It does a lot more than the Hypertech but I think the price difference is more like $100-125 unless you've found a really good deal. Regardless, I'd still go with the Predator. I wouldn't even consider buying a Hypertech to be honest, even if they sold for $100 because IMO that's just a waste of my 100 bucks. However, some people do get good results with the Hypertech but I didn't (on my '96) and I wouldn't be willing to take a chance that I'd get the same poor results on my '02.
I did pick up a Predator from DS last week and I installed the tuning but I haven't had a chance to get any track results yet, hopefully I'll be able to in a couple weeks. The car does feel a little stronger so I'm hoping a see some improvement in my times.

The Predator has quite a few advantages over the Hypertech, whether or not it's worth the price difference is up to you. IMO, it is but this is all just my opinion.

 

Glad to see some guys getting this, but as I said earlier they do not need tro leave us 98 LS1 owners out. They are allot of us so they need to get this done.

Viper

 

Viper, I'll tell you which one to get buddy

Then again, I don't want to seem biased here, but...

LoL

 

Well it looks like i have no choice but to keep my HPP3 since you guys want make one for the 98's.......... Get on the ball, lots of 98 owners that would buy this.

Viper

 

I'll go with the predator. My dads friend who has a 67 Shelby Cobra Replica w/ Winston Nascar 350, bad azz ride 500 hp or so to the wheels @ 7000, can get me some dyno runs for a good price. Im gonna dyno my car stock, w/ borla catback, then w/ borla catback and predator.


jp

 

Now, I want to show dynographs of my friends 2001 Camaro SS 6-speed that I personally tested w/ a "beta" version of the Predator several weeks ago. All runs were done w/in 5 min. of one another, and all the conditions were the exact same. So you will know, the temps that day inside the facility were a whopping 99.15 degrees on run 1, and 100.61 on run 10. Pressure was 29.97 and 29.96 respectively, and the CF was 1.02 on both runs. These #'s are NOT skewed in anyway, as they are completely accurate and true. All runs are SAE, which is noted on the side column, and the runs, and they were done in 4th gear (1:1).







Sure, there is some work to be done in the upper rpms from 5k to 6k, but if you notice the Predator runs are also following the factory curves as well. If I want to try and lean the car out some and get it more flatter/higher across the that range it's going to require some minor tweaking w/ a custom program. Who's to say that the car would make more power, though? It's a matter of testing, and I was out of time that day (was already there for nearly 2 hours and my friend had to leave).

The SS was stock save for a lid. It still had the factory air filter (which, btw, the car made less than 1 hp when removing it, further lending credit to the belief that the factory filter is not that restrictive at this hp level).

Now, w/ that being said, let's remember something here; getting down the track or street quicker, is more than just about raw power. It's also about getting your shifting perfected. With that being said, even if you make 300 rwhp, how will you get that to transfer to the ground correctly w/out making sure that you're shifting at the best area under the curve. For you auto guys, does your tranny shift at 6000 to 6100 from the factory? How about the process of the gear change? How slow is that from the factory? The slower it is, the longer it takes to fully engage the next gear. Quickening this up will also help to reduce wear and tear on the transmission. How about the pressure? How soft is it? How about Torque Management? Just with torque management you could go slower, yet you'll still make the power.

In reality, it's more than just raw power. It's also effectively transferring that power to the ground, from optimizing the other important areas of the whole package.

 

I think I am about to buy the predator, but I have heard if you want updates that it will cost money to DL?? Is this true and what kind of updates are we talking about?? Custom ones or just plain updates to fix things or add things?? If I am spending 400 bucks I really don't want to have to pay for updates all the time.

 

The updates to the unit itself for improved operating software will be free, and *some* custom programming will carry a charge. These charges are based on what you desire changed, and by what all is required in doing it. It is also up to the individual dealer to work w/ that customer in setting a price point. I treat every individual on a case by case basis, and I will never ever gouge them or rip them off.

Hope this helps

 

I'm sold I'll will be getting one in about two weeks. I'm guessing all the wires for the updates will be supplied?