. (Stock)1st 1/4 mile 13.46 @106.9 2.23-60'
new best 13.306 @107.89 2.12 60'
http://members.***.net/sscargo/Camaro.htm
4-sale MAF ends....now using N20 so need to ditch them.

 

I imagine you still have your stock maf , put it in and see if the retard goes away. I have heard that the after market mafs cause this problem especially on A4 cars. I have the ends only (did myself) and they work great, no problems as you can see form my numbers in the sig.

------------------
99 SS, Dark Metallic Blue, M6
SLP lid, KN, TBB, SLP Y-pipe, SLP loudmouth
ported MAFs, Nitto 315 DRs
Currently: 1/4 13.06@113.8 (gtech runs high in mph by about 4mph), 0-60 4.77 (w/passenger) Gtech'd
12.99@110.2, 2.06 60ft - Tazzo.

 

Yup ... messing with the MAF without a translator is probably going to cause detonation eventually.

To answer your question about Hypertech, no ... it will not solve your problem. It will actually make it worse since one of the ways it increases performance is by advancing timing.

As was said before ... OEM MAF or get a MAFT



------------------
2001 TransAm WS6, M6 3.42
HPP, TBB, 160* t-stat, MTI Lid, Holley PowerShot, Flowmaster 80, Port/Polish MAF

www.BlackWS6.com

2001 Z28
-- R.I.P. - 06/25/02

 

Hey where in the heck can I get one of those MAF ranslators? the best deal you got would be helpfull (you know how much things cost these days!) Thanks

------------------
2000 SS
White w/black
cloth, M6, SLP
Air Box Lid,
!CAGS, 160 thermostat, K&N, Cold Air Induction, Fan Control Switch, SLP MAF, Smooth Bellows, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust
MORE TO COME!!
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/rcecooker

 

You can get one at ramchargers. Anyway, I posted this thread and was curious, did the SLP MAF cause a lean condition in my car? Cause from my old school knowledge going rich will not cause detonation only lean. Or does the SLP MAF also cause a change in the timing advance?

 

HA, I just posted about this exact same problem, and then saw your post! I've got the same problem, but I still have my OEM MAF, albiet de-screened. I'll be looking for answers.

 

First of all get rid of the air module. It actaully bumps your time up by thinking that the air is cooler. If you like the module and want your car to run better anyways do the thermostat mod or buy a 160 degree from hypertech. I had my car on the dyno at kenny brown and it was doing the same thing. It dynoed at 290 rwhp but the technician told me if I can get it to quit detonating it should be about 305 rwhp. Since then I have installed the 160 degree stat and the hpp3 programming with no detonation. The car runs alot better now. On a 90 degree day 2 weeks ago with tire spin I ran a 13.65. I also had an rk sport air temperature module which I got rid of on e-bay.